| dembus |
Sun Nov 13, 2005 8:04 pm |
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Old Seals
Cut out old seals exposing window frame, no rust but lots of Texas dirt and some bare metal.
Made sure to clean the glass edges and window frames for a good seal.
Sanded, primed and painted bare areas.
Used plenty of glass cleaner to lubricate, then stretch and mount seal around bare glass. Best position was glass standing upright while sitting in chair and working seal around glass in a forward and backward motion to open the gap. Very physical especially at the end. Used a plastic tool to work pull cord around perimeter of seal, overlapping about 18" hanging out at bottom of glass.
Helper held window on place while I pulled cord which pulls the inside seal over window lip. I found on the second window the helper was not needed. Important: Bring window to opening, hang both cords inside bus, take hammer fist or palm strike and go around perimeter of glass pounding the seal into place. Do not start one side fully then try to get other side in. Just go around consistantly a little at a time until the inside seal is 1/8 inch from lip all the way around. You must hit the glass very, very hard and use plenty of glass cleaner as a lubricant. Once seal is 1/8 inch from lip get inside and pull cord wrapped around a screwdriver handle slowly until inside seal is overlapping metal lip. Then bang the glass some more, all the way around edges until it won't go in any more. Second window took about five minutes to install.
Remounted side covers with new beading and greased the slider mechanism while I had the cover off and it latches almost effortlessly. The seals came from oeveedub and they fit beautifully.
Middle windows next. |
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| Reedm |
Sun Nov 13, 2005 10:49 pm |
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That is awesome. You know you just gave me the motivation and confidence to replace my window seals. I was thinking it was going to be pretty expensive to pay to have them put in.
What about the windwings. have you done those widows yet. Can you do th windshield at home also?
Nice write up.
Reed M |
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| dembus |
Mon Nov 14, 2005 5:20 am |
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Reedm wrote:
What about the windwings. have you done those widows yet. Can you do th windshield at home also?
Nice write up.
Reed M
I eliminated the drivers side wind wing and I will be putting either sliders or jalousies in the mid window openings and eliminating the passenger, middle windwing. I think the windshield will be the hardest. I have a small rust repair to be done up there so I may have the body shop r&r that one. Thanks! |
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| dembus |
Mon Nov 14, 2005 12:43 pm |
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| Is there a way to mount jalousie windows without screwing them through the metal lip? |
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| sluggo |
Mon Nov 14, 2005 12:50 pm |
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| Perfect Timing! I just pulled my rear side window yesterday and will be replacing it once I paint tomorrow. Thanks! |
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| bdann |
Mon Nov 14, 2005 1:59 pm |
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dembus wrote: Is there a way to mount jalousie windows without screwing them through the metal lip?
I can't see how you would, the seal doesn't really hold the jalousie window in place like on the other windows.
You're not kidding about having to hit the glass really hard. I tried this like three times with a helper and being very gentle with it and there was no way it was going in.
Tried a fourth time, instead of a helper, I got a big rubber mallet - had it installed in under 10 minutes. :lol:
The windshield is an all around different story. I've attempted to get it installed six times now. I've read every post I can find about installing the windshield and just can't find a way to get it in.
One common thing I've seen in the many threads on this topic is the Brazil seal that Bus Depot sells is apparently really easy to install.
I've got the OEVeedub seal, it's just not going in. |
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| bdann |
Mon Nov 14, 2005 2:02 pm |
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Oh and dembus - I meant to say those are great photos.
Any tips on installing the new beading in the slider cover? |
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| dembus |
Mon Nov 14, 2005 2:37 pm |
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bdann wrote:
Any tips on installing the new beading in the slider cover?
I installed the beading on the cover lip first. I left the screw out of the adjustable rod and started the right side (front) first. Holding the left side of the cover higher than the right making sure that the bead is between the rod and the bus. Once the right side is certainly set start lowering the left and bang down with fist from right to left until it fully seats. Install cover mounting screws loosly and insert track rod screw and when you tighten it will snug itself tighter against the bus. Finish by tightening cover screw. The drivers side is easier should be obvious. Good luck!! |
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| kevin77westy |
Fri Dec 02, 2005 5:57 am |
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| Nice.. I have been dreading doing this job so its nice to hear and see others experiences. Great pics dembus. As far as the windshield job goes, I think (could be wrong) that the windshield glass is actually a different type of glass and is very easy to break. A very good body guy told me that but I don't know for sure. Anybody know?? Seems like just size alone makes it fragile no matter what kind of glass it is. I had a glass place do mine when I had nose work done and even they managed to break my old one trying to get it back in. Got me a free replacement :D.. I have a couple of other busses that need this done too.. I might have to try it myself next time just for kicks. Good luck with your windows flabay.. Let us know how it comes out. |
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| VDubTech |
Fri Dec 02, 2005 6:14 am |
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| Windhseilds are safety glass....meaning the have a plastic sheet in between the 2 layers of glass so that if it breaks, it doesn't shatter into thousands of tiny pieces, it stays in one piece. I don't think it's the compostiion of the glass that makes it more fragile, I think it's the curve in the glass and its size that make it easy to break. |
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| simon66 |
Mon Mar 19, 2007 8:48 pm |
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Dembus,
Thanks for contributing this. Great pics. I used it today to install my rear hatch, back and center (slider) windows. Using the string and applying a liberal amount of simple green to the seals before I centered them in the window - worked wonders.
With the lub, the windows slipped right into the channel, within an 1/8 inch of the lip. Pulling the cord was easy and is sucked the windows right in without any pushing from the outside.
The only challange was installing the sliders as the seal was a little loose, making it tough to pull the string, but only in a couple of places. Use alot more simple green and took it slow to avoid ripping the seal.
Scott |
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| jereandjess |
Tue Mar 20, 2007 5:11 am |
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This should be added to the FAQ thread at the top.
Great write up and pictures.
Thanks! |
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| dembus |
Tue Mar 20, 2007 6:00 am |
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simon66 wrote: Dembus,
Thanks for contributing this. Great pics. I used it today to install my rear hatch, back and center (slider) windows. Using the string and applying a liberal amount of simple green to the seals before I centered them in the window - worked wonders.
With the lub, the windows slipped right into the channel, within an 1/8 inch of the lip. Pulling the cord was easy and is sucked the windows right in without any pushing from the outside.
The only challange was installing the sliders as the seal was a little loose, making it tough to pull the string, but only in a couple of places. Use alot more simple green and took it slow to avoid ripping the seal.
Scott
Your welcome, but I just did the same as you did, searched the topic and used others helpful info to do a job I had never done before. I only added the pics at certain intervals. I'm happy it helped you.
By the way, I also did a "vent wing to jalousie conversion" similar to this topic if needed.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=145129&highlight=jalousie |
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| jaredm81 |
Tue Mar 20, 2007 6:02 am |
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| be careful on the middle windows. I bought the seals from BD and they are a little big to just pop in. I asked if I got the wrong one they said that the middle window with the vent wing is the same as the rearmost seal with vent wing. Anyway I worked for hours little by little I got the slider window done. Than started doing the other side and was hammering it in than my window shattered. And no I didn't hit the window with the hammer. Hopefully oeveedub's seals are a better fit. That is where I am going to buy my next seals from when I get my new window if I don't decide to go with jalousie's. |
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| simon66 |
Tue Mar 20, 2007 6:56 am |
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Quote: By the way, I also did a "vent wing to jalousie conversion" similar to this topic if needed
I did the same conversion but popped in some sliders. I am not sure if the middle window rubber was the same manufacturer as Jaredm81 used but I too found that the seal fit a bit loose in the sliders. I bought them at Wolfsburg West. This made it hard to pull in the ends, as they were a bit pinched between the slider lip and the window opening. Lots of lub and slow careful pull with the string seated them in properly.
Called a local glass company today to come out to install the windshield, figured it may be easier for them to install than myself. $184 installed with PPG glass, I supply the OVEEDUB seal.
Regards,
Scott |
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| david_594 |
Sun Jan 20, 2008 11:50 am |
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bdann wrote: Any tips on installing the new beading in the slider cover?
Is the beading for the driver side and the passenger side the same? |
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| DaKine |
Sun Jan 20, 2008 12:59 pm |
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david_594 wrote: bdann wrote: Any tips on installing the new beading in the slider cover?
Is the beading for the driver side and the passenger side the same?
Yes, the (aftermarket) beading is the same and interchangeable from driver to passenger side...Dunno if NOS rubber is the same...mine never had any before I replaced it with aftermarket rubber |
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| alikatcraig |
Mon Jan 21, 2008 9:50 pm |
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Toughened glass used on all VW's side and rear windows can be pounded on - I have kicked the glass out from inside before - without breaking. The front screen being laminated is prone to break if stressed. Cut all the seal lip on the inside with a Stanley knife with hook type blade. Start gently pushing the top center and work outwards If it doesn't come out easily you haven't cut the rubber seal enough. When fitting Simple Green or dilute washing up liquid works great as lube. A cooler (not cold) day will stop the lube drying out. DO NOT pound on it or it will break. Euro cars came with toughened glass front screens long after the U.S went to laminate, and they had no problems with breaking when replacing. The only times I have broken a laminated screen has been in removal.
Hope this helps.
Al |
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| Bay74 |
Mon Jan 21, 2008 11:11 pm |
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| My dad and I were able to get the windsheild in no problem...just use a lot of windex. |
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| mywifesghia |
Tue Jan 22, 2008 6:37 am |
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| Dembus thanks. Our new seals are on backorder but should be in soon. Replacing the back drivers wing window with a solid and the middles with sliders. Thanks for the pictures! |
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