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Fri Feb 11, 2011 11:32 pm

The only good thing about the German braided hose is it's the correct size (5.5mm).

All the aftermarket stuff people buy is usually 1/4" which is 6.3mm which is why it's a crap fit.

I don't like braided stuff cos the rubber is only thin single wall, quality aftermarket stuff is double wall and reinforced but one of the worst problems is you cant tell when it's perished because of the cloth braiding till the braid soaks in fuel.

Sat Feb 12, 2011 10:40 am

Joel wrote: one of the worst problems is you cant tell when it's perished because of the cloth braiding till the braid soaks in fuel.

yep....

Sat Feb 12, 2011 12:18 pm

On the other hand, it's inexpensive. Just replace it all once a year.

Max

Sat Feb 12, 2011 1:52 pm

vw_hank wrote:
next is my Bob Hover inspired pass throw, to git the fuel line throw the tin.

I don't like this. It creates many more places for the system to fail and leak. I would rather use as much steel line as possible. Steel doesn't dry out and rot and is harder to get cut. You make a pass-through our of hollow threaded rod lamp parts to get it through the shroud.

Safety wire on fuel filters however is a good idea, but if you put it under the tank it isn't a big deal if it leaks.

Sat Feb 12, 2011 2:12 pm

Lettuce wrote: You make a pass-through our of hollow threaded rod lamp parts to get it through the shroud.

Sat Feb 12, 2011 4:12 pm

Joel wrote:
I don't like braided stuff cos the rubber is only thin single wall, quality aftermarket stuff is double wall and reinforced but one of the worst problems is you cant tell when it's perished because of the cloth braiding till the braid soaks in fuel.
huh? that's exactly the point. yes, the cloth braiding becomes moist with fuel once the hose has perished. if you have a rubber hose without the cloth braiding, and it goes bad, it will spray a fine mist of fuel everywhere- and most likely cause an engine fire in the process. the cloth braiding prevents fuel from spraying everywhere, and instead you end up with damp cloth. seems like a rather good safety feature to me.

Sat Feb 12, 2011 4:33 pm

Max Welton wrote: On the other hand, it's inexpensive. Just replace it all once a year.

Max

That's the logical thing to do but you're talking about Volkswagen owners who are on record as being the biggest bunch of tightarses known to automobile ownership.

The point I was trying to make is most people would see that their fuel hose is perishing long before it ruptures when it's not hidden beneath cloth braiding.

If they don't then it's their own stupid fault their car burns to the ground.

Sat Feb 12, 2011 5:35 pm

Lettuce wrote: vw_hank wrote:
next is my Bob Hover inspired pass throw, to git the fuel line throw the tin.

I don't like this. It creates many more places for the system to fail and leak. I would rather use as much steel line as possible. Steel doesn't dry out and rot and is harder to get cut. You make a pass-through our of hollow threaded rod lamp parts to get it through the shroud.

Safety wire on fuel filters however is a good idea, but if you put it under the tank it isn't a big deal if it leaks.
Glenn wrote: Lettuce wrote: You make a pass-through our of hollow threaded rod lamp parts to get it through the shroud.

Yes, I'm familiar with Bobs design, thats were I got the idea years ago, But I like mine,,

Sat Feb 12, 2011 5:45 pm

The difference is your way to have two hose connections which could leak or fail. Bob's way you use the factory hard line but it prevents the sheetmetal from cutting int the steel line.

Sat Feb 12, 2011 6:57 pm

Both are miles better than that grommet.

Max

Sun Feb 13, 2011 5:01 pm

torsionbar wrote: Joel wrote:
I don't like braided stuff cos the rubber is only thin single wall, quality aftermarket stuff is double wall and reinforced but one of the worst problems is you cant tell when it's perished because of the cloth braiding till the braid soaks in fuel.
huh? that's exactly the point. yes, the cloth braiding becomes moist with fuel once the hose has perished. if you have a rubber hose without the cloth braiding, and it goes bad, it will spray a fine mist of fuel everywhere- and most likely cause an engine fire in the process. the cloth braiding prevents fuel from spraying everywhere, and instead you end up with damp cloth. seems like a rather good safety feature to me.

the braided fuel line can hide dryrotted and cracked fuel hose and you don't know it until it leaks... the braid does you no favors by gathering the fuel and letting it run to the lowest point to drip... in your example it wouldn't matter... if someone lets their non braided line dry rot and crack to the point it sprays a mist of fuel everywhere, they will also ignore fuel soaked braid on a line...

Pros and cons are sometimes interchangeable based on the perception of the person comparing... Braided fuel line, especially the poor quality braided line available these days, is not welcomed on any car I own, but some swear by it...

Sun Feb 13, 2011 5:58 pm

I think the most important thing is to do regular inspections! as posted in previous pics I love the cheep $1 filters, the reason for that is that I change them at every oil change (probably why I haven't touched my carbs in 15years) and inspect all hose, clamps, wires, look around for oil leeks, check cv boots, tie rod/ball joint boots, fell inside the fan(found A antenna ball one time :? ) fell the fuel hose, and oil lines if you have them.. Just spend some time looking over the car and it well go A long way to make the car safe :wink:

Wed Jun 08, 2011 9:29 am

wow
no SAE 30R10 rated 5.5mm
hose.
there are vastly better hoses today.
but no 5.5mm
who sells the best 5.5mm ? and is it rated for ethanol?
is there not a DIN or ISO rated hose in 5.5 using modern materials?

i will not run my car with 1968 tech, gas hoses
i will find the best hose. (wip)
and guess what, the engine lid is full of carbon under it.
and PO put on walmart hose. as the solution. (after the burn!)
it didnt fit right so he used double clamps.

this is why bugs burn. not using quality and perfect fitting hoses.

Tue Jun 14, 2011 4:34 pm

i have two fuel filters on my bug do i need two?

Tue Jun 14, 2011 4:39 pm

Giantlepracon wrote: i have two fuel filters on my bug do i need two?
Only if you have a rusty tank.

Tue Jun 14, 2011 4:44 pm

ok thanx

Wed Jun 15, 2011 9:13 am

mines off (tank) being pro cleaned.

my 30PICT2
what a forgiving carb.
the rust from the tank pasted through it, so long
that the bottom of the bowl is seemingly plated , with rust.
looks like aluminum rust, but just crusted with iron oxide.

carb just let the rust go right past the jets. (not that it can stop it)
a 69+ carb may not be so forgiving. (hidden idle screw?)

i had to use my citric acid , to etch out this rust.
my carb now looks like new.
berrymens, + acid fix, and a kit.

my filter is now moved to under tank.
not a cheap one either.

Wed Feb 29, 2012 6:50 pm

I have a question about the fuel port on the carb. I just recently got a brand new 34 PIC 3 in August of 2011. Assuming the brass fitting falling out is still and issue on these new ones, Is there a way to fix it permanently? I know I can wire tie it but if I get a tig welder can I weld the sucker in, or would just poxy hold it forever. I'm trying to limit the chances of it ever being an issue.

Thank you for the help.

Thu Mar 01, 2012 12:08 am

Quote: I have a question about the fuel port on the carb. I just recently got a brand new 34 PIC 3 in August of 2011. Assuming the brass fitting falling out is still and issue on these new ones, Is there a way to fix it permanently? I know I can wire tie it but if I get a tig welder can I weld the sucker in, or would just poxy hold it forever. I'm trying to limit the chances of it ever being an issue.
I suppose you could epoxy it but the wire trick works just fine and takes less than a minute to do

Thu Mar 01, 2012 12:17 am

locktite, if properly applied, is far more effective than epoxy
epoxy is for big gaps, locktite is for small gaps