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Mon Dec 12, 2005 8:03 am

Okay. So who out there has the secret for replacing the boot on T3's. I've done it a few times, but I must be doing it the hard way. It's a major wrestling match where I pretty much lose. I think I only win after the boot gets bored with the game and slips on to make me go away. In the meantime I sacrifice all of my dignity, and most of the skin on the back of my hands.

So what am I missing here?

Mon Dec 12, 2005 8:15 am

SquareTone wrote: Okay. So who out there has the secret for replacing the boot on T3's. I've done it a few times, but I must be doing it the hard way. It's a major wrestling match where I pretty much lose. I think I only win after the boot gets bored with the game and slips on to make me go away. In the meantime I sacrifice all of my dignity, and most of the skin on the back of my hands.

So what am I missing here?

as far as I know, there is no secret; I have lost skin in doing this as well...

I start with the bottom of the larger end of the boot and work my way around -- the smaller end seems to be the easier of the two to work with...

Mon Dec 12, 2005 8:40 am

Soap.

Mon Dec 12, 2005 9:53 am

I have found it is easier if I have another person helping me. One guy under the engine, one guy on the top, with pliers. The softer boots are usually easier too.

Mon Dec 12, 2005 10:06 am

vwlowryda wrote: I have found it is easier if I have another person helping me. One guy under the engine, one guy on the top, with pliers. The softer boots are usually easier too.

under the car? if the stock exhaust is there, under the car has little or no access to the boot...

Mon Dec 12, 2005 10:18 am

blankmange wrote: vwlowryda wrote: I have found it is easier if I have another person helping me. One guy under the engine, one guy on the top, with pliers. The softer boots are usually easier too.

under the car? if the stock exhaust is there, under the car has little or no access to the boot...
Yeah, that's usually my biggest problem. There's almost, but not quite, enough room between the top of the muffler heat shield and the bottom of the shroud lip. No way to get hold of the bottom edge so I have to find some way to magically get the fattest part of the boot to squeeze through the one place that the least space.
The big end never gives me any problem. (Except the first time when I had it upside down. Whose bright idea was it to make this thing fit only one way? :evil: )

Mon Dec 12, 2005 10:18 am

Get a new boot! A new one is supple and easy to put on. I know early models are more difficult than late models because of the top, rear engine hanger/donut holder thing.

Mon Dec 12, 2005 12:19 pm

Air_Cooled_Nut wrote: Get a new boot! A new one is supple and easy to put on. I know early models are more difficult than late models because of the top, rear engine hanger/donut holder thing.
Well, yes. Installing a new boot was the point of the thread. Ironically, the one I just installed is an old one in very good condition. I noticed that the rubber on this one is about twice as thick in the folds as the 2yr old one I replaced.
I don't even want to imagine installing one on a swing axle car.

Mon Dec 12, 2005 12:29 pm

If you leave it lay in the sun to warm up it streches a little easier. (For my fellow east coasters- use a hair dryer) :(

Mon Dec 12, 2005 5:16 pm

SquareTone wrote: Well, yes. Installing a new boot was the point of the thread... Oh, sorry. It wasn't obvious :oops:

Mon Dec 12, 2005 5:27 pm

Get the body side on first, and get that clamp into place. Now, on the engine side, get the bottom edge middle where the lump is between the muffler heat shield and the flange on. You can do this while the top edges is kinda folded out of the way. Now start working your way around the rest of it towards the center top. The last little bit, reach in through the pulley cover and help it into place with your fingers. Be sure you use a clamp on both sides, as torquing and movement of the engine can work it loose.

Mon Dec 12, 2005 6:41 pm

Russ Wolfe wrote: Get the body side on first, and get that clamp into place. Now, on the engine side, get the bottom edge middle where the lump is between the muffler heat shield and the flange on. You can do this while the top edges is kinda folded out of the way. Now start working your way around the rest of it towards the center top. The last little bit, reach in through the pulley cover and help it into place with your fingers. Be sure you use a clamp on both sides, as torquing and movement of the engine can work it loose.
That's pretty much how I've done it, and it was not fun. I was hoping I had missed an easier way that I could try next time. :?

Mon Dec 12, 2005 7:22 pm

loosen the clamps a whole bunch, slide it on, use a flat head screwdriver if necessary, then clamp it on. Ive never ran into trouble, and i did it at least 4 times, a couple on my 68 square and a couple on the notch.

-Ryan

Mon Dec 12, 2005 8:07 pm

Russ Wolfe wrote: Get the body side on first, and get that clamp into place. Now, on the engine side, get the bottom edge middle where the lump is between the muffler heat shield and the flange on. You can do this while the top edges is kinda folded out of the way. Now start working your way around the rest of it towards the center top. The last little bit, reach in through the pulley cover and help it into place with your fingers. Be sure you use a clamp on both sides, as torquing and movement of the engine can work it loose.

And 1 more little tip, put the lugs in the down or bottom position (orients the boot correctly).

Mon Dec 12, 2005 8:08 pm

If your rear rubber mounts are a little squashed, the engine may be sitting ower than normal. As a result, the opening on the engine doesn't line up with the one on the body. Try putting a jack under the engine and raising it a bit.

Tue Dec 13, 2005 7:27 pm

GjMan wrote: If your rear rubber mounts are a little squashed, the engine may be sitting ower than normal. As a result, the opening on the engine doesn't line up with the one on the body. Try putting a jack under the engine and raising it a bit.

Keep in mind later Type III don't have rear rubber mounts.

Tue Dec 13, 2005 7:30 pm

vdub wrote: GjMan wrote: If your rear rubber mounts are a little squashed, the engine may be sitting ower than normal. As a result, the opening on the engine doesn't line up with the one on the body. Try putting a jack under the engine and raising it a bit.

Keep in mind later Type III don't have rear rubber mounts.
Yes they do, out on the ends of the cross memeber, and those are the ones that are the worst about sagging. You can shim the mounts up with washers if needed. That was an authorised VW repair to align the engine.

Tue Dec 13, 2005 8:35 pm

Russ Wolfe wrote: vdub wrote: GjMan wrote: If your rear rubber mounts are a little squashed, the engine may be sitting ower than normal. As a result, the opening on the engine doesn't line up with the one on the body. Try putting a jack under the engine and raising it a bit.

Keep in mind later Type III don't have rear rubber mounts.
Yes they do, out on the ends of the cross memeber, and those are the ones that are the worst about sagging. You can shim the mounts up with washers if needed. That was an authorised VW repair to align the engine.

I stand corrected. That is right.

I would change them rather then shim them.

Tue Dec 13, 2005 8:43 pm

Russ Wolfe wrote: vdub wrote:
Keep in mind later Type III don't have rear rubber mounts.
Yes they do, out on the ends of the cross memeber, and those are the ones that are the worst about sagging. You can shim the mounts up with washers if needed. That was an authorised VW repair to align the engine.

Hey! That's nice to know (since I already did it).

Tue Dec 13, 2005 8:59 pm

I was wondering about that because when I changed my boot I noticed the engine was quite a bit lower than what it looked like it should be. Now I know this when it comes time to put it back in :)