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Sun Feb 03, 2008 11:36 pm

Dave,
Rust converters convert iron oxide (rust) to a primer, which does not block out moisture. For people who don't know that, it should have been noted in their directions. Also, it is good only for non-flaky rust and must be put on corroded areas, only, and not on bare metal.
I would assume that you removed what rust that you could mechanically, then applied the rust converter on areas left with lighter non-flaky rust. Was that so?
You must have sprayed it but why did you spray the rust converter into cavities where it may have been somewhat dirty and you couldn't put it over clean, non-flaky rusted areas, only? Did you drill holes to spray it into the cavities?
It must have been pretty humid for the sheet metal to get that corroded or else there was water in the product. Is the product that you bought a latex rust converter? I had used Rustmort, before, then bought one gallon of a latex rust converter at MJB Weld & Supply because it was a much better deal, and its conversion process gave tha corroded metal a yellowish color. The paint man at Paint Mart told me that since it is latex, it must have some water in it. That would be the only reason that I can think of for the cavities getting so rusty.
Get a pretty abrasive media, such as crushed glass (not sand) and shoot it on any areas that you can to roughen it and remove any corrosion. Afterwards, blow it off, clean it with wax and grease remover, blow it off and wipe it with a tack rag, if you want, then spray two coats of a good epoxy primer over it, right away, to seal it from moisture. Remember that if you are going to paint it, you have about two days to spray it before the epoxy primer sets up too hard. If you want to paint it later, you have to scuff up the epoxy primer real well, then coat the underbody with epoxy primer, again, then paint it within two days.
The cavaties are a different story. You may have to cut a section out of them, clean them out, then coat them with a rust encapsolator, except where you are going to weld; there, use a better brand of weldable primer such as 3ms (not SEM).
I've never used the product but some people like Picklex (I forgot how to spell it), which is supposed to do something to the rust and even seal it for a while until you can paint it.

Tue Feb 12, 2008 11:42 am

I've a 75 std that i wire wheeled the pan and inner fenders. I did the por-15 process but have had rust bleeding through. Less than a year the inner fenders with three coats have bleed through. When the two coats on the pan showed bleed through por-15 told me to sand/scuff the topcoat and repaint. I'm not too keen about a fourth coat.

Tue Feb 12, 2008 12:30 pm

I don't understand why rust has bled through; POR-15 goes on over clean, non-scaly rust and is supposed to encapsulate it. They recommend applying two coats of it at one time.

Wed Feb 13, 2008 2:24 pm

So when doing the floor pans (parts of them)
How do you rinse them off (they are still in the car -DD)

I need to do the back of my pans (67 Fasty)
They have a couple holes and Need to be rust proofed Before i Duraline it

I have a Li'l starter set of POR-15 that should be perfect for the area i need to take care of
(as well as the little rust spots here and there)

Wed Feb 13, 2008 4:27 pm

Quote: I've never used the product but some people like Picklex (I forgot how to spell it), which is supposed to do something to the rust and even seal it for a while until you can paint it.

I use the picklex for metal treatment on all the metal parts I have restored. It does a good job of neutralizing rust in those areas that you can't get to. seams, welds, overlaps, etc
Spray or brush it on, work it in with a brush or scotchbrite and wipe dry. NO rinsing with water like the POR :shock: product. In close areas where you can't wipe you can dry it with an air hose. Then when you are ready to paint, or powder coat in my case. Just wipe with surface cleaner to get rid of oils and dirt (actone for powder prep) and coat it.
I did quite a few parts of the wifes car back to 2000 thru 04 and we are happy with the results.
Lots of success stories and regular users on here:
http://autobodystore.com/forum/index.php

Sun Feb 24, 2008 10:06 pm

plotch wrote: I've a 75 std that i wire wheeled the pan and inner fenders. I did the por-15 process but have had rust bleeding through. Less than a year the inner fenders with three coats have bleed through. When the two coats on the pan showed bleed through por-15 told me to sand/scuff the topcoat and repaint. I'm not too keen about a fourth coat.

About 17-18 years ago I did some tanks for my HD Motorcycle and did this same thing with the same result-that is wire wheeled to the metal then prepped and painted (PPG paint/primer). Had rust bubbles under the paint in less than a month. After talking over what I did with others that knew paint better than myself, I once again stripped to the metal with the wire wheel, then sanded the tank entirely then prepped and painted, this time with good results-that is no appearant rust over a year later when I sold the bike. Our best guess on the problem was that there was a reaction between the metal of the tank and the metal of the wire wheel, or something was on the wire wheel that it left behind that caused the rust, perhaps residue from something I had used it on before. In any case, sanding the metal seemed to remove the problem the second time around. As I said, this was only our best guess and I am open to any other theories on this :)

GlennS

Sun Feb 24, 2008 10:37 pm

You always need to sand bare metal after using a wire wheel, the main reason being to condition the bare metal before painting. Also, a wire wheel can miss some tiny spots of rust that you won't even notice.
Sometimes, I've used a product called Metalprep 79 on bare sheet metal after sanding it. It has acid in it, and it etches the bare metal and dissolves away rust. That way, I make sure that there are no super tiny spots of corrosion left. Often, I've followed with their sister product called Galvaprep, which gives the metal protection against corrosion.

Fri Feb 29, 2008 3:47 am

Campy wrote: Linda--
There are a number of products out there and different ways of doing things. Go to a couple of auto paint stores and get some opinions; do the same thing at a good auto body repair business. Now is the time to learn how to do it right. I've done four old buses and I read some material and asked questions, to go along with what I already knew from having done body work, over the years.

Thanks Campy will do.
Lin

Sat Mar 01, 2008 9:46 am

W1K1 wrote: Quote: I've never used the product but some people like Picklex (I forgot how to spell it), which is supposed to do something to the rust and even seal it for a while until you can paint it.

I use the picklex for metal treatment on all the metal parts I have restored. It does a good job of neutralizing rust in those areas that you can't get to. seams, welds, overlaps, etc
Spray or brush it on, work it in with a brush or scotchbrite and wipe dry. NO rinsing with water like the POR :shock: product. In close areas where you can't wipe you can dry it with an air hose. Then when you are ready to paint, or powder coat in my case. Just wipe with surface cleaner to get rid of oils and dirt (actone for powder prep) and coat it.
I did quite a few parts of the wifes car back to 2000 thru 04 and we are happy with the results.
Lots of success stories and regular users on here:
http://autobodystore.com/forum/index.php This sounded like a good way to go for me. My pan was sandblasted last fall, stored indoors, but now has some minor surface rust showing. I plan to wire wheel over the surfaces, spray PicklEx, then POR with 2 coats. Sound good?

Mon Mar 03, 2008 6:15 pm

What do you guys think of soda blasting? I hear it works great and then washes off with water : )
Linda

Tue Mar 25, 2008 11:24 am

It took a long time to decide this, but...im driving my bus into the pool at the Hilton..

Sun Apr 13, 2008 4:19 pm

Knock on wood so far I have good luck with Rust Bullet !!
I have had it on my blasted to bare metal then Rust Bullet coated 72' for over 6 months and its still holding up.
I also just did my Pan, wire wheeled the whole thing then 2 coats of Rust Bullet so far, and its as tuff as nails.
I will say that if you put too much on, too quick, then it will buble in tiny spots, but scrape them off and recoat.
This stuff is the easiest to use so far, and its Tuff !!

I say Rust Bullet!!!

Mon Apr 14, 2008 9:34 am

I just went out and looked at them...no changes.

I still have 3/4 of a can of Masterseries left from when I started this thread. I opened it up the other day and it still looks great. I'll use it on a project I'm working on now. Good shelf life.

Mon Apr 14, 2008 9:47 am

Lee. wrote: I just went out and looked at them...no changes.

I still have 3/4 of a can of Masterseries left from when I started this thread. I opened it up the other day and it still looks great. I'll use it on a project I'm working on now. Good shelf life.
I think anything you can do to keep the oxygen/ water vapor away from it helps. Put it in a smaller container or plastic bottle and squeeze out the air, or just push a Saran Wrap membrane over and into the lid opening to keep the air from the product.
Al

Mon Apr 14, 2008 9:53 am

69doublecab wrote: Lee. wrote: I just went out and looked at them...no changes.

I still have 3/4 of a can of Masterseries left from when I started this thread. I opened it up the other day and it still looks great. I'll use it on a project I'm working on now. Good shelf life.
I think anything you can do to keep the oxygen/ water vapor away from it helps. Put it in a smaller container or plastic bottle and squeeze out the air, or just push a Saran Wrap membrane over and into the lid opening to keep the air from the product.
Al

I just put saran wrap over the og can and put the lid on.

Mon Apr 14, 2008 11:41 am

Lee. wrote: 69doublecab wrote: Lee. wrote: I just went out and looked at them...no changes.

I still have 3/4 of a can of Masterseries left from when I started this thread. I opened it up the other day and it still looks great. I'll use it on a project I'm working on now. Good shelf life.
I think anything you can do to keep the oxygen/ water vapor away from it helps. Put it in a smaller container or plastic bottle and squeeze out the air, or just push a Saran Wrap membrane over and into the lid opening to keep the air from the product.
Al

I just put saran wrap over the og can and put the lid on.

and stick in the refrigerator

Tue Apr 15, 2008 4:47 pm

hpw wrote: Lee. wrote: 69doublecab wrote: Lee. wrote: I just went out and looked at them...no changes.

I still have 3/4 of a can of Masterseries left from when I started this thread. I opened it up the other day and it still looks great. I'll use it on a project I'm working on now. Good shelf life.
I think anything you can do to keep the oxygen/ water vapor away from it helps. Put it in a smaller container or plastic bottle and squeeze out the air, or just push a Saran Wrap membrane over and into the lid opening to keep the air from the product.
Al

I just put saran wrap over the og can and put the lid on.

and stick in the refrigerator

also turn the can upside down, if you plan on mixing by hand, if you can't shake it. Some paints you can't shake.

Thu May 01, 2008 9:34 pm

I prefer to spray the POR 15 through my 1.4 mm primer gun. I have achieved the best results to date this way. I use their reducer and thin it only 5 percentm spray 2 good coats, and then follow with their primer.their primer sticks the best to POR in my opinion.
after that, I can follow with my icing, 2k high build primer, sand, and then eventually, a sealer before paint. thats the way I've been doing it on my problem areas I can't replace. ( like the whole roof on a bus that was left tarped too long and developed scale over the whole top) It was still very solid, just pitted across the whole top. no problems yet.

Thu May 22, 2008 6:55 pm

Any thoughts on what to do inside the tunnel? I've por-15 on the outside/bottom of the tunnel but there is heavy rust on the inside.

Sun Jun 01, 2008 4:52 am

Has anyone ever hear of a product called Bilt Hamber? A friend from the UK in my (other car) club just sent me info on it and he said it works great on rust and is biodegradable. I emailed the company for a local USA distributer.

http://www.bilthamber.com/corrosionremoval.html
"Bilt-Hamber Laboratories produce innovative proprietary rust removers that are non-toxic, biodegradable and extremely effective. These rust removers overcome the considerable risk to the user of toxic mineral acids. Whilst mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid are effective at corrosion removal they also liberate corrosive gases which accelerate damage to any unprotected material around the area of treatment."

Lin