TheSamba.com :: View topic

Fri Feb 26, 2010 10:59 pm

I have been scouring this thread for tips/tricks answers etc. Just seem to be a bit bewildered. I have a 69 bay and want to lower it. I'm not into the narrowed look. I want to keep a stock looking wheel and not have to get crazy with mods. How low can I go without a narrowed beam? I want the finished stance to be an even 6-8 inches off the ground. What do I need? Please don't say use the search tool either. Help a new Bay owner achieve his vision. Thanks for any help.

Sat Feb 27, 2010 3:03 am

damn this thread is long!! so has anyone removed some of the torsion bars in the front to lower their bus?

was this a good move? how is the ride? does anyone recommend this?

Sat Feb 27, 2010 6:17 am

ASPARKOFLIFE75 my 74 is not narrowed and has stock 185-14 commercial tires. With 2 people in the front it rubs to much to drive. I will be changing to lower profile tires. I am just running Widefive.net U plates in rear. Lowered spindles and adjusters in front but not narrowed.

Austin Powers, This is definenly a long thread with alot of the pics missing. With that said I think that most even in the lowering thread would frown on removing leaves to lower front. If you can weld or know someone who can adjusters are fairly cheap to purchase and install.

Lowering of front: Lowered Spindles, Adjusters, Narrowed beam, Tubs or a combination of all 4 depends how low you want to go.

Lowering of Rear: U plates, Turn a spline or to of your spring plate or a combination of both depends how low you want to go.

Here is thread on installing adjusters: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=64301&highlight=adjustable+beam

Here is thread on narrowing beam: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=71084&highlight=adjustable+beam

Sat Feb 27, 2010 6:51 am

^^^^^ thanks for that mate, that link for installing adjusters is awesome, i think what what its worth i'll install adjusters, not quite sure what the "using a pipe to knock out the retainers" bit means, do you knock out all of the torsion leaves original retainers just leaving the adjustable one in? i'm sure it will make sence when i've got it apart.

cheers mate

Austin

Sat Feb 27, 2010 1:55 pm

i cut a template from some cardboard using the "real" ones i found online as a guide, then got them cut from 1/4" steel and welded here at a local fabrication shop. total cost was $40, as opposed to the $150 ones online. gooddeal

Sat Feb 27, 2010 3:21 pm

drumming123 wrote: ...cut from 1/4" steel...

Good luck with that :?

Sat Feb 27, 2010 8:23 pm

Quote: Good luck with that

What's wrong with 1/4"? The spring plate itself is less than that.

Sat Feb 27, 2010 9:27 pm

go with proper horse shoes and adjusters. Widefive makes the right stuff and Aaron is a straight shooter!

Sun Feb 28, 2010 7:08 am

drumming123 wrote: Quote: Good luck with that

What's wrong with 1/4"? The spring plate itself is less than that.
The spring plate have the right steel flex and does not have any weld on.

If your want something that' not going to break, you need to have something bigger than 1/4" (more like 3/8") and with the right steel (For the flexibility) and use TIG weld type for better penetration.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring_steel

Sun Feb 28, 2010 12:12 pm

Quote: drumming123 wrote:
Quote:
Good luck with that

What's wrong with 1/4"? The spring plate itself is less than that.

The spring plate have the right steel flex and does not have any weld on.

If your want something that' not going to break, you need to have something bigger than 1/4" (more like 3/8") and with the right steel (For the flexibility) and use TIG weld type for better penetration.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spring_steel

I haven't seen any of the major u-plates being sold state that they are made from spring steel. The plates I've got had the edges beveled slightly then TIG welded to ensure proper penetration. I will try these, and keep a close eye on them for stress cracks. I don't do much freeway driving, just daily driver around town. If I begin to notice any sign of failure, I will remove them and clench my butt cheeks and drop the $150.00 on some "proper u-plates". Thanks for the advice everyone.

Sun Feb 28, 2010 12:24 pm

Well, sounds like you have a plan. That's the important thing I guess.

Also, make sure you keep an eye on your bearing hub for cracks near the lower two bolts :wink:

drumming123 wrote: ...drop the $150.00 on some "proper u-plates".

Just to clarify, they are $140shipped, Nate's are $155, plus shipping :wink:

Sun Feb 28, 2010 1:35 pm

little video with 2 Early Bay by VintageAutohaus

Narrowed Beam Ball Joint Vintage Autohaus
Dropped Spindle Ball Joint Vintage Autohaus
Rear Adjustable Plates Vintage Autohaus

This 2 BUS are Daily Driver

ENJOY:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KEYd5bjFjSo

Sun Feb 28, 2010 2:28 pm

autohaus wrote: little video with 2 Early Bay by VintageAutohaus

Narrowed Beam Ball Joint Vintage Autohaus
Dropped Spindle Ball Joint Vintage Autohaus
Rear Adjustable Plates Vintage Autohaus

This 2 BUS are Daily Driver

ENJOY:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KEYd5bjFjSo

Sweet video.

Sun Feb 28, 2010 3:09 pm

WideFive wrote: Well, sounds like you have a plan. That's the important thing I guess.

Also, make sure you keep an eye on your bearing hub for cracks near the lower two bolts :wink:

drumming123 wrote: ...drop the $150.00 on some "proper u-plates".

Just to clarify, they are $140shipped, Nate's are $155, plus shipping :wink:

And worth every penny. Thanks Aaron!

Sun Feb 28, 2010 7:02 pm

rcrjacob wrote: WideFive wrote: Well, sounds like you have a plan. That's the important thing I guess.

Also, make sure you keep an eye on your bearing hub for cracks near the lower two bolts :wink:

drumming123 wrote: ...drop the $150.00 on some "proper u-plates".

Just to clarify, they are $140shipped, Nate's are $155, plus shipping :wink:

And worth every penny. Thanks Aaron!

X2

Mon Mar 01, 2010 4:10 pm

ian11 wrote: go with proper horse shoes and adjusters. Widefive makes the right stuff and Aaron is a straight shooter!

With upper management written all over him. Sorry had to do that.

Mon Mar 01, 2010 4:53 pm

gottabug wrote: ian11 wrote: go with proper horse shoes and adjusters. Widefive makes the right stuff and Aaron is a straight shooter!

With upper management written all over him. Sorry had to do that.

Yeaaaaahhhhh. Gonna have to uhhhh. disagreee with ya there. yeauh.

Tue Mar 02, 2010 3:13 am

front adjustable beam

two splines rear
15" repro Gas Burners running 185/70

before (higher than stock)

after

Tue Mar 02, 2010 9:40 am

If I want to go about 3-5 inches lower than the bus above on my 69', what do I need? Looking for the tops of the tires to be in the fender wells. Can I attain this without narrowing. I have been looking at installing adjusters and dropped spindles with smaller tires on my stock wheels. What do I need for the rear? Adjustable plates? Would that work or do I need other components. I am wanting a level uniform stance. There are just so many opinions in this thread. My head is spinning. Thanks.

Tue Mar 02, 2010 3:13 pm

ASPARKOFLIFE75 wrote: If I want to go about 3-5 inches lower than the bus above on my 69', what do I need? Looking for the tops of the tires to be in the fender wells. Can I attain this without narrowing. I have been looking at installing adjusters and dropped spindles with smaller tires on my stock wheels. What do I need for the rear? Adjustable plates? Would that work or do I need other components. I am wanting a level uniform stance. There are just so many opinions in this thread. My head is spinning. Thanks.

Re-read the thread. It has all your answers. In short, horseshoes, adjusted/notched springplates. Adjustable beam, more than likely narrowed for what u want. dropped spindles. Go link pin if you want it low...