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Wed Apr 13, 2011 6:53 am

bugdust wrote: The pan when it was fresh

The pan after being outside for 8 months. The lighter color is paint overspray from using the pan as a workbench. Right after this I put a coat of Rustoleum on top.

It is still sitting outside and still has water sitting on it. :cry:

Whats the beam? that still looks good! powder coat?

Tue Jun 07, 2011 4:46 pm

I just read all 14 pages and was left laughing at Lee's comment, "and in the end, nothing worked." Great! So much for worrying about getting the right or wrong thing. Rust wins. It is just a matter of when?

Sat Nov 12, 2011 10:35 am

I patiently waited to reply-

Rust isn't going to dissolve and go away. It has to be completely removed no matter what you cover it with. The only way to properly prep is with this followed by some epoxy...

http://www.zendextool.com/speedblaster/

Chemicals are snake oil.

Tue Jan 03, 2012 11:03 pm

Good torture test, but as some have said, some things were not really applicable, especially the chlorine. I would've soaked it in gasoline, brake fluid, and salt water. I also would've attached it under a car somehow and driven with it a while. Maybe shot it with a BB gun for a chip test.
Anyways, one thing I like is that Rustoleum performed really well. I don't know why people knock it so much. We have a staircase at work that leads up to a parts room. Just a simple metal stair case. Sees hundreds of feet a day. It's been painted in Rustoleum Rusty Metal primer for years and it still looks as good as the day it was installed (long before I got there). The stuff is tough. I'm not saying you should paint your whole car with it, but some Rusto primer and black on the floor pans goes a long way.

Wed Jan 04, 2012 11:51 am

Lee. wrote: Lee. wrote:

Here is the orientation of the panels.

I'll make sure to label each picture from now on.

I found the panels and tossed them in the trash last weekend. Here's the final pic....In the end, after 5 years, nothing worked. :lol:

from the looks of the results it looks like the rust bullet did the best.

Tue Mar 06, 2012 5:45 pm

Just bought rustoleum rusty metal primer. $11 per quart, $5 in the spray can. I didn't see the price in there earlier. Considering how it faired, it is the budget winner. I have to agree though, that all these products look like fool's gold. I plan to keep mine in the garage, and certainly out of the pool! My Toyota will have to sleep outside...

Sun Mar 11, 2012 1:18 pm

my vote would be for the rustoleum, when i worked in steel erecting, that was what we used to paint all of the beams when we were done connecting and/or welding (this was 18 yrs ago).

i loved the effort of the experiment, but i would have used little ( 4" x 4" ) plates so that the metal would be completely surrounded by each product separately. that way rust wasn't coming from behind or beside, or even when the product from beside failed it can't creep over/under.

all of these may have passed, or been closer, even without prep.

no matter what prep was used, we are only treating the SURFACE, not changing the composition of the metal. ANY exposed/untreated metal is a open door.

for cavities some of y'all have good ideas such as drill & spray/fog something in ( i'll be using waxoyl ).

BUT glad someone tried 2 do some kind of comparison so armchair experts ( like me, lol ) & others w/experience could chime in also.

hope i gave some insight, or feel free to just ignore me, thats what my ole lady does :lol: !