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Sun Jul 13, 2008 2:56 am

Here's my 1969. In the front I've got a 4" narrowed adjustable beam, and AirKewld 2.5" BJ drop spindles. I dropped the rear two clicks. I'm running 205/60r15's on the rear and 185/60r15's on the fronts. All the rims are 5.5 wide. The adjustable beam is at about 1/2 of it adjustable range; that is to say I can still go about 1 - 1.5 inches lower but I'll need narrower front tires to avoid rubbing the outside lip of the fender when turning.

This is the first ACVW I've owned and have had it for just just about four months. I installed everything myself in my garage with basic tools. Every bit of information I needed was found here in the Samba Forums.

Lower your ride. Do it yourself. Ask questions. Take your time. Don't cut corners. Drive happy.

Here's an update and a link that you might find interesting if you are thinking about adding Air Shocks like I recently did.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=313075

Also as you'll see in the newest photos I'm running 155/60r15's on the front now as well.

Sun Jul 13, 2008 5:05 am

Here is mine:

Front:
2" narrowed CB Performance beam
narrowed tie rods and springs myself
5.5" Empi 5's
145/15's
lowered 4 inches
one set of caster shims

Rear:
lowered 1 outer spline
5.55" Empi 5's
205/70/15's

Fri Jul 18, 2008 12:35 am

to lower the rear do i actually need to buy any thing or do i just have to move something?

Fri Jul 18, 2008 2:35 am

hotfries75 wrote: to lower the rear do i actually need to buy any thing or do i just have to move something?

You need to buy a socket wrench and some work gloves. :wink:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=143097&start=80
Watch these videos, then go out in the garage and get it handled!

Thu Jul 24, 2008 7:53 am

How much lowering is it before I need the "lowering type" sway bar?
I have a 19mm stock layout, but am uncertain of how it fits.

This is a 1970 standard, balljoint.

Glenn: I have the same height, a bit higher than yours. Did you use it?

ps: which way is the sway bar mounted (as in the bends in it)

Wed Jul 30, 2008 1:41 pm

i want to drop my bug 4' front 3' rear. will an adjustible beam lower the front that far, how far can an adjustible beam go. will the tires rub with this drop with a stock length beam. what else will i need besides lower shocks. with the avis adjusters, can they be installed while the beam is still in the car or do i have to take it off?

Wed Jul 30, 2008 1:45 pm

You mean 4" front and 3" rear.

To go 4" in the front you really need a adjustable beam and dropped spindles. You also need a narrowed beam.

redhot wrote: How much lowering is it before I need the "lowering type" sway bar?
I have a 19mm stock layout, but am uncertain of how it fits.

This is a 1970 standard, balljoint.

Glenn: I have the same height, a bit higher than yours. Did you use it?

ps: which way is the sway bar mounted (as in the bends in it)
I originally reused my "non lowered" front bar but it was really close to the ground. So i replaced it with a lowered bar.

Wed Jul 30, 2008 2:01 pm

Glenn: how much clearance are there between the framehead/lower tube and the ground? Thank you for the above answer! Just bought a lowered sway-bar

Wed Jul 30, 2008 3:28 pm

if i just use an adjustible beam and go down 3'' in the front will i need a different sway bar or anything else

Tue Aug 12, 2008 7:57 pm

Not to change the topic, but have any of you used the eccentric nut adjusters for lowered cars?
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C12%2D6612%2D10

I can see how it has been machined differently than the VW eccentric. But is this necessary? I'm not using it if it is just cheap junk. Any thoughts?

Sat Aug 23, 2008 5:59 pm

okay here's what I have found out about KYB BJ shock lengths
The standard measurement is from the center of the mounting eye to the base of the threaded shaft.
Add 3 inches if you are using end to end measurements.

KYB 344208 (CIP sells as 2" lowered... NOT)
extended 12.5" compressed 8.375"

KYB 344098
extended 14.625" compressed 9.375"

KYB 344054
extended 16.375" compressed 10.25"

KYB 343143 (stock size )
extended 17.0" compressed 12.5"

This is a comparison between the 344208 and the 344098.

While the 344098 is larger it is softer than the 344208 and much better ride than those little guys.

Tue Sep 02, 2008 7:22 am

All this info has been very helpful. I started work on my first bug ('69) and it's been a lot of fun because there's lots to do (little rust, engine rebuild, new wiring, interior).

I pulled the front end and followed some of the helpful hints about narrowing the beam. After I got all of the brackets cut off of the beam, I notice what looks like a nylon insert (four total) in the beam, under the two brackets that bolt to the chassis. What are these for and can they be eliminated?

Another question is that I'm assuming that the only way to get the original spring grub screw component out of the axle is to cut it out. I'm asking because some of the posts I read talked about narrowing the beam from the outer portions of the axle, leaving the center brackets in their stock location. Problem is, if you have to cut the center to get the grub screw stuff out anyways, why not just narrow at the center?

Anyways, thanks for all of the great info. This site is the best. I'll post photos soon.

Bryan

Tue Sep 02, 2008 6:02 pm

Nice pictures of your car Glenn, but why you lost the porsche log of the wheels? coming soon low my beetle how change the sport wheels adapter.
Hellos

Tue Sep 16, 2008 7:56 am

so tried fitting my been today but the plastic bushings inside it that the trailing arms
slide into are about a mm to small so I
red to open
them out.
got
told to
hammer a kink into my arms ten put them an and keep twusting till it cuts through but well it took ages to to half way through one and I need to do all four!
any ideas??f

Tue Sep 16, 2008 10:45 am

sorry was using my phone.
tried to fit my balljoint beam today but when putting the trailing arms in it they got jammed
pulled leves out it wasnt them stopping it turns out its the bushing inside the beem (made of plastic material?)
called up the manufacture they told me to make a notch on my arms and put them in while twisting to gouge out the bushing and it would fit.
took ages havnt even finioshed one yet anyone had this problem#?
and quicker ways bar using a 36mm drill bit?

Tue Sep 16, 2008 4:55 pm

shloopter30 wrote: ... Another question is that I'm assuming that the only way to get the original spring grub screw component out of the axle is to cut it out. I'm asking because some of the posts I read talked about narrowing the beam from the outer portions of the axle, leaving the center brackets in their stock location. Problem is, if you have to cut the center to get the grub screw stuff out anyways, why not just narrow at the center?...

Bryan

If you are adding adjusters to the middle of the beam, you need to cut the center out anyway. The only time I can see where cutting from the outside makes any sense is if you are only narrowing the beam, but not adding adjusters.

Tue Sep 16, 2008 6:02 pm

Quote: If you are adding adjusters to the middle of the beam, you need to cut the center out anyway. The only time I can see where cutting from the outside makes any sense is if you are only narrowing the beam, but not adding adjusters.

Thanks ashman40. I did end up cutting center out of the beam so I'm off to the races now. I do have couple of Avis questions.

I bought an Avis kit for a late model beam and the stop that came with it has two threaded holes.

1. Does the grub screw go in the top hole or bottom hole or should I even use it at all. In other words, should I just use the adjustment screw as the grub screw?

2. The stop (main part of the adjuster) is larger than the ID of the beam by almost 5 hundredths of an inch. It is slotted on one side, so does this thing get pushed into the tube or is this the wrong one? It will be very tight if I push it into the tube.

3. Should I just buy some of the other type of adjusters?

4. I read in a couple of areas where the original stop was used with the Avis adjusters after knocking it lose from the dimples. Is this the way I should have done it and if so, why do they sell the stop with the kit?

5. Not related to the adjusters... Do the inner bushings need to come out when using nylon bushings?

Sorry if some of these questions may have been addressed but I've read through this forum at least a dozen times and found a lot of helpful hints and links but still have questions.

Bryan

Thu Sep 18, 2008 8:36 pm

It's not recommended to narrow from the outside because the welds might interfere with the inner bushings & arms. Good luck with your project.

Thu Sep 18, 2008 10:01 pm

Sigurd wrote: Not to change the topic, but have any of you used the eccentric nut adjusters for lowered cars?
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C12%2D6612%2D10

I can see how it has been machined differently than the VW eccentric. But is this necessary? I'm not using it if it is just cheap junk. Any thoughts?

I ordered a pair of these a few days ago. I'll post a reply after they're installed. Couldn't hurt.....tbc

Fri Sep 19, 2008 6:40 am

put my meesily 2" narrowed in today got the spindles but no disc breakes yet so its not finished just the beem for now!
yeh the trakking is bad but another day!
bout 3" clearence all the way down on adjusters so its pretty scary drive!
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