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Wed Apr 12, 2006 12:33 pm

Hi, I'm just learning the terminology here, so I apologize in advance for not using the right words.

I just had a transmission built (Rancho Performance) for my Manx clone. The old tranny was a "crash box" type. Anyway, my mechanic installed the new tranny but called and said it doesn't shift right -- not because of the tranny but because my shifter doesn't mate up with it correctly. He says that the existing stick shift was made for a Beetle, but the combination of a shortened pan, new transmission, bus nose cone, and this original Beetle shifter make it so that the gears don't line up right. His suggestion is to try getting a Hurst or Berg shifter which *might* solve the problem.

What do you guys think? My car can't be the only buggy with this problem, right??

Thanks for your ideas, I'm stuck right now.

Wed Apr 12, 2006 12:49 pm

Sorry no help here, just a plea for an answer too. Mine is a '56 pan (shortened) and I think it has a bus trans. The trans' shift rod is about an inch higher than the shifter's rod. Someone from the engine/performance forum said it's common to use an aftermarket shifter that relocates the whole shaft above the tunnel to line up with the trans. I don't really want to do that as I want to use the E-brake setup in the stock position (which is right in the way).

"The Gonif", does this sound like your issue too?

Can a type 1 nose cone be used on the bus trans?

Wed Apr 12, 2006 12:58 pm

If I understand you correctly.. the nosecone is not the same as the old units . you can buy or build an adaptor for the new nosecone to line up the shift rod and trans nose cone. . I just took a plate if 1/2'' thick steel plats and drilled 2 holes to mount to the pan. then lined up the trans to the shift rod. marked the holes on the nosecone to the plate of steel . then drilled the holes to bold the trans to the plate of steel. Note this is not using a urethane mount and is steel to steel. you may have to use some washers as spacers between the plate and nosecone. you will know as soon as you bolt the trans to the rear frame horns.. I hope that was clear as mud..

Wed Apr 12, 2006 4:04 pm

Jeem: I don't *think* that's the same issue I'm having. According to the mechanic, it shifts, just that things aren't in the right place. Like 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th gear aren't in the same positions they used to be. He said "it doesn't shift right," but it does shift.

seabeebuggy: Is there room for an adapter? Based on what the mechanic said, I got the feeling that there wasn't much room down there between the shifter and the nose cone.

Basically, I went from a "crash box", or split case tranny to a new swing axle tranny, and I guess you use the nose cone from a bus as an adapter to make it all work. Only now it doesn't work right because the pan is shortened and things are out of alignment. Any ideas of what needs to be done to make this work? If it's an adapter, any idea what it's called or where I can buy one?

Thanks!

Jeff

Wed Apr 12, 2006 4:18 pm

I really dont know for sure . I had a 59 pan with the old style set up. so i had to change the mounting point of the nose cone . the nose cone is a modern kind used on the irs/ swing. did you shorten the shift rod? the shift pattern should be the same. Is the lock out plate still under the shifter? to keep you out of reverse. I dont see how it could shift any different.??

Wed Apr 12, 2006 5:28 pm

I shortened and relocated my shifter and had to rebend my shortened shift rod to get it it line up correctly with the trans. Used an electrical conduit bender, stuck the trans in 1st gear and the shifter in 1st before tacking the weld-in adjustable end in place. Yours might be a little too long or short, causing the shifter itself to be shoved too far one direction or the other and mess'in up the gear selection. Good luck.

Thu Apr 13, 2006 4:00 pm

Hey, thanks for all your input, guys. The mechanic ended up getting a used shifter from like a '69 bug and it seems to work better with the new transmission than my original '58 shifter. It still sticks sometimes between 3rd and 4th, but he says that could just be the new transmission breaking in.

He still recommends getting an aftermarket shifter (Berg or Hurst) because he says it lets you adjust it more than a stock one can, so you can get it all aligned up perfectly. We'll see...

Jeff

Thu Apr 13, 2006 4:32 pm

Read this: http://www.vw-resource.com/stop_plate.html

More articles concerning shifting in the index too
http://www.vw-resource.com

Thu Apr 13, 2006 7:50 pm

If the shift rod isn't shortened 'just right', not even a Berg unit will have the adjustment necessary to make it perfect.

You should be able to look at the shift coupler, shift through the gears, undo the shift coupler, and shift the selector manually, and see where the problem lies.

I have had success in opening up the mount holes a little with stock and aftermarket shifters to get the adjustment I needed.

But, to make it spot on, an adjustable shift-rod shortener is the way to go. It comes built in with in and out, and radial adjustment.