TheSamba.com :: View topic - Fair pricing for a clutch linkage problem?

Thu Dec 22, 2005 10:27 pm

My clutch was slipping out of first gear when I would start off on occasion. I did the reverse thing and it didn't pop out of reverse. As you can tell, I don't know much about what I am doing, so I took the van in to be fixed. It's a 1980 VW Vanagon. The mechanic told me it was probably a bushing, linkage problem, and that he would have to drop the gas tank in order to complete the work, thus charging me $230 for labor and approximately $25 for parts. When I would shift between gears while driving, you could hear a squeaking noise. I shot some WD40 in there, but it didn't alleviate any of the noise. Do you think this is more of a linkage problem or a clutch problem? Or can you even tell by what I've described? Also, does the price I have been quoted sound fair? Thanks for your help. Oh, btw, I'm new here.

waverider1

Fri Dec 23, 2005 6:53 am

I also have an '80 and went through the nightmare of trying to adjust the shift linkage last summer. Do you have a Bentley manual? If not, get one and you will see that the linkage runs from the bottom of your shifter, to the side of the trans, completely clear of the gas tank! It doesn't have to be removed. The manual describes the correct adjustments and these are easiest to do on a hoist, or with two people, as an extra set of hands to hold the likage while the other tightens the bolts speeds up the process. It may take several attempts to get it right.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=245046

Make sure that the nylon ball on part "E" hasn't fallen off of the rod (it can be drilled and pinned) and the shifter is going forward to the point it comes off of the stationary rod "A". I went through all of this and installed a shifter rebuild kit ($30 from Van-Again) and it still wasn't right. I thought it was the syncros in the trans, but it turned out to be time for a new clutch. It's now the smoothest, easiest manual I've owned. Regardless, you should try the adjustments to rule that out before moving to trans/clutch problems. Hope this helps....

Fri Dec 23, 2005 10:56 am

Beaker, thanks for your reply. This will be helpful. I don't have a Bentley yet, but I'll check one out from the library. Looks like a two person job. I've debated getting rid of this VW, but I just can't do it. It's too versatile, but I have to many cars, so the 94 Audi has to go. I've got the full camper and I'll probably die with this thing. Thanks for your help. :)

Fri Dec 23, 2005 12:04 pm

No problem. I have a scan of the full VW scematic from the shiftknob to the transmission. If you want it, pm me with your email and I can forward it to you. Merry Christmas!

Fri Dec 23, 2005 3:25 pm

Heck yeah, I'll take it. Now this is a Merry Christmas. Thanks.

Fri Dec 23, 2005 3:59 pm

I already have one in my gallery... just hit my gallery button and scrool down...... :D Shifty and shifty 2

Fri Dec 23, 2005 5:44 pm

Beaker,

Know one thing first - NOBODY has parts for your shift linkage beyond the base of your shift lever. Drop the spare tire and use a flashlight to look along the shift shaft and your will see a place where the shaft goes thru a sheet metal hole in a bracket right on top of the gas tank. There should be a plastic 'bearing' around the shaft and mounted in the bracket. Probably not since you are getting the screech from metal to metal contact of the shaft on the bracket.

Your mechanic was probably not lying to you about replacing the plastic bushing - they would probably prefer just pulling the tank to jerking around with any other method that <might> be possible to replace it.

I have the same problem and have acheived a temporary solution by mounting a grease covered brush on the end of a rod, and thoroughly lubing both the support and the shaft. Long term, I'm hoping that the hole behind the gas tank, thru the frame, will allow me to mount a plastic bearing to support the shaft.

I shift slowly and carefully so as not to destroy the universal joint on the shaft which also seems to be unobtainium. The 80 vanagons at least are stuck with this linkage, and I have never seen reference on this or any other list about fitting a later shaft and components, which do seem to be readily available.

hth: terry

Fri Dec 23, 2005 5:46 pm

sorry that should have been addressed to waverider1....

Fri Dec 23, 2005 6:28 pm

Vanagain.com has a shifter kit for $40. Does that have all the parts in question?

Fri Dec 23, 2005 6:59 pm

The van-a-gin kit only contains the ball, socket and spring that go under the shift boot, I bought that one a while ago.
The bushing that is under the gas tank has two pockets on it that hold lube, may just need to be lubed up, not changed.
If you are lucky you can get NLA parts off Ebay (sorry motomatt), I got the rear boot, the wavy round bushing on the back, and the bushing you're talking about.
I took the slop out of the front with some thin washers, shifts very nice now, but still squeeks so I have to drop the tank to.
I'm goin to do the fuel hoses and grommets at the same time, and lube up the rear heater vent thing and cable.

Fri Dec 23, 2005 9:32 pm

Thanks for all the help. I've been waiting two days to get my Westy back to see how the clutch works. Auto shop keeps blowing me off. I'll probably never take it back there again, unless of course they do a great job, then it will be worth the wait. In the future I try learning here and doing it myself. Thanks for all the help. This is a great site.

Sat Dec 24, 2005 6:51 am

No sweat tgrogan. You are correct about the bushing in the guide hole. I keep mine lubed and it is okay. You are also right about most of the parts being NLA. When I went through my troubles, I thought that the fitting at the trans end of the long shift rod was worn and purchased a brand new one from VW ($200 piece of pipe!) and drove 100miles to buy a guide pin from a wreck. This is when I found out that VW used two different sizes of guide pin! One has a large solid nylon "knob" on the end, the other has a smaller diameter "knob" with a thin nylon bushing that sits in a groove. I ended up retaining my old parts (the smaller pin and the original rod) and it is working great. The shifter rebuild kit is a good investment and easy to install.

Sat Dec 24, 2005 8:54 am

My center bushing was almost gone when I got my 80 Westy, and finally it fell completely out and thus the skreech of metal on metal. I greased the metal parts and the skreeching stopped, but the whole shifting mechanism bounces around and clunks going over bumps. I will say one thing that with a new shift ball assembly (without the center bearing) it shifts incredebly smoothly - finger thumb smooth. But it's not long term like this.

I got a shaft rebuild kit from BD for it after long questioning, and it was the wrong kit anyway (just hoping for a miracle I guess - they did apologize and excepted the return with no problems). I did notice that the flangs and plastic bearing that are supposed to be on the frame member just behind the gas tank seem to be able to fit in some predrilled holes in my frame. It would support the shift shaft at a point about 18" behind the original above the tank, but would be maintainable. Not sure that it would be perfect, but it should keep the shaft from bouncing around freely. I kept one of the sets of flanges and a bearing from the kit and I'm going to try and mount it in a month or so during my winter upgrade session, and will post the results.

Sat Dec 24, 2005 12:39 pm

Good stuff. I'd like to hear how that works out. Mine is okay, but will likely go in the next couple of years. You can slide the rods out one at a time after disconnecting them without dropping the tank (I think). I was looking at fabricating some kind of bushing to take up the slop should I need to.

Merry Christmas!!!!