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Tue Jul 29, 2008 5:03 am

Desertbusman wrote:
Don't think a overflowing float bowl would have anything to do with the inlet fitting and the hose connected to it. Sounds more like the notorious loose inlet fitting in the bowl cover.

I'd think that with a float valve stuck open the overflow would go down the barrel and flood out the engine. And it wouldn't continue to sit there and idle.

on that, i agree with Desertbusman..... a flooding carb should keep the fuel contained to the inside of the intake system and just stall the car...

Sat Aug 23, 2008 7:25 pm

Another bug fire hazard story. A friend of mine bought his first bug back in his college days. He took his girlfriend out for a fun date and ended up parking in a dark field. He moved both seats up and they climbed onto the back seat. How shall I say this....ah....the up and down motion on the seat made the battery terminals come into contact with the rear seat metal springs. They both smelled smoke in the heat of their passion and continued. The fire got their attention and they did a fast egress while grabbing their clothes. His beautiful bug torched in front of their very eyes as they got dressed. What is the moral of the story? Grab the extinguisher AND your clothes on the way out. True story.

Wed Aug 27, 2008 12:59 pm

I could see that not being funny at the time, but funny now.

Wed Aug 27, 2008 1:11 pm

FL450 wrote: They both smelled smoke in the heat of their passion and continued.

Everyone thinks they are the world's greatest lovers. It's the only explanation why you would smell smoke and keep going. :D

Fri Oct 03, 2008 3:30 pm

Recently acquired this bug to restore. Not for the faint of heart...you've been warned.

so far so good:

yeow!

speedometer needle melted into a little dairy queen curly q...hope I can keep it like that after some new glass in the speedo

Don't look back...or wait...can't look back.

Some hot tunes coming out of that radio there...

horsehair seat padding acted just like tinder:

BTW, no one got hurt in this fire fortunately. The driver did have 2 kids in the back seat, one panicked and froze up and was pulled out of the car, the other got tangled in the seatbelt, the guy had a leatherman or something and cut the belt...but it was a close call.

At this point I'm just cleaning out the ashes & glass...what a mess!
Hoping to get this back to a daily driver soon...body, pans and engine & tranny are in really good shape.

Sun Oct 05, 2008 4:57 pm

jwold, carefully check for metal stress as heat will weaken the structure.

Mon Oct 06, 2008 3:55 pm

Thanks clonezero,

I will. Everything feels pretty solid, when I get to it, I will check the horn mounts (I think that's what they're called) I'm pretty sure the tranny mounts are due for replacement. I have another thread going about the gap. The great thing about the internet is all the information and feedback you receive...especially with regard to hobby things like this. It's a double edged sword though as sometimes the info is conflicting.

Fri Oct 10, 2008 12:14 pm

Kelley wrote: Glenn wrote: I just found another quality filter. This one has 1/4" fittings so it will fit on the stock 5.5mm fuel line. It's got a steel can and filters down to 10 microns. It's for a Toro lawn tractor, so you'll have to get it at the local lawn equipment store.

Glenn, which model lawn tractor? I'm having some difficulty tracking the filter down by the part number listed on it. Look at all the ones listed here - http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=toro_consumer&mh=8

i was given this bug been sitting since 96 look at the filter

Sun Oct 19, 2008 9:47 am

6volt wrote: [quote=
i was given this bug been sitting since 96 look at the filter

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To hell with the filter, lookit the nut on the generator pulley.

This doesn't have the signature of the typical gasoline-fed engine fire.

Is that melted plastic or aluminum? (Aluminum melts at 1320F)

-Bob Hoover

Mon Oct 20, 2008 8:49 pm

I don't think that engine had a fire in it...

So what is the carb made of? It seemed to melt into nothing, though there were parts of it left in the bottom of the engine though that looked un-melted...the little arm, the choke stair-step looking part, a butterfly valve. The distributor on mine is no longer circular but a little more ovaled, I was thinking I could refurbish that till I determined it wasn't perfectly round anymore.

Air filter canister wasn't melted at all.

Wed Oct 22, 2008 10:11 pm

jwold wrote: I don't think that engine had a fire in it...
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I agree.

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So what is the carb made of?
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'White Casting Metal' is the generic name. Often called 'pot metal' because of the casting method, in which the metal is kept at casting temperture in a large pot, from which it is poured into the molds.

A specific alloy is 'Kirksite.' It is an alloy of aluminum and zinc, with traces of tin and other metals. It's strength is about the same as cast iron. Thermally, it is very stable, which makes it an excellent choice for die-casting and permanent molds.

If you reload your own ammunition you will find some alloys used for rifle loads include a certain percentage of pot metal. This hardens the lead and allows you to use a higher velocity load.

Very useful stuff.
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Air filter canister wasn't melted at all.

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That's because it is steel. The plastic jobbie was not yet introduced.

-Bob Hoover

Sun Oct 26, 2008 1:00 pm

its a pine needle in spider webb and 2 leafs I cranked it up and it runs fine

Sun Oct 26, 2008 5:11 pm

Glenn wrote: Here's a simple idea.

That is a very good idea. I had that nipple come out on my 69 bug back in the early nineties and caught the car on fire. I still have the scars trying to put it out. :shock: A new carb and replaced some wires and I was back on the road.

Sun Oct 26, 2008 7:29 pm

jwold wrote:

...body, pans and engine & tranny are in really good shape.

:lol:

Mon Oct 27, 2008 4:54 am

Except for all that melted and rusty metal...

Perhaps I'm a bit too optimistic!

Mon Oct 27, 2008 5:24 pm

what a fuck, poor beetle, we neeed wery carefully in the fuel themes , one exit of fuel in the engine is dead for the beetle sometimes. lucky whith this beetle.

Thu Nov 13, 2008 7:51 am

ah, I found a good way to make sure the fire starts. I know this is an early beetle but the principle still stands

take a look at the left side by cyl 3-4. not the best place to store your spare oil.

Thu Nov 13, 2008 8:00 am

Herrschildkrote wrote:

take a look at the left side by cyl 3-4. not the best place to store your spare oil.

not a concern.... in a beetle we ride with a fuel tank almost in our lap with a fusebox and a bowl of spaghetti for wiring all around it... I've be more concerned with that than the quart of oil sitting next to the engine...

Mon Nov 17, 2008 10:15 pm

So my dad and i did an overhaul on my 70 when i was 16(14 when i got this car), 2 weeks after it was finished i was leaving the school parking lot and didnt make it to the main road! My fuel filter was next to the choke wire, which shorted out and caught it on fire...fire extinguisher was at home! All i could do was watch it, i froze , if i had opened the lid and threw my shirt on it or something i think i could have put it out. new 1914 and a re-paint of the rear end and i got it the car back , i got lucky and one of my future teachers ran up with a fire extinguisher and saved my bug. When the fire dept got there they felt the need to throw a hand full of sand onto my engine, i wish they hadnt. Then on top of this embarrasing thing, the school advisers were total douches and didnt want to wait an hour or two for my dad to bring the tow bar...no way i was paying $200 for a tow truck to tear up the front of the car too. Im 20 now and still drive it everyday.
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Tue Nov 18, 2008 8:48 pm

Anyone know if there are any potentially negative ramifications of installing a 3-4 psi electric pump under the fuel tank other than accessibility? I am planning on using steel braided aircraft fuel lines with fittings from tank to carbs (as I have ready access to them) and installing a relay that will operate the pump and open the cutoff valve that will be directly under the tank, (pre-pump), when energized and allow the valve to close when power is removed for positive fuel control in the event of fire.