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Tue Aug 23, 2005 10:50 am

I started this some time ago, but kind of let it lag. I think I was up to about 50 pages of the 134. Anyway, I started working on it again last night (back injury is keeping me from doing much "upright" work these days).

Eventually it will be linked at the "Techwerks" section at zarwerks.com. I am also doing a 25hp intake manifold page, showing all the different types/details etc.

For now, you can preview the work so far at:

http://zarwerks.com/zaradmin/45partsmanual/

I paid a fortune for this book, and figured I might share it online. Check out the "original scan" of the torn up front cover. I use Ulead's PhotoImpact and did a lot of "touching up" of the original scan.

More later....

Tue Aug 23, 2005 11:59 am

WOW! Thanks for the info 8)

Tue Aug 23, 2005 1:28 pm

This is a treasure! Excellent work with the touching up of the cover, John.

So the '45 engine did not have any kind of a thermostat? The "Sommer" and "Winter" L-handle off the fan shroud came shortly afterwards, I suppose?

How was your drive back from Terryville in your Oval? Had a chance to "race" Mr. Craig in his red OKRASA split? :D

Roland from NY

Tue Aug 23, 2005 4:08 pm

I let John lead the way home, he had the oval humming down the hills. I would easily catch up on the hills, but I was nice and kept behind.
It was a white knuckle drive through Hartford and the twisting highway at top speed. The split's don't handle as good as ovals IMO, I think most of the problem is the skinny 16" stock bias ply's. Once I get some modern tires on it, the handling should be much improved.

-Craig

Tue Aug 23, 2005 4:46 pm

Quote: but I was nice and kept behind

Yeah, yeah yeah. :)

Yeah, that Hartford run is pretty hairy. Sunday morning it is easy (except for the 5 vehicle accident we ran into that morning, stopped us cold for 30-40 mins) but afternoon it is a different story. Between the hard corners, cracked up pavement and all those other cars... it is quite the "run" In those conditions, the oval handling isn't all that much better than the split. I just pray I never have to jack the wheel at speed.

Was a nice day, good drive...... even if it was just in my "daily driver" Oval........ :lol:

Thu Aug 25, 2005 8:33 am

Craig and John, instead of driving thru Hartford on I-84, how about heading west to Rt 8 from Rt 6/Terryville, going south to Waterbury, then I-84 east, to I-684 to Meriden and then I-91 north? Puts you on the east side of Hartford. Good highway all the way (except just east of Waterbury) and if it takes 10 more minutes than going "your" way, you do not go thru lots of towns.

Craig, excellent work on your Split! Do you know the "fan belt" trick to prop open the bottom of the decklid for more cooling air during highway driving?

Mon Aug 29, 2005 6:28 pm

I will have to try that route next time. So what is the fan belt trick? I could use a little more cool air on those warm days.

-Craig

Tue Aug 30, 2005 7:13 am

Open the decklid. Take your fan belt and loop it under the rear bumper at the center of the blade, making a "U" so that the forward end of the belt loop which is at the front end of the bumper blade is 'lower" than the loop extending up at the rear of the bumper. More like a "J". Take the rear loop, thread it thru the front loop and hold it up with one hand. Now take that loop, bring the decklid down with your other hand, and feed the upper end of the blet loop into the decklid lock's hook on the underside of the decklid. Finally, carefully lower the decklid as far as possible then LOCK the handle so that the decklid lock hook pulls the fan belt "tight".

Make sense?

This method works for stock Beetle decklids to '64 which use the "T" handle.

Tue Aug 30, 2005 9:48 am

So wouldn't the engine run hotter that way since you took the belt off the engine to do his and the fan is not spinning??

:lol:

Tue Aug 30, 2005 6:27 pm

Rome wrote: Open the decklid. Take your fan belt and loop it under the rear bumper at the center of the blade, making a "U" so that the forward end of the belt loop which is at the front end of the bumper blade is 'lower" than the loop extending up at the rear of the bumper. More like a "J". Take the rear loop, thread it thru the front loop and hold it up with one hand. Now take that loop, bring the decklid down with your other hand, and feed the upper end of the blet loop into the decklid lock's hook on the underside of the decklid. Finally, carefully lower the decklid as far as possible then LOCK the handle so that the decklid lock hook pulls the fan belt "tight".

Make sense?

This method works for stock Beetle decklids to '64 which use the "T" handle. Well written!

Wed Aug 31, 2005 6:45 am

Just FYI on the '45 manual, I'm up to page 116 of about 140. I have not been updating the site that I posted the URL too, I will wait until I get it all coded and then link it directly from the Zarwerks site.

JH

Wed Aug 31, 2005 9:33 am

splitdog, thanks. It took alot longer to plan and write the procedure than to actually fit the belt.

And for that wiseguy John, this would be done with the SPARE fanbelt that every type 1 should always have on board. Obviously can be done with an about 2 1/2 foot section of rope or electrical wire too, once you tie it into a loop.

Thu Sep 01, 2005 7:23 pm

Ok, the '45 Parts Manual is finally all done. It is NOT at the link I posted earlier in this thread, go to zarwerks.com and click on the "Techwerks" section.

Cool stuff in that manual, look at the speedo diagram and the right angle gear drive system in the spindle. Anyone have one of those?

Also notice you could buy individual seat springs...

New at zarwerks.com is a COLOR wiring diag. I didn't colorize it, and quite frankly forgot who did. Someone at kabriolett.com did it and told me I could use at zarwerks.com. Very nice, if you know who did it, please speak up, I'd like to give him credit for his work.

Also, a pic on the K manifold resto page showing the cross section differences between the original heat riser tubes and the ones I make. Here's the pic:

So no surprise that those tubes didn't last the first 8 years or so of the cars use, huh? My tubes are the same outiside diameter, but much thicker. They will not "rot off" on you!!

Fri Sep 02, 2005 12:47 pm

Rome wrote: Open the decklid. Take your fan belt and loop it under the rear bumper at the center of the blade, making a "U" so that the forward end of the belt loop which is at the front end of the bumper blade is 'lower" than the loop extending up at the rear of the bumper. More like a "J". Take the rear loop, thread it thru the front loop and hold it up with one hand. Now take that loop, bring the decklid down with your other hand, and feed the upper end of the blet loop into the decklid lock's hook on the underside of the decklid. Finally, carefully lower the decklid as far as possible then LOCK the handle so that the decklid lock hook pulls the fan belt "tight".

Make sense?

This method works for stock Beetle decklids to '64 which use the "T" handle.

That is so old School......The "Inch Pincher" ran that way before the stand offs. :wink: