TheSamba.com :: View topic - '70 Convertible

Sun Sep 18, 2005 3:18 pm

I decided to start a thread about my project Baja since I have been stepping on other people's threads (sorry!) What I have posted I thought was relavant to the threads, but it was time to start one of my own for this car.

I purchased a incomplete project car - most of the cage/chassis was already finished, except for a few missing welds and no bumpers. All of the suspension equipment was present except for the rear shocks. I have had the car now since June and here is where I started:

'70 Convertible
091 trans w/ new rebuild & close ratio gearing (3rd & 4th)
3 x 3 rear trailing arms
930 CV's
SAW axles
SAW 27mm torsion bars
Fuelsafe Fuel Cell
2 Beard seats (need recovering)
Scat shifter (will be replacing)
Honda Steering Column (?) (will be replacing)
Saco Rack & Pinion
Chromoly tie rods
Autometer guages (tach, fuel, oil p, water, volts)
Foddril front trailing arms - 4" longer (I think)
gusseted stock spindles, k&l
Fox Racing coil-overs, 2.0 w/ remote reservoirs - 10"
6" wider front beam
Yokohama 7.00 x 15's (new) on Jackman Alumastars (front)
General Grabbers 31 x 10.5 x 15's (new) on Ultra Wheel beadlocks (rear)
Stock convertible top frame (in sad shape, but restorable)
Doors, and all stock windows w/chrome trim intact
one pc. front end and rear fenders (all fiberglass being replaced)

Here is how it looked when I rolled it into the garage for the first time:

More updates to follow...

Sun Sep 18, 2005 3:30 pm

Since the purchase, I have completed the following:

added SAW adjustable rear torsion center section (w/ gusset plates below per Hot VW's project article)

welded all trans horn seams

cut out trans mounts and relocated trans w/ new mounts

purchased (2) 12' and (2) 14" Fox Racing shocks, 2.0" w/ remote reservoirs for the rear.

I am working my way from the rear of the car forward. The drive train and rear suspension are first, then on to the the rear firewall. Then come the seat mounts and harness tabs, then the dash, and lastly the front suspension. The front top shock mounts will be removed and redesigned. The car had a water cooled engine which did not come with the car. The front cage and beam mount were designed around a full sized radiator. Some of this design will be cut out and changed since I will be putting an air cooled engine in.

Sun Sep 18, 2005 6:37 pm

I finished the trans mounts and here it resides in it's new home.

Here is a view of the other side...

Now to finish the rear suspension assembly and on to the firewall!

Sun Sep 18, 2005 8:01 pm

looken great! keep those pictures coming. You are a personal insperation for me. Plus I've getting some new ideas how to do things from you pix. Thanks again.

Sun Sep 18, 2005 11:11 pm

Interesting front tranny mount (closest to the shifter). Are you going to be installing hydro for the clutch?

I am also intrigued by your rear mount that incorporates the stock frame horns and the rear most bolt at the same time. Are you planning to attact some kind of rear cage to that tube extension? Looks good!

INSAYN™

Mon Sep 19, 2005 6:05 am

Yes, I am (will be) using a CNC hydraulic clutch. The rear-most bolts on the frame horns are not being used. The tube extensions are welded to the ends of the frame horns. That is where I will be attaching the rear tube bumper from. The extensions were already welded there when I purchased the car.

Mon Sep 19, 2005 12:16 pm

That is looking very nice. The only thing I would like to have seen done differently, is the whole tranny being mounted a couple inches lower in the chassis. It's coming along nicely Skid. Post up some more detail pics of the car for us to "ooooh and ahhhhh" over.

SHMO

Mon Sep 19, 2005 12:45 pm

I can't get the nose any lower - the shift shaft is almost rubbing on top of the tunnel. I couldn't run it inside the tunnel since the previous owner welded a cap over the tunnel front where the stock nose yoke was cut off. I could have recut an access opening, and made a removable cover, but I decided against it. The rear might have gone another 1/4" to 1/2 lower, but that's all. I think it will be fine and if necessary the limit straps will be a little shorter instead of maxing out the CV's...

Mon Sep 19, 2005 4:34 pm

Huh,

it must just be the picture. It looks like the drive flanges are quite a bit higher than the frame horns. Either way, it looks good. Keep working!

SHMO

Mon Sep 19, 2005 4:54 pm

The drive flanges are measuring about 5/8" to 3/4" above the frame horns. If I put them much lower I would not have had room for the weld beads on the inside of the rear tabs. I needed room for the urethane bushings between the flanges. I tried, man... I really tried!!! :cry: :cry:

Mon Sep 19, 2005 4:56 pm

So how was Alaska? (and don't say Idaho....) My wife and I are planning an Alaskan cruise for our 20th (groan... has it been THAT long???). I heard it is better than the southern Mexico cruises...

Mon Sep 19, 2005 5:19 pm

20 years????

Man, you must be really really really old. I think I saw some of your kind walking around on the boat. :wink:

Serioulsy though, Alaska was more than I had hoped for. We really had a great time, and the sights were simply amazing. I highly recomend it. On the other hand, I have never done a Mexican cruise.

SHMO

Mon Sep 19, 2005 6:15 pm

Quote: Man, you must be really really really old.

Age and treachery will beat youth and exuberance any day of the week, pal... When I tried out Depends, they just kept filling up with dust. Does that give an idea how old? :x :x :x

I keep telling my wife, "I am not as good as I once was, but I am as good once as I ever was!" 8)

Mon Sep 19, 2005 6:35 pm

That "depends filling up with dust" one was funny. You old timers kill me sometimes.

SHMO

Mon Sep 19, 2005 6:37 pm

Seriously though what are you, ...75...80 years old?

SHMO

Mon Sep 19, 2005 6:41 pm

Old enough to know Honda motors don't belong in VW's... :shock:

Still 40 something if you must persist...

Mon Sep 19, 2005 7:09 pm

Okay... let's get this topic back on track.

I am interested in seeing other designs of bump stops for the rear suspension. Since I have to fabricate these on my own, I haven't come up with any decent ideas that I have seen. Obviously needs to be tied into the roll cage/chassis in some way. I saw the picture posted of that yellow baja that was still hitting the body with the tires. Not good. I would also like to tie the rear of the trans horns into the upper cage tubes as well without making it a pain in the ass to get the motor out. So no braces across the bottom of the horns. I want to be able to roll the trans out with a floor jack...

Mon Sep 19, 2005 8:41 pm

All right... now I am hosed... I went to install my new Fox shocks tonight and... the rear shock mount on the trailing arm is too close to the top of the arm to allow the bolt through the shock. Damn. Where did this guy come up with these trailing arms?! I don't want to grind on the bottom hiem joint housing on the shock, and I don't want to grind a relief in the top of the trailing arm. Using a smaller diameter bolt seems like the only easy solution, but that just isn't right to me. Besides, the bottom of the shock will still rub and bind on the top of the trailing arm. And there will be room for it to bounce up and down in the hiem. Aaaaarggghh!!!!! If I have to replace these trailing arms I am going to be pissed! I think the only correct solution short of replacing the arms would be to cut off the plate with the shock mounts and weld on new ones. Grrrrrrrrr..... I thought building this car was supposed to be fun.

Mon Sep 19, 2005 9:22 pm

I must be old too, because I also realize Honda's don't belong in Bajas.

As for you problem, can you post a pic of the shock mounts with the shock in roughly the right location? Maybe there is a way to rectify the problem easily, a way you are maybe overlooking.

For bumpstop setups, I recommend scouring old Hot VW's magazines. You can usually sneak a peak at various cars in there. Looking online is also a great source of pictures. Take a peak at sand rails and long travel desert cars. If I run across anything interesting, I will post it up.

Good luck, and don't get discouraged. The fun will come. It just takes time and a little patience.

SHMO

Mon Sep 19, 2005 9:38 pm

The bushing is kicked at an angle because the bolt catches the edge of the bushing. The hole is about one bushing wall thickness off.