TheSamba.com :: View topic - Buggy floor material, fuel tank, and other options

Mon Aug 01, 2005 3:14 pm

Going sometime this week to buy a sheet of metal for the floor of my rail buggy project. Just curious as to what some of the folks here have used. I am debating between diamond tread aluminum, and regular old sheet metal. I know that sheet metal will probably be half the cost, but I'll never have to worry about diamond tread rusting, plus it will look better, too.

Also, what thickness, or gauge, is commonly used for either material? The aluminum will need to be thicker, right?

Concerning fuel tanks, I've decided on an 11 gallon aluminum tank (10"x33" IIRC) from CIP1. I am wondering how these are vented? Seperate vent tube, or vented gas cap?

Wiring harnesses. I've seen them in the same CIP1 catalog for around $50, and others on eBay for around $35-$40. Anyone with any experience dealing with either of these kits? I just figured it would be worth the extra bit of money to have all the wires and fusebox there, instead of piecing it all together. Going to use the 9" gauge panel box for the gauges and fusebox, too. I guess I'll need to figure out some way of making it water resistant.

What did you use for the turn signal switch assembly? Factory setup from the Bug, or the universal ones found in the catalogs?

I think that's all for now. I'll probably come up with a million more questions before I'm done with it, though :lol:

Mon Aug 01, 2005 3:19 pm

OldsCool wrote: Concerning fuel tanks, I've decided on an 11 gallon aluminum tank (10"x33" IIRC) from CIP1. I am wondering how these are vented? Seperate vent tube, or vented gas cap?
vented gas cap

OldsCool wrote: What did you use for the turn signal switch assembly? Factory setup from the Bug, or the universal ones found in the catalogs?
universal one is pretty easy to wire into a system since it includes a wiring diagram and tells you everything else you would need

Tue Aug 02, 2005 6:04 am

Wiring is best "not using kit" Use circuit breakers and wire it from scratch.
Every one tries to use to heavy material on the floor. They well get dinged and the thick stuff is hard or impossible to straighten. We use metal that can be cut with large tin snips. You want it to absorbed the impact not transfer it on to frame members. Bolt it in and leave a gap all around the edge so sand and water can get out. Under the motor and 6 to 10 inches behind the front end will get the most abuse. We use buzzers instead of gauges and keep the wiring simple. Brake light switch can be in "T" close to Battery. When you decide how many wires you need to run front to back, add several more before tying up the loom. There is always a need for one or 2 more wires later on. Vic. See -> Wiring Information "Basic How To" <> http://www.1800vw.bizhosting.com/buggywiring.htm

Tue Aug 02, 2005 11:42 am

AMEN! Build a wiring harness of your own.

On my buggy, I used a 3 position toggle switch and a 2 pole flasher for my turn sigs. Yeah, I've forgotten it several times but then I just look like 2/3 of the population of Florida driving around with my turn sig on. I try not to let it bother me. Also used simple toggle switches for headlights, parking lights and hi beams. No relays at all.

And yes, I pulled 3 extra wires to the back and I wound up using every one of them for stuff I forgot. I plan to remove the body over the winter months and I will build yet another wiring harness and yet again, I'll pull extras.

Good Luck,
<><
TC

Tue Aug 02, 2005 12:43 pm

The single Cleanest wiring diagragm I've seen is Earl Duty's "How to Build a Dune Buggy" it's the book that Larry's Offroad Pimps all day long.

Best thing is that they color code for you... and they also split the front... rear and engine wiring.

don't use the BugCrap "buggy harness" it bites... I'll rip the one out of my homo-fiberglass (Shmo started it) and send it to you.... it bites!!!!

Great book... should be required reading.

Tue Aug 02, 2005 5:26 pm

Yeah, I've got that book. It's some good reading! I bought my floor material today. I just bought a 4x8 sheet of 12 gauge to do it. I won't be getting ridiculous with the buggy as far as abuse goes. I've already been down that road with an XJ Cherokee. I beat that thing half to death before I sold it. The buggy will be a street/mild trail deal. Thanks for the replies! :D

Tue Aug 02, 2005 9:13 pm

Remember your metal vendor can do a better cut with their tools.. most times it's worth the $5 to bring back the plate.

>T