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  View original topic: redrilling for a new dipstick location
rubbachicken Sun Jan 08, 2006 5:02 am

i've got a type 4 1700 motor, 'WO.....' code
the dipstick goes through the fan shroud into the botton of the block, i know that other motors t25's {vanagons} the dipstick goes into the block through the top

as the motor is realtivly tight to the rear lid, also as i have a hatch from the top it would be easier
there is an inspection hole in the bottom if i drill down from the top, will the swarf just drop out of the bottom or am i likely to loose it else where inside the block

tuna Sun Jan 08, 2006 12:36 pm

The 411/412 sedan and the 914/912E used the dipstick next to the breather tower. The 411/412 wagons and the Busses had the bolt-on dipstick through the shroud.

I had RIMCO here in soCal modify a Bus case to use the sedan style of dipstick. As long as you have the tools to do it, it's not that difficult. The key is getting matching dipstick and tube.

Tuna

ecdez Mon Jan 09, 2006 12:11 pm

I did mine not that long ago. Here's what I did.

1) Found me an original Type 4 dipstick (just happened to have an extra) and got the measurement of the dipstick tube from where it comes out of the block to the top of the tube. Got this from another block with the factory tube. You will need this measurement later. Take your dipstick to Home Depot (or you favorite hardware store) and go the the plumbing section. There you will find some hard metal tubes used for hooking up a toilet/sink that are flanged on one end. Find one with a diameter that fits your dipstick. Buy it.

1) Remove all the goodies at the bottom of the block where your current dipstick goes in.

2) Take a rag and soak a corner of it in oil (this will make it a little sticky). Place the corner into the access hole where you removed all the goodies. This will catch anything that falls into the block. Remember, when you are drilling, most of what you drill out will be pulled out of the top of the hole by the drill bit. The only thing that will fall into the block is the final push through. Should be a very small amount.

3) Drill down from the top with a drill bit that is slightly bigger that the diameter of your tube. 1/16" bigger at the most. Try to drill down as straight as possible.

4) When your done drilling, remove the rag very carefully so as to not loose any pieces of metal shavings.

5) Place tube into hole (flanged side up) and smush some JB Weld around it where it enters the block. Once that cures, it's not coming out.

6) Use the measurement you got earlier and cut the tube to the proper length with a pipe cutter.

7) Cut yourself a small plate with two holes in it to cover the original access hole at the bottom of the block.





Never had a problem out of mine. Hope this helps 8) .

rubbachicken Fri Jan 13, 2006 8:42 am

ecdez, thanks for that, looks like i'll be getting drilling soon
cheers
:)

ecdez Fri Jan 13, 2006 10:29 am

No problem. Usually when I do something that I couldn't find any information on, I try to take a lot of pictures but for some reason I didn't do it that time :roll: .



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