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Wed Sep 10, 2008 1:14 am

patrickkryan wrote: This was cool I am going to start my own. I am going to use identical small pieces of metal and I will try the product you use and a few others. I am going to go get the stuff tomorrow and start next Thursday.

Great!

Take over this thread and post up the pics from start to finish. It would be interesting to see another test.

If I had to do it all over again I would 'prime' brand new steel panels with the rust inhibitors, paint them, abuse them and see what happens. :lol:

Wed Sep 10, 2008 1:22 am

vwsplitman wrote: Lee, Thank you for the recommendation on our MasterSeries. Ive been using this product for over 20 years and would never sell a product I didnt believe in. Also am more than willing to keep the price down and offer after the sale advice to anyone who has any questions. I am at car shows and swap meets many weekends with the product meeting customers face to face so email advice is never a problem. Chuck P

Chuck,

You have a good-quality product at a fair price. It's nice to see that it still can be done. 8)

Wed Sep 10, 2008 5:29 am

Lee. wrote: patrickkryan wrote: This was cool I am going to start my own. I am going to use identical small pieces of metal and I will try the product you use and a few others. I am going to go get the stuff tomorrow and start next Thursday.

Great!

Take over this thread and post up the pics from start to finish. It would be interesting to see another test.

If I had to do it all over again I would 'prime' brand new steel panels with the rust inhibitors, paint them, abuse them and see what happens. :lol:

+1
Maybe abuse them with salt spray (dissolved salt in water sprayed from windex bottle will work).
That'll speed the process up by quite a bit and is more of a 'worst case' scenario.

I'd also be curious to see how some of the undercoatings hold up. I don't have any of that stuff so can't donate some but maybe some here do?

Thu Sep 11, 2008 9:15 pm

Lee. wrote: patrickkryan wrote: This was cool I am going to start my own. I am going to use identical small pieces of metal and I will try the product you use and a few others. I am going to go get the stuff tomorrow and start next Thursday.

Great!

Take over this thread and post up the pics from start to finish. It would be interesting to see another test.

If I had to do it all over again I would 'prime' brand new steel panels with the rust inhibitors, paint them, abuse them and see what happens. :lol:
I am honored that you will let me. Here is how I am proceeding. I have three pieces of metal that are 8 by 12. I bought them thinking that they were normal steel but to make sure I sanded the surface and sent them through the dish washer. The next morning they where lightly rusted so I prepped and painted the pieces in the same way so that they are identical and I fallowed the manufactures instructions. One peace will be left in Washington. The next one will be right next to the beach in southern California and the last one will be abuse.
The pattern is ttpttpttpt
which is test and plain.

T=Krylon rust tough galvanizing primer
T=Premiered then Krylon interior/exterior topcoat
P
T=Rust-oleum stops rust clean metal primer
T=primed then Rust-oleum stops rust semi gloss protective enamel
P
T=Ace Primer Rust stop
T=Primer Ace Mac/Imp Rust Stop
P
T=Rust-oleum prime and top coat then under coating.
I wanted to test some others that you did not test. The reason I am retesting Rust-oleum is that I know their primer is not very good but I have good experiences with them when I top coat them.

Thu Sep 11, 2008 9:25 pm

Fresh steel

The paint, I am sorry about the spillover with the undercoating but it is on a plain panel so I do not think it will impact the test

The
Washington Test

Fri Sep 12, 2008 5:19 am

patrickkryan wrote: Fresh steel

The paint, I am sorry about the spillover with the undercoating but it is on a plain panel so I do not think it will impact the test

The
Washington Test

I could send you some Liquid Film to try along with those panels. It is a greasy substance that doesn't dry and protects against corrosion. It is meant to be applied to inner panels to keep them from rusting.

Fri Sep 12, 2008 7:38 am

Just checked on that liquid film, sounds pretty good. 12oz spray can is $8.72 gonna try some out.

Tue Sep 23, 2008 4:18 pm

I'm going to stick to what I know about rust you can only hide it not get rid of it and since it is a chemical reaction that holds true

Wed Sep 24, 2008 12:03 am

I am going to let the abuse panel sit in water over night and tomorrow I will post a few new photos. Also I have already started the test so I will not add to it.

Tue Oct 14, 2008 2:00 pm

Lee,

Great topic! Have you heard of KBS Coatings? It is like Kreem a three part system. I used it on a cycle tank and it did not even harm a new paint job but the inside of my tank looks nice after a year. The other product is called Rust converter, small white bottle you brush it on and it turns rust black and you paint over it. i used some where my battery goes in the Bug. I plan to spray rubberised under coat on over that then put in a new soft anti corrosion battery mat to finish up. Hopefully here in California I won't have to cut and weld it anytime soon? Thanks

Rick

Sat Oct 25, 2008 4:42 pm

Lee. wrote:

None of them seem to 'encapsulate' and 'stop' rust. Unfortunately, there is no magic formula that you can just apply to rusty metal and it 'goes away'. :lol:

Here's my .02 on what I will do for chassis work..
1.2.....3.........4......

5. Clean it up as best as I can like it was going to the painter

6. Use any of the 4 products.

I know this 'test' is very rudimentary and there is no clear cut winner. But I will say this....

Current prices for quarts:

POR15 $45
RB $45
E $37
M $27

I would buy Masterseries CT because he's kept the price down while the other companies try to reformulate and raise prices. Chuck is also a VW enthusiast.

So what's wrong with rustoleum according to your tests?

Matt

Wed Oct 29, 2008 7:37 pm

Yeah I would like more on the rust oleum. The inside of my tunnel was all rusted so I shook it and banged it with a hammer it get most of it loose. Got all of it out then used Acetone a couple times down it to clean it of any dirt or grease then I poured a quart of Rust Oleum down it. This was lastnight and it covered the whole bottom. Since this area isn't in direct contact will this help the tunnel from rusted through? I banged on the bottom of the tunnel with a hammer as hard as I could and no where did it even leave a dent so I believe it's just the beginning of it rusting due to the previous owner had started to take some of the seals and windows out 2 years before I got it.

Mon Mar 23, 2009 3:32 pm

Someone just posted a thread in the Bay Window forum about rust protection, and it got locked and forwarded here. But there is more to rust protection than just finishes. I just started one about sacrificial anodes here:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=348681
and would be interested in comments on that.

Thu May 14, 2009 1:43 pm

there's any european product equal to por15 or rust bullet(they're hard and expensive to find in europe)?
has anyone ever tryed "rust seal",it's available in uk and looks just like por15.any feedback on it?

Mon Jun 01, 2009 6:43 pm

I figured that I would post my experience with Por 15 to help others. 2 years ago, I replaced my pans with WW pans and then applied por 15 without stripping the primer from the pans and without using metal ready...what a dumbass I was. When I was vaccuming my car out, with the carpet out, up came the por 15 with the dirt. I am now in the process of stripping off all of the por 15 I applied and recoating the pan. Basically, there was little to no protection because the product didn't fully stick.

PREP BEFORE APPLYING POR 15!

Tue Jun 02, 2009 8:25 pm

mr matt wrote: Lee. wrote:

None of them seem to 'encapsulate' and 'stop' rust. Unfortunately, there is no magic formula that you can just apply to rusty metal and it 'goes away'. :lol:

Here's my .02 on what I will do for chassis work..
1.2.....3.........4......

5. Clean it up as best as I can like it was going to the painter

6. Use any of the 4 products.

I know this 'test' is very rudimentary and there is no clear cut winner. But I will say this....

Current prices for quarts:

POR15 $45
RB $45
E $37
M $27

I would buy Masterseries CT because he's kept the price down while the other companies try to reformulate and raise prices. Chuck is also a VW enthusiast.

So what's wrong with rustoleum according to your tests?

Matt

I think one thing that really showed was none of the products worked when they were applied over rusty metal like they claimed they would.

In that case, rust won. :lol:

Most of the manufactures now have different ways of prepping it before applying the product.

The prep is the key, just like any type of bodywork.

I'm interested to see how the bare-metal test turns out.

BTW, I did find the 2 og panels when I was cleaning out my backyard last week. :lol:

I'm getting ready to restore some seats, i still have some MS from the og post. I'll use that to seal them all up after I prep them.

Tue Jun 02, 2009 8:26 pm

patrickkryan wrote: I am going to let the abuse panel sit in water over night and tomorrow I will post a few new photos. Also I have already started the test so I will not add to it.

Update?

Wed Jun 03, 2009 4:12 pm

I was waiting till I had photos of all of them but I can show you what i have so far

Sun Jun 07, 2009 11:44 am

Artie325...DAMN! That sucks but that could happen with almost any product if not prepped correctly. Going with Masterseries now? :)

Mon Jun 08, 2009 5:03 pm

No, my brother gave me a quart of por-15, so I bought some metal ready to do the job right.