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Tue May 24, 2005 5:11 pm

Just got my first bug a little over a week ago and I'm going to change the oil. Don't have a bentley manual yet since I don't have very much money left, so just asking what the torque specs are for the drain plug and the bolts for the plate that hold the oil screen. Thanks!

Tue May 24, 2005 5:38 pm

I believe they are 7 ft/lbs.

Tue May 24, 2005 5:55 pm

The acorn nuts are 5ft-lbs and the center drain is 25ft-lbs

Tue May 24, 2005 6:00 pm

Is it bad to undertorque the center bolt? I doubt it, and it still dosen't leak oil even though I only tightened it down to 7ft/lbs.

Tue May 24, 2005 7:06 pm

Tight is tight....too tight is broken!

Tue May 24, 2005 7:07 pm

snug on the center is fine. If it drips... make it tighter.

Wed May 29, 2019 11:08 pm

Travis wrote: Is it bad to undertorque the center bolt? I doubt it, and it still dosen't leak oil even though I only tightened it down to 7ft/lbs.

Glenn wrote: snug on the center is fine. If it drips... make it tighter.

I usually drain taking the 6 acorn nuts off. This time I drained from the center first then pulled the screen, (less of a mess) which always seems to be a waste of time for my driving habits, because it’s always clean after 1000 or so miles.( 6 months to a year always happens before 3000 miles.)

Now, I torqued the center to 24 ft/lb with a new crush washer. It seemed tighter than I would’ve expected, but 7 ft/lb seems like you could maybe run the risk of losing the oil. Which is correct? Do you harm the studs in the case by putting torque on that center bolt when tightening it down?

Thu May 30, 2019 7:01 am

Here is a reference for various torque values. It shows 25 Lb Ft for the oil drain plug.

https://www.thegoldenbug.com/en/vw_technical_articles/d115/beetle_torque_specs_1970_1979

Thu May 30, 2019 7:07 am

Herby wrote: Just got my first bug a little over a week ago and I'm going to change the oil. ....just asking what the torque specs are for the drain plug and the bolts for the plate that hold the oil screen. Thanks!

If you really have "bolts" there, consider changing to correct studs and acorn nuts (cap nuts). And if you're going to torque those, consider a 1/4" drive torque wrench, like the ones that go on sale at Harbor freight for $10. And I personally have never torqued the drain plug, just nees to crush the copper washer.

Doesn't hurt to check the new copper drain plug washer and six copper seals with a magnet either !!! Some can be just copper-plated !!!

Thu May 30, 2019 8:42 am

I have the studs. Used the wrong terminology. I torqued it to 24 ft/lb. I thought that was correct. Hopefully I didn’t put torque on those case studs and loosen them.

Thu May 30, 2019 8:49 am

My Bentley specifies 5 ft-lb for the cap nuts. I don't think a ft-lb torque wrench is that generally accurate in the low end of the range so I use a Snap On in-lb torque wrench set to 60 in-lb. Threads in case are soft and easy to pull out. 60 in-lb has never had any leaks for me. Make sure that the flange surface on the drain cover is flat or this will cause a leak. Tighten them in a star pattern.

Thu May 30, 2019 8:56 am

I’m talking about the center drain plug. I know the acorn nuts are 5 ft/lb. I thought the center was 25 ft/lb. by using the center plug are you putting lateral stress on the studs? I used a torque wrench to 24 ft/lb and am hoping I didn’t ruin anything. Is it best to drain by taking the whole plate down? I o our drained from the center because it’s less messy.

Thu May 30, 2019 9:09 am

Frodge wrote: I’m talking about the center drain plug. I know the acorn nuts are 5 ft/lb. I thought the center was 25 ft/lb. by using the center plug are you putting lateral stress on the studs? I used a torque wrench to 24 ft/lb and am hoping I didn’t ruin anything. Is it best to drain by taking the whole plate down? I o our drained from the center because it’s less messy.

It is recommended to clean the sump plate and screen each oil change. You may open the drain first, then remove the plate once oil is drained. Sludge tends to collect on the plate and screen areas, and should be cleaned per the factory. I have added some magnets on the plate, under the screen, these pick up ferrous bits of metal, a good idea seeing as the Bugs lack a real oil filter.

So clean the screen and sump each oil change!

Note that the sump must use leak proof acorn nuts, and soft copper washers under each acorn nut, not steel washers, not copper plated steel either (some vendors have supplied copper plated steel washers, they dont seal well, too hard, the fakes are found with a magnet.)

Bug On! Oil On!

Thu May 30, 2019 9:12 am

I did clean it. I’m asking about torquing the center plug to 24 ft/lb puts unnecessary lateral stress on the studs in the case. Im Hoping that doing it this one time did not loosen the studs in the case.

Thu May 30, 2019 9:15 am

Frodge wrote: I did clean it. I’m asking about torquing the center plug to 24 ft/lb puts unnecessary lateral stress on the studs in the case. Im Hoping that doing it this one time did not loosen the studs in the case.

It shouldn't affect them unless they are already messed up.

I've never had any issues with the studs from properly torquing down the center drain plug.

Thu May 30, 2019 9:19 am

I torqued it to 24 ft/lbs. I did it a little less then specified. How in fact do these get messed up? If not from using the center bolt?

Thu May 30, 2019 9:32 am

The stock VW plate is pretty heavy and I don't see how it could deflect enough to pull on the studs, especially at the recommended torque. After market plates are not nearly as heavy so maybe this could be a factor.

Thu May 30, 2019 12:09 pm

Don’t think it would be a problem either. Using a torque wrench on the drain plug is not a bad idea. It will give you an idea of what “snugged up” means as that can be somewhat subjective. I would guess that many VW oil changes are done without a torque wrench. As far as 24 or 25 pounds torque, no big deal. Torque wrench variance could easily account for that. Don’t worry about an exact value on that.
Certainly on the outer studs, over tightening can be a problem. Sometimes a stud will pull right of the case. No big deal. Just thread it back in. Sometimes the threads in the case get messed up but they can be repaired by retapping oversize.

When you have completed the oil change, just run the engine for a few minutes with a clean piece of cardboard or newspaper underneath to check for leaks. An oil change is pretty simple but certainly very important and vital for engine life.

Thu May 30, 2019 12:14 pm

Pretty sure VW made this progressive refinement of deleting the center drain plug because mechanics were not cleaning the screens. So delete that and you are forced to remove the six cap nuts. I don’t find it to be any more messy if you loosen, then remove the nuts then slightly loosen last one, dislodge the seal and drain it into pan, viola no mess, if you are allergic to oil wear gloves. When you get the cover off and cleaned lay a straight edge across the holes and straighten if needed. The get bent because people over torque. :oops:

Thu May 30, 2019 12:14 pm

In case you missed this...
Glenn wrote: snug on the center is fine. If it drips... make it tighter.