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Sun Jun 11, 2006 3:03 pm

ok i gaved up waaaay 2 hard fittin those dam leavs into the trailing arms. my dad is taking the hole beam and arms to the beetle guy neer his werk. i feel so defeated. jsut wana kik my car. but i love it.
HAHA newho shood be or has 2 be dont by wednesday as i need it moved il post pics soon thanks for the help and advice geeezers!
YAZ

Thu Jun 15, 2006 4:40 pm

On a 74 Standard Beetle IRS would I have to remove the rear fenders to adjust the torsion bars? I need to get a little more clearance for my tires.

yaz731200 please start using spell check.

Thu Jun 15, 2006 6:14 pm

dan macmillan wrote: On a 74 Standard Beetle IRS would I have to remove the rear fenders to adjust the torsion bars? I need to get a little more clearance for my tires.

yaz731200 please start using spell check.

no, you should be able to reindex the spring plates with the fenders on.

Mon Jun 19, 2006 7:14 pm

this could be simple to some and difficult to other, but my assumtion is that when I narrow my beam by 4 inches and put in my adjusters, I will need to relocate the steering box by 2 inches to the outside... I am also of the understanding that with a 4 inch narrowed that shocks can be removed all together and you still get a decent ride due to the increased spring rate of thr shortened tortion springs... Input Please...

Tue Jun 20, 2006 8:02 am

MJMarkham wrote: this could be simple to some and difficult to other, but my assumtion is that when I narrow my beam by 4 inches and put in my adjusters, I will need to relocate the steering box by 2 inches to the outside... I am also of the understanding that with a 4 inch narrowed that shocks can be removed all together and you still get a decent ride due to the increased spring rate of thr shortened tortion springs... Input Please...

exactly.

Fri Jun 23, 2006 2:37 pm

Glenn wrote: Stevie Fierce wrote: but yes, the bolts you can get at the hardware store. It's just that many hardware stores (Ace, by my house) doesnt deal with a huge variety of metric stuff. they have some metric, just not alot of it.

The ACE by me carries alof of metric hardware and in Grade 8.8.

Just to clarify one thing that I noticed here...
Grade 8.8 metric is NOT the same as Grade 8 standard.
For a hardened metric bolt, the grade is 10.9. Grade 8.8 is very close in strength to a standard grade 5 (non-hardened) bolt.

(borrowed from the Rockford Fastener website)

Metric fastener strengths are rated by "Property Class" rather than "Grades." Metric Property Classes are roughly equivalent to SAE Grade as follows:

Property Class=Min Tensile Stregth
Metric
8.8=120,350

10.9=150,800

12.9=176,900

Standard
5=120,000

8=150,000

Head marking for metric fasteners has the Property Class number stamped on the head together with the manufacturer's identification symbol. Metric nuts also have their Property Class number stamped on one of the bearing sides.

Hope this helps...

Wed Jun 28, 2006 2:26 pm

i notice that when you drop the rear ther is alot of negative camber i know why this happens but, is it that bad?
i like how it looks but am wondering how much it wood cost to keep?
does the driving change in any way?

Wed Jun 28, 2006 2:42 pm

yaz731200 wrote: i notice that when you drop the rear ther is alot of negative camber i know why this happens but, is it that bad?
i like how it looks but am wondering how much it wood cost to keep?
does the driving change in any way?

It's not as bad with the IRS rear suspension. Sometimes on the swingaxle cars you'll see a tranny raise to take away some of the negative camber. You'll wear tires like a bitch, but you get the "look."

Wed Jun 28, 2006 2:44 pm

kool so the only bad thing is the tyres mainly bearing in mind my vw just about reches 40mph on a normal day (dayly\ nightly\ all the time driver)

Wed Jun 28, 2006 2:47 pm

Yes. IRS is better for lowering in the rear. The negative camber is nowhere near as extreme.

Swingaxle cars also go through wheel bearings quickly due to the lack of lubrication. The only lubrication they get is from the tranny oil. Unlike IRS cars which are packed with Hi-temp grease.

Wed Jun 28, 2006 2:50 pm

koowl thanks alot. im guessing IRS are the newer beetles? or jsut a diferent type?

Mon Jul 17, 2006 4:56 pm

So does anybody have any pics that show how to lower the rear end, or an instruction guide with pics?

Tue Jul 25, 2006 2:40 am

Glenn wrote: If you want to know how many splines inner/outer to move to get a desired height, take a look here >>---> http://www.glenn-ring.com/tech/low.html

Hi,

I`m going to reindex my rear suspension. The procedure is known, but the amount/angle is a bit tedious.

Lookin at the table mentioned in the link above, and standard height is supposed to be 20 degrees, 50 minutes.

If I want to lowe about 1,5 ", that is 3,85 cm, is the new angle supposed to be 70/50 minus 5/50? That is new angle is 75 degrees and 0 minutes?

Wed Jul 26, 2006 9:39 am

Because I am mathematicaly challenged. . .

looking at the rear torsion bar lowering chart. . .

If I want to drop approx 2":

Inner Outer
+9 (clockwise?) -9 (CCW?) for a drop of 4.95 cm

Here is where I get anal:

If you start with those setting say on the driver side, would they then be backwards for the passenger side?

Inner Outer
-9 (CCW) +9 (CW)

Thu Jul 27, 2006 9:36 am

Say Glen. . . is that a standard width, or a narrowed beam on that SB?

Thu Jul 27, 2006 9:45 am

harryset wrote: Say Glen. . . is that a standard width, or a narrowed beam on that SB?

Supers don't have beams, they have struts.

Thu Jul 27, 2006 10:57 am

DOH!!!!

I knew that :oops:

Fri Jul 28, 2006 10:06 am

On the rear end lowering question: Did I ask a really stupid question? Did I stump everyone? Did I cause everyone to stop and think. . .? Is the traffic just really slow on the stickies?

Fri Jul 28, 2006 11:54 am

ok so i bought a disk brake conversion, dropped spindles and a 2 inch narrowed beam and have been trying to put it together.
so far i have got the beam and leafs installed the arms with lowered ball joints. im not sure how to put the spindles on right. anyone have a how to on this?
also i kinda got a bootleg brake kit, its the ghia conversion but i have no back plate with them or a braket i read about for the calipers.
basically can anyone instruct me on how to's of installing the spindles and disc brakes?

parts i have
2 in narrow cb beam
forged 2 1/2 drop spindles
2 in narrow leafs
lowered ball joints
rotors
calipers
68+ tie rod ends
inner and outter bearings
the bolt with the allen bolt in it to hold wheel on and spacer
anything im really missing?

Fri Aug 04, 2006 10:42 am

i just bought adjusters to put in my beam i have a good welding buddy so fabricating is kinda not a issue but i still dont know where to cut how much to cut what to cut etc i really would like to narrow it 4
and call it good i know lowering the rear is way easy but the front is a different case and i dont understand any help would be appreciated

BOOMER