TheSamba.com :: View topic - Manx Clone Questions (Thinking of buying one)

Wed Dec 07, 2005 4:51 pm

I have located a Manx clone for sale for $600. It is need of various repairs, engine has been removed and torn down, seats were removed, paint faded, other items. It is a rolling buggy with wheels, trans, 2 extra engines, and other various parts. My question is, is it worth the money being asked? After a very quick look at it, body seems to be in good shape other than faded paint. What do you guys think?????

Wed Dec 07, 2005 5:06 pm

completely depends on what you are wanting to do. If looking for a fun project to put some money and a lot of time into, then go for it. $600 for a decent starting point is reasonable to me. Just be realistic on your expectations. If you are new to buggies and VW's (I am a veteran of about 5 months LOL) its a great way to learn.

If you know nothing, then find someone who does to help you check it out. Keep in mind that $600 wont buy you much of a regular car, but you may luck out on a buggy (someone lost interest, needs the garage space, etc.)

The nice thing is that there are tons of Buggy or VW owners that will help you out with great advise. Even if you totally screw up, you can salvage whatever is good and transfer it to another buggy or VW.

Major warning - I got a recent email from the former owner/builder of my buggy after I filled him in on the current projects I am working on with it over the winter. He said "Well, looks like you got it bad LOL, welcome to the VW community."

Wed Dec 07, 2005 5:32 pm

I would say goahead and buy it. If anything the parts are worth that much. I you get tired of it put the motors back together to the point here they run well and sell them for 400 each. You could probably get aobut 300 for the body and the same for the rollin pan. So if you loose interest just part it out and you could very posably make some money. But if you do decide to get it and buidl it up be prepaird to spent about 3-4 times as much money as you thought you would. Unless your like penguin on this board who is doing his bug on a donation basis.

Wed Dec 07, 2005 10:40 pm

The difference between your $600 buggy and a $1600 buggy will be the thousand extra bucks you spend on the $1600 one. That is all. You have a good starting point, and an extra 1000 bucks more than the guy who spent more and probably didn't get that much farther ahead then where you are with yours. Moral: unless you are going to spend a lot for a complete car that you can drive right away, spend as little as possible.
Using myself as a negative example: I looked for a while before I found one that I spent $1550. The car was running fine when I got it, and with some electrical work would have been servicable, but I am as sick as most in here, so it is currently completely torn apart and scattered in two garages. I've probably spent 2K on parts and some machine work, probably have at least that much more to go before I get it done, and LOTS of time. If I had bought a cheaper "box o parts" buggy like what you describe, I would probably be where I am now, only with a $1000 extra bucks to spend on parts.
I agree with others..if you want a project that you might drive in two years...buy it and get to work. If you want to drive a buggy rather than work on one...keep looking.
Make sure you look for cracks at the mounting posts for the headlights on the front fenders of your fiberglass body, and also around the front fenderwells and cowl (hood) mating surfaces. Leave these things unrepaired and when you drive it, your buggy will flap it's front fenders like a clumsy seagull trying to take off. My .02. Good luck with your project, whatever it may be.

Wed Dec 07, 2005 11:02 pm

First thing. Can you go and check it out. If so, I would check the body for thickness, thicker the better, and also if any pieces are missing. If you change things like taillights or turnsignals, you'll need some bodywork to fill in the old holes.

Second thing is to check the pan. Look at the weld where it was shortened, and look for some sort of reinforcement.

I think 600 is reasonable though.

Thu Dec 08, 2005 7:33 am

Buy it.
I always buy any buggy I can find for under $1,000.
You can't have too many.
I had 8 once at one time.

John
www.dunebuggyarchives.com

Thu Dec 08, 2005 7:35 am

A roller that includes that much for only $600 sounds like a deal to me. 8)

Thu Dec 08, 2005 7:42 am

That's about the high side of average for a buggy project. If the body was decent, I'd say go for it as well.

Thu Dec 08, 2005 9:11 am

that depends on where you are located. that may be high side on west coast but cheap as hell for east coast. i went to WV to get mine and it cost 5 times that.and it was barely running. it was exactly the look i was looking for though so i was willing to pay a little extra. be sure its what you want. otherwise its not worth it even if its free.

and for more info on buggies try:

www.manxclub.com

you'll find a lot of info there.

Thu Dec 08, 2005 11:22 am

Originally purchased for $1300 which included a good long block. Spent about $2000 getting it to its done stage. That was everything for the engine, wiring, seat repair, bodywork, paint, interior, etc etc.

Thu Dec 08, 2005 4:22 pm

Thanks for all of the advice. I am going to take a good look at it Friday afternoon. How can I tell if it is a true Manx? After talking with the owner today, I am not sure it is not a Manx. It comes with a truck load of extra parts. Right now, unless I discover something different tomorrow, I plan to buy it. If I do, I'll post some photos.

Thanks again for looking.

Thu Dec 08, 2005 4:34 pm

here's how you check.

http://www.manxclub.com/realmanx.htm

Thu Dec 08, 2005 4:41 pm

If it turns out to be a real manx for that price, You better jump on it fast.

Thu Dec 08, 2005 5:08 pm

I'd jump all over it for the spares alone.

If it is a Manx, great. If it's not, so what? Plenty of folks here with Manx clones that look as good as or better than some Manx's I've seen.

I did a deal just like this. Bought the car because it was under $1000 and I felt sorry for the guy trying to get rid of it. My buddy really wanted it but didn't need to part with the dough. Then a guy wanted to buy my driver so I decided to build the new project. Turned out, the guy never came to get my driver and somebody else wanted my project more than I did. I made money, I understand the project is going well. And everybody is happy.

Good luck. Post us some pix. Too cold for me to even look at my car right now.

<><
TC

Thu Dec 08, 2005 9:52 pm

If you can get it mildly pretty and running they're starting to go for $2500-6000

I always suggest people starting VWs in Rails and Buggies... easiest to get going... fewer body issues... easiest to recoup the money.

I'd show up wiht $450 in cash.

T.

Thu Dec 08, 2005 9:55 pm

Tim10 wrote: I'd show up wiht $450 in cash.

T.

I agree...even a lowball offer looks more attractive in green 8)

Fri Dec 09, 2005 4:42 pm

Well, finally got a good look at the buggy today. The body was in ok condition. The pan, however, was not. It looks as though someone has shortened the tunnel and welded sheet metal in place of the floor pans. After seeing that portion, I think I will have to pass.

Thanks for the advice.

Fri Dec 09, 2005 6:27 pm

Am I reading this right?

The pan, however, was not. It looks as though someone has shortened the tunnel and welded sheet metal in place of the floor pans

You do realize that most fiberglass buggies have to have the pan shortened anywhere from 10-14 inches depending on the model right?

Fri Dec 09, 2005 6:33 pm

there are 2 basic styles of glass buggies. long body which is the stock length, and shortened which is cut straight across (back in the day) or in a 'v' pattern (more common if done recently-better strength). it could be cut stock floor pans welded in, sheet metal, alot have diamond plate, etc.
but since you are passing on it- want to let us in or where it's at? :D

Fri Dec 09, 2005 6:52 pm

Yes, I know you are supposed to shorten the floorpan by 14 1/2 inches. Whoever shortened it didn't do a very good job. The transaxle was sticking through the top of tunnel at the rear of pan. Many of the welds were of poor quality. I just don't trust the work that was done on it. Best case would be to take the body and replace the pan completely.