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Sat Nov 03, 2007 7:25 am

70 140 wrote: What are you guys paying for tank rentals and re-fills?

A friend of mine rents a half sized tank for about $10-$15 a month. I think that would be really good if you got through tanks pretty well.

I own my tank, and it is about $50 to exchange it out. Have only had to get it filled once so far and I've used it a lot.

jackbombay wrote: Flange tool, looks like a cool toy, so you make a recess for your patch to drop into then punch holes in your patch which you then fill with the welder?

That Flange tool should be the first thing you buy for welding in panels. I still do not have one and regret it. I know when I start doing body work on my Bug it will be a good tool. Just flange and use the other side to cut out holes for plug welding. Should be seamless with a little bit of metal filler and sanding.

Tue Dec 04, 2007 8:14 am

who makes snap on welders? my dad just picked one up from a mechanic who was closing up shop. its 220 takes gas and huge!!. will have to get the model. does snap on make their own?

Fri Dec 07, 2007 9:54 pm

It depends on what welder you have. Some were made by Century.. some Systematics.. some from an Canadian Company.. some from an Italian company.

Sun Dec 16, 2007 2:50 am

splittyshorty wrote: I was wondering if CO2 was the way to go or an Argon/CO2 mix? My buddy uses the mix called Stargone and says its the stuff? Right now I have CO2 - what would be the difference?

I'd like an answer on this one too.

Sun Dec 16, 2007 8:40 pm

JDGas wrote: splittyshorty wrote: I was wondering if CO2 was the way to go or an Argon/CO2 mix? My buddy uses the mix called Stargone and says its the stuff? Right now I have CO2 - what would be the difference?

I'd like an answer on this one too.

Here is the full Shielding Gas Comparison

Quote: The choice of shielding gas made a lot of difference to the ease of welding. Argon/CO2 mix or Argoshield result in easier and neater welds given a free choice of gas, but a MIG welder can be used with CO2 (pub gas) if you can put up with increased spatter and a less steady arc.

Argoshield is a BOC tradename. DIY welders would be unlikely to notice any difference between Argoshield and Argon/CO2 mixes from other gas suppliers.

Sun Dec 16, 2007 9:13 pm

Quote: CO2 vs Argon/CO2 Mix
The weld to the right was made using 80% Argon, 20% CO2 shielding gas. It was nice and easy to do. The arc was very stable and controllable and the weld turned out quite neat.

100% CO2 gas was used for the weld on the left. The arc felt much less stable with CO2 shielding gas, and the weld progressed in a stuttering fashion with blobs of molten weld (spatter) being blown off at regular intervals. That's a bit of spatter stuck to the weld about half way up on the left. The arc also seemed slightly brighter than with the argon mix.

Looks like we have a winner!

Fri Dec 21, 2007 7:14 am

CO2 is hotter and works better on thicker metal. At the 'shipyard' they used argon with 25% co2 for vertical welding. When they used that stuff the sound of the welding wasn't a sizziling noise like horizontal welding, but more of a spitting sound.

Mon Dec 31, 2007 12:50 pm

I learned on a MIG and have been welding sheet metal with a MIG for a while, but after taking many classes, with Ron Covell, Steve Hogue and watching build DVDs with Ron Fournier, they all use TIG welders. The reason is, the grinding of the weld and the hardness of the weld. TIG is a softer weld and MIG is a more brittle weld and thicker. MIG is easier to weld, but a lot more grinding, plus the actual weld is very hard and with too much hammering, it may crack. TIG is a little harder to learn, but in the end a much nicer weld to hammer on. The rod is for filler, you can actually just weld with no rod. You'll find that once you've mastered the TIG, it's much faster work of your project. If you MIG get a big compressor (and a quiet one), as you'll be grinding down your weld beads more. Most builders use the MIG for welding heavy applications and the TIG for finer work. Welding VW sheet metal (mostly 20 ga.) is thin and challenging. It's easy to burn thru and it takes a lot of patience. Some of the very early VW sheet metal (just after WWII), is made up of a very different metal content, maybe because the lack of sheet metal resources from the War. It's almost like welding on tin foil, it's so thin. Once you get to welding the '58 and later sheet metal, it's got a better make up. Most of my work is welding in patch panels. You form the patch panel, then TIG it in, hammer the weld to straighten the shrink, then grind off the weld. The type of weld, either TIG or MIG depends on how much you weld, how often you weld, what you're welding and how much you want to spend on welding. If you're bad at welding, you'll soon be great at grinding.

Fri Jan 18, 2008 12:37 pm

Has anyone used the spot weld gun from eastwood that works off of a stick welder. I already have a stick welder and would like to use it instead of investing in a mig or dedicated spot welder. About 60$ makes this an afordable option if it works good.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailm...uctID=1227

Sun Jan 20, 2008 9:07 pm

Quote: stancey53 wrote:
The Chicago Welders, all of them, SUCK! Harbor Freight sells a lot of Chicago Electric stuff. Its funny, I don't recall there being a Chicago in China but apparently there is as this is where these welders are made.

I bought a 220v one from Harbor Freight last fall and it didn't work. Flat out didn't work straight from the box. I called HF and they sent me a new one. Took it out of the box and, you guessed it, it didn't work. I talked to a tech support person from HF who said that it was likley a bad circuit board in each welder. They offered to send me a new board to install myself. Needless to say, I got my money back and bought a Hobart.

Good to know! I will avoid Harbor Freight like its got the plague.

I got a Chicago welder for about $30. And the circuit card blew in it too. Luckily it cost all of $8 to replace and it is pretty straight forward. The welds though are pretty messy with the thing, and I've had a couple of burn throughs that really irritated me. Perhaps the flux wire is too old...I don't know...I am Thinking of "upgrading" to a gas welder...I have quite a bit of work ahead of me in the future. The Hobart Handler 140 looks pretty nice...

Tue Jan 29, 2008 12:55 pm

I use a Lincoln 125 with CO2/Argon mix and SOLID wire. I butt weld all my sheet metal - takes more time to fit, but oh so nice results.

Tip I learned by accident - I love my auto darkening helmet, but in dark area when I need a light source, the light almost always sets the helmet off no matter how I set the helmet.

I learned that the LED lights do NOT set off the mask. Hold it right up to the mask - no darkie!

Now I can set the light right up by what I am welding and have a great view before I strike the weld.

Wed Mar 19, 2008 5:55 am

For those in the market for a nice machine, the 140 Hobart Handler can be had for a good price right now at northerntool (469, free shipping and a free cart).

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200306073_200306073

Plus, it was at my door in about 4 days. The cart is pretty good also and it is handy as the Hobart weighs about 60 pounds.

I just bought this to replace my campbell hausfield mig. The campbell hausfield had consistent problems with the wire feed-- very erratic. I would definitely not recommend the campbell welder! It was ok for flux core, but would never feed the .023 wire I was using when I switched to MIG correctly. After spending several months playing around with a crappy welder, I can definitely say it is worth it to buy a good machine off the bat! :)

Fri Mar 21, 2008 11:16 am

The Hobart is a very good welder. I was going to purchase that one as well (though found a better deal on a used one).. but $460 shipped is a perfect price as it comes with the cart and the gas regulator. Add $25-100 for purchasing / renting a bottle and you are all set!

Mon Apr 07, 2008 1:40 pm

I appreciate everyone's sharing on welders, as I am looking to get one before long for some as yet undetermined amount of repair work on my bug.

Sidetracked from welders themselves, for a moment, I am a little confused even after reading as much on the forum as possible, on respiratory safety. Seems like flux and weld-through primers cause the most hazardous gases to breath, but it also seems like in general an organic cartridge respirator is a good ideato wear. I wondered if this is just good standard practice for welding, period, using a MIG welder, flux core or argon/CO2.

I've heard nightmares about some kind of flu-like illness brought on by fumes from zinc? or some other such metal in the process of welding. Thanks.

Mon Apr 07, 2008 2:52 pm

That called zinc poisoning, and it's a real thing. Grind of all galvanic coatings before you attempt welding, your welds will be neater too. If you use an angle grinder, wait until you get sparks, that means you are down to proper steel!

Mon Apr 07, 2008 5:54 pm

Thanks for the information. There's a lot to keep track of in the business of working on the old car!

Tue Apr 08, 2008 8:06 am

So does original, or reproduction, sheet metal usually have a galvanic coating? Or is it the generic sheet metal people shape to make repairs that has this coating? Or both? Maybe it would be specified somewhere for the sheet metal pieces obtained? And this is, then, the main or only source of zinc affecting welding? Thanks.
-Allen

Sun Apr 13, 2008 6:37 pm

What is the concensus for heat range when welding 20 guage steel?

My welder's heat settings are: Low- 63-68 amps; high 79-90 amps. Too hot, even on the lowest setting.

Mon Apr 14, 2008 12:02 am

delibessleep wrote: What is the concensus for heat range when welding 20 guage steel?

My welder's heat settings are: Low- 63-68 amps; high 79-90 amps. Too hot, even on the lowest setting.

That is going to vary from brand and model of machine, and in part to operator prefrence / wire size and feed speed.

Sat Apr 19, 2008 11:40 am

Can't say enough about getting good equipment. For years, I have had an Airco Mig Lite 100...off brand made by esab. I have never had good luck with it...but wasn't sure if it was me or the welder. I finally went out and bought a Miller 140. It is a night and day difference. clean starts, consistent welds...I only wish I would have bought it years ago. :D