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Tue Nov 18, 2008 9:15 pm

takotruckin wrote: the specs i have on the turbo

Compressor Trim: 60
Compressor housing A/R: .60
Turbine housing A/R: .63

Not too bad. Should hit like a slap in the face around 3000 or so rpm.

Tue Nov 18, 2008 9:22 pm

Rockwood wrote: takotruckin wrote: the specs i have on the turbo

Compressor Trim: 60
Compressor housing A/R: .60
Turbine housing A/R: .63

Not too bad. Should hit like a slap in the face around 3000 or so rpm.

Thanks, thats what I'm hoping for. I'm thinking the high compression will keep the bottom end useful, and then the turbo should make 'er sing up high. And the turbo was free, can't beat that.

Thu Nov 20, 2008 12:12 pm

You'll probably get boost well before 3000 RPMs

I have (dont' drive anymore though) a mustang with a turbo 2.3 swap. Its got a T4/T3 hybrid with a stage 3 turbine shaft and .63 housing. It would get into boost about 3200 RPM's

Now, your motor is a bit smaller, but its got higher compression, higher specific output (more HP/liter), smaller turbine shaft and compressor, same housing. You also have a better header design than I had (I built a log with the intentions of driving it everyday and not wanting cracks).

You should see boost by 2500 RPM I'd venture to say.

Sun Jan 11, 2009 8:42 pm

updates!!

Adapter is on order from Kennedy, hoping to have it in the next couple of weeks.

before:

After:

And it doesn't even hang down as much!

So far, I'm already thrilled with the new motor, and it's not even bolted up yet! (is that a bad thing) I was sitting in the drivers seat trying to think of what a boosted focus would sound like spinning 7k so i knew what engine sounds to make :lol:

And the rad is definately going in the parcel tray, no turning back now

[/quote]

Sun Jan 11, 2009 10:52 pm

Nice! Can't wait to see it again.

Mon Jan 12, 2009 2:47 pm

AnmlMthrM60 wrote: Nice! Can't wait to see it again.

...with a skid plate! LOL

Mon Jan 12, 2009 5:51 pm

pepsi and sunflower seeds?

Mon Jan 12, 2009 6:45 pm

bajaherbie wrote: pepsi and sunflower seeds?

and corn dogs :wink: the lunch of champions :D

Mon Jan 12, 2009 6:46 pm

dustymojave wrote: AnmlMthrM60 wrote: Nice! Can't wait to see it again.

...with a skid plate! LOL

I already acquired some Aluminuiminum for it.

Mon Jan 12, 2009 10:07 pm

Takotruckin, where can I find rear fenders like the ones you have? Are they the same as the racing ones on mooreparts? They look really nice. Oh, and congrats on the engine! :D

Mon Jan 12, 2009 10:12 pm

vaderoni wrote: Takotruckin, where can I find rear fenders like the ones you have? Are they the same as the racing ones on mooreparts? They look really nice. Oh, and congrats on the engine! :D

That's what they look like. They looked the same as mine when I saw them. And I have the one's from Moore Parts.

Mon Jan 12, 2009 11:00 pm

yep, high mounts, same as moore sells

Mon Jan 12, 2009 11:39 pm

Thank you! :D

Tue Jan 13, 2009 8:29 am

what kind of welder are you using. Wire feed, tig

Tue Jan 13, 2009 11:10 am

Florida_Buggy wrote: You'll probably get boost well before 3000 RPMs

I have (dont' drive anymore though) a mustang with a turbo 2.3 swap. Its got a T4/T3 hybrid with a stage 3 turbine shaft and .63 housing. It would get into boost about 3200 RPM's

Now, your motor is a bit smaller, but its got higher compression, higher specific output (more HP/liter), smaller turbine shaft and compressor, same housing. You also have a better header design than I had (I built a log with the intentions of driving it everyday and not wanting cracks).

You should see boost by 2500 RPM I'd venture to say.

Compression ratio only helps off boost power, doesn't make the car spool up any faster. I think he's running a log as well, right? You're right on the smaller turbine shaft and compressor helping.

Either way, I'm basing this off a friend who has a turbo Focus with almost the same turbo, hits around 3000 rpm.

Looking good Tako! Amazing how much smaller that motor is... You'd think an inline-4 would be shorter than a V6, but that's probably becuase it's a FWD motor...

Tue Jan 13, 2009 1:31 pm

I'm definitely going to keep a close watch on your build. If I blow up the 2276 I have, the Ford Duratec is the one I have my eye on. I guess the GM Ecotec would be cheaper, but I just can't get past the idea of using a GM engine.

How long is the Duratec (wondering if if will fit in my existing engine cage)? How much lower is the oilpan than the bottom of the trans? I'd love to go with a Subaru, but they hang too low for my taste. I hear that the Ecotec doesn't hang any lower than a VW engine, so I'm wondering how this is. Maybe the Ranger pan is not as deep. I should just measure the one in my truck.

--Tim

Tue Jan 13, 2009 6:36 pm

Bajabro wrote: what kind of welder are you using. Wire feed, tig

All the steel welding was done with a wire feed. The intake was tig welded by a friend.

I can't remember off hand how long the engine is, but I can measure it next weekend.

The V6 had the water pump and accessories sticking out pretty far from the block, I think that's where some length was really dropped.

Sun Jan 18, 2009 9:02 pm

Haha, Plasma Cutter:1 OG German Sheet Metal:0 :lol:

-----------------------------------
I did a bunch of thinking, got the girlfriend to hold the radiator in place for a while, and then did some more thinking.. I decided to lean the radiator back slightly, rather than way forward, in hopes of fitting a 3rd seat in the back of the baja. It will still pull some air from underneath, and i may make some rubber flaps to assist. But i have also decided to use some scoops to get air from the sides, I'm gonna make some scoops to go in place of the factory "vents" behind the quarter glass, hopefully the ram air effect will keep the fans from running much while cruising.

I got the frame for the radiator built and skinned, which was easier said than done...

The sheet metal on the sides is welded to the car, but the two panels on the frame for the radiator are removeable for access, and the whole frame is removable in case it needs taken out for some reason.

I still need to do a little more grinding, as well as build a cover for the trans.

Sun Feb 15, 2009 8:12 pm

While looking for towbar mounting ideas i discovered that harbor freight had their universal bar on sale for $59, i figured i would spend almost 40 making one, so i went ahead and bought it, came with mounts that i welded to the bumper.

pictures...

Before:

After:

The hood even opens without hitting the lights, just barely :)

The lower tubes are welded to the bottom of the outer beam clamps, a skid plate will be added and cover all the way to the lowest part on the front of the car, ready to slide over whatever might be in the way. See that Jeff, i'm already planning ahead for my next SCB trip :wink:

Does anyone else think the tow bar is too long? I know my stinger in the hitch is long, but i also think the bar itself is a little long.

Sun Feb 15, 2009 11:51 pm

You sure that truck can handle the stress of towing that thing? :D

Question: do you lock the front wheels, or let them run free? I've never flat towed anything...