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Sun Mar 05, 2006 2:07 pm

http://eastwood.resultspage.com/search?p=KK&sr...s&rk=2

I was watching a show a couple of weeks ago on restoration and they were using body solders for using to fill small holes in their project! It was a big USA car but am going to use some on my 23 window project for the small holes that I have! I understand that leading a car is filled with noxious smells and somewhat worried about that but the real question is on ease of use! Is the new non leaded body solder easier to use or just the same? Anybody have good hints or sites on the use of body solders?
Rob

Sun Mar 05, 2006 2:22 pm

Lead free works just fine. Props to you for not taking the easy plastic filler route.

Sun Mar 05, 2006 5:53 pm

I notice Eastwoods sells both and it looks like leaded you can use a plumber's torch to apply it. Does the unleaded require more heat than they put out?

Sun Mar 05, 2006 7:08 pm

I've never used Eastwood's body solder, but a standard propane torch has worked well with the tin/silver material and tin/lead solders I've used. The trick is to use only enough heat to get the solder to flow onto the steel (and a good low temp flux).

Mon Mar 06, 2006 7:36 am

The Karmann Ghias used body solder to fill the gaps, seams, and irregularities. A friend of mine insists the artists at Karmann used pewter. Here are some pictures from my gallery of where I melted the solder off with a propane torch so better access spot welds. I believe Eastwood also supplies an instruction video for solder. Get it. You have to use a paddle, tallow, and a great degree of patience. Solder work is not something picked up overnight. As you have discovered, people who use solder are skilled artists.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=250000

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=250001

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=250003

Mon Mar 06, 2006 9:37 pm

Has anyone ever used this or know of someone who has?

http://www.muggyweld.com/

I have pinholes that I would like to close on my Bug. I don't want to use any plastic fillers.

Wed Jun 18, 2008 9:29 am

clearsurf2001 wrote: I've never used Eastwood's body solder, but a standard propane torch has worked well with the tin/silver material and tin/lead solders I've used. The trick is to use only enough heat to get the solder to flow onto the steel (and a good low temp flux).
:?: Do you have any tips on how to control the amount of heat and how to determine when you have the right amount?

Sat Jun 21, 2008 3:41 am

renderit wrote: I notice Eastwoods sells both and it looks like leaded you can use a plumber's torch to apply it. Does the unleaded require more heat than they put out?

less heat, the plastic stage is lower with the unleaded filler

Sat Jun 21, 2008 3:54 am

Bugs'n'Pugs wrote: clearsurf2001 wrote: I've never used Eastwood's body solder, but a standard propane torch has worked well with the tin/silver material and tin/lead solders I've used. The trick is to use only enough heat to get the solder to flow onto the steel (and a good low temp flux).
:?: Do you have any tips on how to control the amount of heat and how to determine when you have the right amount?

control is key,not only of the temp of the filler,
but also of the parent metal. Also use a good quality
flux, and make sure that you tin the work area
after you give the metal its tooth.
The metal filler will visually change as it gets to the 'plastic' stage.
The surface will look really dull as it comes up to workable
consistency . When it gets really shiny it is about to turn in
to a liquid and run of your panel.
practice on an old panel, and make sure that your shaping
files are sharp and .

Yes it kind of is an art form, but once you learn how
to do it , it's no harder than using plastic fillers.

Sat Jun 21, 2008 5:05 am

http://youtube.com/watch?v=gX5YjrsD_Pg

Sat Jun 21, 2008 6:22 am

This article may be of help. http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1494&...ubCat=1494

Also, you can ask Eastwood techs questions on their forum. http://forum.eastwoodco.com