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Reverse gear install modification
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Reverse gear install modification
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michla
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Joined: January 17, 2003
Photos: 9
Location: Wasilla, AK (yes, there's drag racing up here !)
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Reverse gear install modification Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 12:25 am     Views: 100      Rating: Not rated

I had to remove my reverse gear from the shaft to install the Berg GB PRO1050 pinion nut--the *flange* is of larger diameter and sits behind the reverse gear when installed, but unless the reverse gear shaft assembly is out before installing the pinion nut (not possible if you're installed the gear carrier), you'll have to find a way to install the reverse gear circlip compressing the belville (curved washer). The washer is critical because it keeps the gear from working off the reverse gear due to thrust loads and popping the circlip off (something about compensating loads by forcing the circlip against the shaft groove shoulder just enough to compensate). And advancing the pinion bearing nut a little at a time isn't an option if you don't want to gall up your pinion bearing bore--it has to be heated/expanded and the gear carrier insertion into the case has to be quick before it cools.

I mig-welded a stud to the shaft being very careful not to "overweld the edge and diff is out and pinion and mainshaft covered while welding so welding splatter doesn't stick (can ruin a ring & pinion). Parts must be clean for good weld--use lacquer thinner to remove oils. Tack weld stud at first so you can move it to center, spin the reverse gear by hand observing how close to rotating center with the shaft correcting by pushing the stud to rotate on center then finish-weld carefully not to overheat shaft. Stud is 8 X 1.25 X 32mm length, at least grade 8 (many engine studs are grade 8). You don't want to use a stud any longer so as to not interfere with the rotating differential.

I used a short thick wall (sturdy) collar I found in my junk parts with a 22mm or .870 inside diameter with a slit cut out just wide enough for the circlip tangs to stick out. The collar compresses the belville (curved) washer enough to get the circlip in the groove using a heavy-duty thick flat washer at the other end of the collar and nut tighened just enough to compress the belville washer (not too much--you could break off the stud!)

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