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Wed Apr 09, 2008 3:38 pm

Is there some way we can organize a group buy on these? Maybe try to get some sort of discount to buy ten or so.

Thu Apr 10, 2008 6:04 am

Not trying to tip the boat here, but what do you guys think about the following thoughts from Gene Berg?

http://www.geneberg.com/cat.php?cPath=5_115_2733

Here is Gene's solution.....

You will have to get this on your own as my Linux will not let me copy and past links, and there are some characters in this one I cannot easily duplicate. At any rate, what I am looking at are his OIL TEMPERATURE DIPSTICKS. It seems like a great price and a product that works better than the original design which the VW engineers deemed sufficient.

Thu Apr 10, 2008 6:14 am

The Berg dipstick beats nothing, but not by much. IMO

Thu Apr 10, 2008 6:19 am

TheTominator wrote: Not trying to tip the boat here, but what do you guys think about the following thoughts from Gene Berg?

http://www.geneberg.com/cat.php?cPath=5_115_2733

Here is Gene's solution.....

You will have to get this on your own as my Linux will not let me copy and past links, and there are some characters in this one I cannot easily duplicate. At any rate, what I am looking at are his OIL TEMPERATURE DIPSTICKS. It seems like a great price and a product that works better than the original design which the VW engineers deemed sufficient.

Berg temp dip stick is the best money I have ever spent. Get one!

Thu Apr 10, 2008 7:01 am

I have a VDO CHT gauge and the 12" thermocouple with 14mm ring and a 2-prong connector.

Questions:
1) Can I use any style wire between this connector and the gauge?
2) If so, where can I locate the mate to this connector.
3) If I have to use this "intermediate" wire VDO#240 701 (15' intermediate wire) will it come with the connector?
4) Who carries the #240 701 intermediate wire if I have to use it?

Thanks,
Roy

Thu Apr 10, 2008 7:18 am

1FUNBUG wrote: TheTominator wrote: Not trying to tip the boat here, but what do you guys think about the following thoughts from Gene Berg?

http://www.geneberg.com/cat.php?cPath=5_115_2733

Here is Gene's solution.....

You will have to get this on your own as my Linux will not let me copy and past links, and there are some characters in this one I cannot easily duplicate. At any rate, what I am looking at are his OIL TEMPERATURE DIPSTICKS. It seems like a great price and a product that works better than the original design which the VW engineers deemed sufficient.

Berg temp dip stick is the best money I have ever spent. Get one!

I used one for about 4 or 5 years before installing a VDO oil temp gauge. The problem I found was that the grounding tab was subject to turbulence fluctuations. When shifting from 3rd gear to 4th gear, I would sometimes see the oil light start to flicker (it never came on solid). After pulling over and checking the oil (it wasn't hot, and engine wasn't overheating), I'd carry on.

Also, it wouldn't flicker in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd. If your oil was too hot, the tab should ground out in any gear, and light up the oil warning light steadily - but mine wouldn't. It would only do it in fourth gear. I guess it was a combination of RPM, fan speed, intake air turbulence (and possibly vibration), which made it do that.

Thu Apr 10, 2008 3:02 pm

Here is a chart that might clarify what is a safe CHT. Looking at the graph, about 400F looks like a more reasonable limit than Pratt and Whitney's red zone. GM did set the Corvair CHT warning light for 450F.

I just bought this to monitor my engine.

Sat Apr 19, 2008 6:16 pm

nikita wrote: Here is a chart that might clarify what is a safe CHT. Looking at the graph, about 400F looks like a more reasonable limit than Pratt and Whitney's red zone. GM did set the Corvair CHT warning light for 450F.

I just bought this to monitor my engine.

Keep us updated on how it goes!

Fri Apr 25, 2008 10:24 am

Has anyone had any problems with the sender coming out or becoming damaged when replacing sparkplugs? Even using Scotts very good method?

I guess I am concerned about having to pull the emgine to get to the head if it mucks up when chaing the plugs? Or doing a compression test etc.

Fri Apr 25, 2008 11:06 am

I'm also concerned about this because I didn't get to put the notch in the head before installing. I know that my sender is in bad shape, and its only been out twice. I'm not sure there's any way around it. I will end up just buying a new one every few years i guess.

Fri Apr 25, 2008 11:08 am

I just did this last week.

I used my handy dremel tool to do the notch in the cylinder head. I went to Lowes and bought a carbide straight cutting bit (for "hardened metal") and a non-carbide bit (for "soft metal) that has a little ball shaped cutter on the end of it to do the work.

Went great and I was done in about 30 minutes.

Suggestions:

Mark the notch location with a sharpie.
Put a cork, fuel hose or something where the spark plug goes.
Put some white lithium grease around the cork, then squirt oil in there also.
I used my shop vacuum to suck out the filings numerous times and then refilled the grease and oil.
I used a "trim clip" for a bus door to hold the wire to the head (rounded it off on the bench grinder but the dremel would do it also) and a grommet to protect the wire as it goes through the cooling sheetmetal.

Tougher to do with the engine in the car would be my guess.

Fri Apr 25, 2008 11:20 am

Brown_Bus wrote: Has anyone had any problems with the sender coming out or becoming damaged when replacing sparkplugs? Even using Scotts very good method?

I guess I am concerned about having to pull the emgine to get to the head if it mucks up when chaing the plugs? Or doing a compression test etc.

I have a Dakota Digital CHT but I followed Scott’s instructions when I notched out my #3. Put the engine in recently and have had the spark plugs in and out and have had little to no troubles lining the sensor up with the spark plug. Just gently twist the plug in by hand until you feel it catch then tighten it down. If it doesn’t line up, #3 plug is close to the top of the tin so just reach down there and line it up with your finger!! Good luck!! :D

Fri Apr 25, 2008 11:25 am

coo coo ka choo!!!
Thanks The Walrus!

Fri Apr 25, 2008 12:00 pm

Brown_Bus wrote: coo coo ka choo!!!
Thanks The Walrus!

At least someone got it!! :lol: No problem....glad I could help!!

Fri Apr 25, 2008 12:04 pm

I'd like to know how much interest there would be if we could get our hands on a gauge like this, but in a dual CHT.

Since the type 4 engines don't have the #3-is-hotter-by-far syndrome, I think it makes sense to monitor both heads.

I like analog gauges. If we could have:

a) Two 270 degree sweep CHT dials, mounted side by side
b) A 2 1/16” mounting hole with no flange/bolts around the perimeter of the bezel.
c) A temperature range starting at 100 or 150F going up to 500 or 550F for lots of mid-range resolution.
d) A user-settable warning LED.
e) Cold-junction compensation.

How many would want it, and how much would you pay?

Part 2: same question, but if it did not have e) ?

Thanks,
Jim

Fri Apr 25, 2008 12:15 pm

grandfatherjim wrote:
Part 2: same question, but if it did not have e) ?

I wouldn't want it period if it did not have cold junction compensation.

Fri Apr 25, 2008 1:00 pm

I realize lots of people want that, including me. It does make me wonder why they use non-CJC models on aircraft though.
Jim

Wed May 14, 2008 12:28 pm

Randy, did you put the notch in the head without pulling it? Or was the engine out for some other reason? I just bought a new ring terminal and I'm thinking of trying to dremel it in through the tin.

Wed May 14, 2008 12:30 pm

I have the new engine on the bench still and did it there w/o the tinwork. It would be "doable" with the 3/4 side top tin off.

Wed May 14, 2008 12:35 pm

You could go for this: