TheSamba.com :: View topic

Thu May 15, 2008 11:01 pm

1621,

That was the site I was talking about. I was leaning toward the good stuff but I'm not opposed to saving money when possible. I do agree with you though, I don't want problems later. Unless I get some really positive feedback about the roofing materials I will most likely do the Raammat.

Thanks for the info!!

Monte

Fri May 16, 2008 12:44 am

I've got the roofing stuff in my doka. Let's give it a summer to see what happens. I have it on vertical panels as well as on the floor.

No problems yet, but the hot weather in this part of the country just started.

Mon May 19, 2008 9:03 am

a couple of notes on this from my research....

toxicity: since some roofing products are made only for use in non-habitable areas (and the warnings on the larger roll material called bituthene are positively TERRIFYING), i requested the MSDS for peel-n-seal from the manufacturer. it had very low toxicity ratings, related to the very slight offgassing that the asphalt it's made with gives off. however, it turns out that several companies manufacture stuff under the same name of peel-n-seal, so other versions may be worse.

vertical surfaces: turns out that a few people have had asphalt-based products gradually creep down vertical surfaces in hot temps. where it's inside a door, in some cases it gradually got to the point where it stuck to the window when rolled down, and made a mess that's hard to get out of the door and off the window & mechanism. the butyl rubber products (most newer sound dampeners) are rated for higher temps.

Thu May 29, 2008 6:29 pm

A cheaper and supposedly just as good alternative to Dynamat is FatMat. 50 square feet is $80 and 100 Square feet goes for $130. This is the route I am going with when the bigger projects are done with.

http://www.fatmat.com

Mon Jul 28, 2008 7:30 am

Great stuff,
Does any one have a good estimate of material needed in doing the interior with tape and the sound deadening paint? I too think I am going gto steer clear of the roofing tape as well, cheaper yes, but not worth the future pontential damage. :twisted:

Mon Jul 28, 2008 7:38 am

I did the front cab area of my Westy using Frost King duct insulation that I bought from Lowe's. I ended up using around three rolls of the stuff. Honestly I not sure that I would do the same thing again. While the road noise is reduced it is far from quiet while I'm driving. I could probably make some more improvements by doing the same thing in the galley area and added an undercoating but its a little hard to say exactly how much of an improvement it would be. Basically the job is just a pain and I'm not sure it is worth the time investment.

Once I deal with my kitchen seam rust then I'll go ahead and insulate the rest of the cabin and I'll post an update. Overall though I've been a little disappointed by the improvements considering the time required to do the job.

Mon Jul 28, 2008 7:38 am

Read this before you do:

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

Mon Jul 28, 2008 2:43 pm

MrPolak wrote: Read this before you do:

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

Yeah, definately worth reading.

eta. damping. face!

Mon Jul 28, 2008 3:17 pm

I've been thinking about sound deadening for a long time. The only reason I have resisted ripping out all the interior and dropping big cash on Dynamat (or any other brand) is the un-removable nature of the stuff. The last thing I want is a layer of asphalt glued to the top of metal panels that could rust, dent or bend in the future. If I need to repair a panel because or rust or an accident what do I do about the perma-layer of gunk? I'd be a lot more excited about a removable mat or something like that.