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Sun Jun 08, 2008 11:58 pm

plotch wrote: Any thoughts on what to do inside the tunnel? I've por-15 on the outside/bottom of the tunnel but there is heavy rust on the inside.

I am in the process of dealing with the rust in my tunnel area. My plan is to wire wheel area using a drill and extension shaft. My transmission and front end are removed. I will access the front after removing the oval plate, the middle through the shifter hole and the back through the shift coupler access panel. Hopefully I can scuff up the rust enough to obtain good results. I think I will use rust bullet and something else prior to applying it (picklex?). Not sure how I will apply it yet either a sprayer with extension or dowel rod and some type of applicator. Does anyone know where I can buy rust bullet in So. California or do I have to purchase online?

Mon Jun 09, 2008 10:44 am

I think this is a great thread,

Though...

I agree with a previous poster, that once the plates were submerged under water( the pool) with its chemicals, and a torch ( not sure if you ever did that though) I think relevancy with normal exposure of car metal/treatment to the enviroment was lost. The hammer test was good if one wanted to see what would rust after an accident.
Torture test is one thing, "normal" exposure test is another.

though....I appreciated the dedication and ingenuity of the tests, ( I liked the sprinkler test), salt was good if you were able to do that.

Like a few others said, I was amazed how well the rustoleum held up. It seemed after quite a while, everyone of them was holding well, and that is when the torture test was decided to start - trying to get them to fail. This has convinced me not to use rust bullet, por or the like on the inside of my project I'm restoring.
It seems like if you do a good, prep job, (as you did) proper application and even more than the usual coats of a good paint ( people here been saying hi-temp plastikote), it would do just a well as any of the advanced products.
I was just on the phone with rust bullet today, and to do the inside of the small triailer ,1 qt would have cost me $50.00 w/ shiping. I can buy a lot of rustoleum with half that cost.

For a rust converter and protector, I go to home depot, paint dept, and picked up thieir 1/2 gal phosphoric acid etcher and primer for about 6 bucks. It has zinc phos in it also. Anphos stops flash rust. Put it into a cheap spray bottle, and you'll never use all of it. Good stuff, you need so little for it to do well - jst a thin mist.. that por15 prep/etch is a rip off like the others said.

Lee Thanks for all the work and attention in doing this!!! Thanks for coming up with and actually doing the work! in my above statments, I was not slamming you, just my giving my opinion. Your work on this has contributed a great deal!

Matt

Mon Jun 09, 2008 12:07 pm

THINGONER wrote: plotch wrote: Quote: Any thoughts on what to do inside the tunnel? I 've por-15 on the outside/bottom of the tunnel but there is heavy rust on the inside.

I am in the process of dealing with the rust in my tunnel area. My plan is to wire wheel area using a drill and extension shaft. My transmission and front end are removed. I will access the front after removing the oval plate, the middle through the shifter hole and the back through the shift coupler access panel. Hopefully I can scuff up the rust enough to obtain good results. I think I will use rust bullet and something else prior to applying it (picklex?) Quote: . Not sure how I will apply it yet either a sprayer with extension or dowel rod and some type of applicator. Does anyone know where I can buy rust bullet in So. California or do I have to purchase online?

http://www.kbs-coatings.com/Underseal-Spray-Gun-Probe_p_10-37.html

Quote:

This is supposed to be made for this, if any one uses it post back with

your results. I need to do the same thing and I don't want to be the guinea

pig :lol:

Tue Jun 10, 2008 5:35 pm

Where is the tunnel area? I have a rusty 66 and I am trying to figure out where the tunnel area is.
Thanks Linda

Wed Jun 11, 2008 10:52 am

Can someone tell me why you should not use rust converters on bare metal? I have a friend(okay it was me) who oversprayed on bare metal on the area where the fenders bolt on, :shock: thanks.

Thu Jun 12, 2008 6:00 pm

Rust converter has to be on rusted metal in order to convert it to a primer.

Sun Jun 15, 2008 5:51 pm

thanks, so painting over it when its on bare metal can create adhesion problems probably right?

Sun Jun 15, 2008 7:25 pm

Linda Grunthaner wrote: Where is the tunnel area? I have a rusty 66 and I am trying to figure out where the tunnel area is.
Thanks Linda
The tunnel is where the shifter, emergency brake handle, and heat/defroster levers are mounted.

Sun Jun 15, 2008 8:14 pm

Bugs'n'Pugs wrote: Linda Grunthaner wrote: Where is the tunnel area? I have a rusty 66 and I am trying to figure out where the tunnel area is.
Thanks Linda
The tunnel is where the shifter, emergency brake handle, and heat/defroster levers are mounted.

She's got a bus.

Thu Jul 17, 2008 7:58 am

Okay, so let me get this straight:

1. Scrape: Wire Wheel or whatever you decide
2. Sand the area (especially if wire wheel used).
3. Acid prep:
Your choice of: Metal Prep 79, POR Metal Prep, Picklex, or Home Depot Phosphoric Acid etch and primer, etc.
4. Degreaser

Steps 5,6,7 and 8 for interior and bottom rust prevention.

5. POR 15, Rust Bullet, ETC.
6. Seem Sealer all the edges of the panels (to prevent creeping)
7. POR 15 Primer if POR 15 was used.
8. Sand
9. High Build Epoxy Primer of your choice.
10. Sand
11. Sealer
12. Paint

Okay so:

1. When does the plastic filler get used if you decide to use it?
2. Are there any types of incompatible paints or primers that I need to worry about or stay away from?
3. Floor pans or other patch panel prep: completely remove paint or scuff?
and what about treatment of inside areas, prior to welding after welding?
4. Campy, when does Galvaprep get done and what exactly does it do (degreaser?) or do you need to degrease after this?

I assume this is all for the inside of car and underneath and outside is blasted and can be epoxy primed...is that a good assumption?

Sorry for all the questions but the newbies don't always know the complete process.

Thanks,

SAM

Fri Jul 18, 2008 2:51 pm

Lee. wrote:

This is how they looked when I took them off the roof.

I used cleaner and an SOS pad to get rid of all the surface rust. I primered both panels. The rust will eat through and it will be easier to see. Some of the places are stained red and gives it the impression of rust. There is a lot of bubbling.

Lee or other viewers,
Which one of these sections was Rust Bullet? Any more update photos are appreciated and I just love your post :lol:
Linda

Tue Jul 22, 2008 5:52 am

Zeen wrote: Lee. wrote:

Here they are after hosing them off. The chlorine water completely took away the rust. The silver between the products is bare metal. The rust on the samples is stains, it's not coming through.. The rustoleum is bubbling the worst. All the other ones are bubbling, but, not as bad. The 4 seem to be holding up the same. I'll take a closer look at them on Friday.

Am I missing something, or is Eastwood the clear winner?

Tue Jul 22, 2008 5:55 am

Looks like Eastwood is the best. I really never would have thought that. However, can anyone answer my questions from my previous post? I think it is three posts previous to this one.

Please help clarify things.

Thanks,

SAM

Wed Aug 06, 2008 7:36 pm

I know this thread is old but the guys on ford forums told me to try Chassis saver.
It was cheaper than POR and has been on my truck frame for a year and doing real well.

Thu Aug 07, 2008 2:28 pm

Ok I keep looking at reviews on this stuff and I have read other post by people swearing by Por 15. I thought that the big thing with the por 15 was not how well the primer stood up but how well the primer and topcoat stood up to rusting. Am I wrong about this?

The Eastwood from what I read was soft and needed to be painted for a longer lasting effect. Is this true?

Mon Aug 25, 2008 10:42 pm

That's a very old picture.

With the big samples on the left a lot of that discoloration or 'rust' you see is just water stains.

The 4 smaller samples on the right look identical except for the shade of color with E,MC&RB. POR started to turn green due to the UV.

I'll clean them up tomorrow and post some pics.

Anyone have the current pricing shipped to your door for a quart of each?

Mon Aug 25, 2008 11:35 pm

I just went out, degreased, washed, scrubbed and dried them all off.

None of them held up to what I did to them over the last 3 years. They are all bubbled up. Scraping off the bubbles, there is a ton of rust under all of them. It's all equal, I'll take some pics tomorrow in the sun. None of them seem to 'encapsulate' and 'stop' rust. Unfortunately, there is no magic formula that you can just apply to rusty metal and it 'goes away'. :lol:

Here's my .02 on what I will do for chassis work..

1. Grind/wire wheel/sand as much of the parts/rust as I can get to

2. Use some kind of rust converter (whatever is cheap)

3. Grind/wire wheel/sand some more.

4. Replace the metal as needed

5. Clean it up as best as I can like it was going to the painter

6. Use any of the 4 products.

I know this 'test' is very rudimentary and there is no clear cut winner. But I will say this....

Current prices for quarts:

POR15 $45
RB $45
E $37
M $27

I would buy Masterseries CT because he's kept the price down while the other companies try to reformulate and raise prices. Chuck is also a VW enthusiast.

Mon Aug 25, 2008 11:38 pm

I'll probably cut the samples up next week because I need some sheetmetal for my bug. :D

Tue Aug 26, 2008 3:45 am

Lee, Thank you for the recommendation on our MasterSeries. Ive been using this product for over 20 years and would never sell a product I didnt believe in. Also am more than willing to keep the price down and offer after the sale advice to anyone who has any questions. I am at car shows and swap meets many weekends with the product meeting customers face to face so email advice is never a problem. Chuck P

Thu Aug 28, 2008 12:18 am

This was cool I am going to start my own. I am going to use identical small pieces of metal and I will try the product you use and a few others. I am going to go get the stuff tomorrow and start next Thursday.