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El Vocho Fri Apr 21, 2006 12:16 pm

Everyone has there own ideas as to what is the best type of shock....

It all comes down to how you valve the shock,Thats what is going to determine how the shock rides, which ever way you decide to go make sure its adjustable, meaning it can be taken apart and revalved, that way if the shock you buy is to soft you can valve it alittle stiffer or vise versa. I know that Fox shocks were designed so you could revalve them at home. The Bilsteins I own are sealed and can not be revalved.

Good luck :wink:

corndog2 Sat Apr 22, 2006 10:53 am

Hello,

This continues to be a good discussion, thanks everyone.
Another question, is there any reccomendations for setting up the geometry for the shocks (what ever ones are chosen !) relative to the frame mounts and the axel shock mounts. It looks like I might have to weld some shock mounts, and just want to get a sense of what is typical.

El Vocho, do you happen to have a side shot of your buggy that
might show the angle back from the frame to the axel ?

thanks
dc

El Vocho Sat Apr 22, 2006 11:15 am

No I dont have any, but ill take some this weekend and post them.

tuff_puff Sat Apr 22, 2006 11:35 am

i am not a expert on this. but i think you want to mount your shock as close to the "arc" if you draw a line in the arc the trailing arm travels you want it to mount as close to that as you can get. i know there is alot of info about this out there and alot of dif opinions out there. im shure it kind of verys per application.

Skidmark Sat Apr 22, 2006 12:37 pm

I have heard you want the shock at a 90 degree angle to the trailing arm at full comression. Mock it up and see how it looks. That is pretty close to same position Tuff Puff said, so either should work fine. You could also check out the shock manufacturer's web site and see if they have technical data listed for your shock and do what they recommend.

Jowlz Sat Apr 22, 2006 1:34 pm

Skidmark wrote: I have heard you want the shock at a 90 degree angle to the trailing arm at full comression. Mock it up and see how it looks. That is pretty close to same position Tuff Puff said, so either should work fine. You could also check out the shock manufacturer's web site and see if they have technical data listed for your shock and do what they recommend.

This is what I use also. You can tack everything in...and watch the shock move. When at 90 to the trailing arm...you can see the shock slide in and out, with almost no movement in any other direction.....

El Vocho Mon Apr 24, 2006 7:40 pm

Corndog 2



Here are the pictures you requested.

I hope they can help.












corndog2 Mon Apr 24, 2006 11:26 pm

Awesome,

Thanks

best

-CD2

jakeddy Sat Nov 29, 2008 9:45 am

What other brands of coils overs for a mid engine are good? I just bout an old school Fiber Tech chassis that needs some.

CatRunner Sat Nov 29, 2008 10:47 am

I have Bilstein coil overs on my Sandsprite 4 Ford 2.3 turbo, but I am looking to change them because I need more travel. This resurrected post has been very informational.....






El Vocho Sat Nov 29, 2008 12:42 pm

jakeddy wrote: What other brands of coils overs for a mid engine are good? I just bout an old school Fiber Tech chassis that needs some.

I know your looking for coilovers but I now would suggest going with the nitrogen filled gas shocks that Marvin Shaw ( Yarnell Specialties ) makes.

I have run the coil overs for years and just purchased a car with the gas shocks and the ride is greatly improved.

Here is a picture.

CatRunner Sat Nov 29, 2008 12:56 pm

Got any more pictures of your new car El Vocho ? that looks sweeet....!

jakeddy Sat Nov 29, 2008 1:34 pm

El Vocho wrote: jakeddy wrote: What other brands of coils overs for a mid engine are good? I just bout an old school Fiber Tech chassis that needs some.

I know your looking for coilovers but I now would suggest going with the nitrogen filled gas shocks that Marvin Shaw ( Yarnell Specialties ) makes.

I have run the coil overs for years and just purchased a car with the gas shocks and the ride is greatly improved.

Here is a picture.


The frame I bought is simular, except with an aluminum front beam. Those air shocks look nice, thanks for the link. I will check those out.

runslikeapenguin Sat Nov 29, 2008 3:10 pm

the cool thing about marvin shaw nitro shocks is that they will rebuild them for you for free.

El Vocho Sun Nov 30, 2008 11:44 am

I also should mention the nitro shocks can be adjusted to your preferred ride hight by increasing or decreasing the pressure.

Here is a pic showing the front shocks on my rail, and a couple more for CatRunner






jakeddy Sun Nov 30, 2008 12:50 pm

Wow :shock: El Vocho, that is a NICE sand buggy!!

CatRunner Sun Nov 30, 2008 3:07 pm

Yeah, very nice!

Great to see a-arms on a smaller buggy also, who makes those? I would love to update my low travel buggy to a-arm.

khwrx Wed Dec 03, 2008 11:26 am

maybe stupid question, but im new this . are you running a a standart vw motor and tran turned around. also it looks like the shifter still comes out the nose cone. my questions what doyou use to shift it?

runslikeapenguin Wed Dec 03, 2008 1:20 pm

khwrx wrote: maybe stupid question, but im new this . are you running a a standart vw motor and tran turned around. also it looks like the shifter still comes out the nose cone. my questions what doyou use to shift it?

you use any basic VW style shifter but you have to get a mid engine shift linkage.

also that is a T1 engine from what i can tell (a very nice one) and it looks like it is mated up to a T1 transmission. when you do this though you have to flip the ring and pinion in order to get the car to have 4 forward gears.

El Vocho Thu Dec 04, 2008 1:34 pm

Penguin got it all correct exept that the engine is a type IV.



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