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Thu Apr 20, 2006 12:03 pm

Hi guys,

As well as fitting the kadron carbs to my buggy, I am also fitting a new transmission, new mexico built vw 1600 engine, new stainless exhaust, new alternator and new facet electric fuel pump.

What I want to ask is a LONG list!!! Smile

1. Do I need a crankcase breather where the stock fuel pump goes, or just a blanker plate?

2. How do I connect in the fuel regulator and fuel pump?

3. Should I assemble the engine and trans in one piece and install them that way, or should I install them as 2 seperate entitys?

4. If you look at the rear of my car on www.yellowbuggy.co.uk I think the the wheel camber is wrong. The top of the back wheel sits too far out. How do I adjust this?

5. The new transaxle that I have purchased has a different crown wheel and pinion to provide taller gearing for cruising. Was this a good idea?

6. Is there much work (what wiring) involved in changing from a stock generator to an alternator?

7. Does my old engine (a 1300 twin port AR engine) have a 180mm or 200mm flywheel, as I may have to run it with the new trans whilst I wait for my carbs and stuff to arrive from the states?

8. Is this all I need to know, how bored are you guys from reading this!!

I work mostly at Ford cars and old british land rovers and therefore do not have very much mechanical experience with bugs yet and hence need to ask these questions!

Thanks again

Alan

Thu Apr 20, 2006 2:15 pm

I can answer #6. Go to www.nls.net/mp/volks. Will answer all your wiring problems for alternator conversion.

Thu Apr 20, 2006 2:24 pm

I'll give your questions a shot:
1 A block-off plate is all that you'll need on a stock 1600
2 Wire the pump to a switched line with a fuse and the regulator downstream from the pump.
3 Not unless you like doing things the most difficult way. If your old trans is still in place, mark where the spring plates and axle flanges are bolted together. This is where the rear alignment is adjusted.
4 when you get everything bolted up then see how bad the tires sit. The added weight will change things.
5 Depends on what your old ring and pinion was and what the new one is.
6 Not a big job and it has been covered several time, although I can't remember a direct link.
7 In the US a 1300 would have a 180mm flywheel, but over there I'd guess it is 200mm. Best to check.
8 You already know the answer to that question.
I see someone ahead of me has a better memory on gen/alt links. cool!

Thu Apr 20, 2006 3:24 pm

Ok, so thanks for all the answers.

I now have a rough idea what I am doing and know that what I bought is suitable.

Am I correct in assuming then that my back suspension geometry is set via the trans?

When I take my old one out will that stuff up the geometry?

What then is the easiest way to change the transmission, presuming I leave my driveshafts and driveshaft tubes in place (I believe they are ok)

Thanks

Alan (stupid buggy owner!)

Thu Apr 20, 2006 6:26 pm

Alan, It sounds like you have a swing axle tranny, and not an IRS set-up. With the swing axle you have to unbolt the whole works to swap it out. Your geometry is dictated by the location of the axles bolted to the spring plates (there are slots in the sping plates) front to back adjustment. Also the torsion bars on the other end of the spring plates have splines that can be re-indexed for up and down adjustment. If you are going to do all this and pull the axles for the swap, you need to get a Bently manual for your year. This isn't rocket science, but there is just too much to cover in a couple of posts. Best of luck!

Fri Apr 21, 2006 12:12 am

It is swing axle, yes.

I have no intention of pulling the drives and tubes, just the transmission itself.

All I need to do is change the actual transmission, is there much work in this?

Fri Apr 21, 2006 6:15 am

#1 - you do need some sort of breather on the engine. If you have the stock oil filler, there is usually a hose that runs to the aircleaner. You may want to consider a "breather box" instead of venting oil vapor into the carb. Gener Berg seems to make the best, but it's very expensive. Lowbugget has one for around $60 that is very nice ( I have one)

#5 - tranny - I am ugrading to a "late model" swing in mine in a few weeks. Will slow down engine speed at cruise, which is a good thing. I have seen that quite a few others have the same set up.

The initial research that I have done indicates that actual process is not incredibly difficult, but its also not real easy. (couple comments about the snap rings or C-clips requiring a special tool and also difficulty with "fulcrum plates") I am winping out and having it done for me.

#6 - Going to alternator is incredibly easy - only need 2 wires - one to your idiot light and one to the battery. Makes a much cleaner looking engine.

#8 - looks like you have a lot covered, but you will find that you will keep learning about lots of stuff that you had no idea existed or was important LOL.

HOLY SMOKE - Whoever built your buggy put the steering wheel on the wrong side!!!!!!!!!!!!! (LOL)

Fri Apr 21, 2006 6:15 am

#1 - you do need some sort of breather on the engine. If you have the stock oil filler, there is usually a hose that runs to the aircleaner. You may want to consider a "breather box" instead of venting oil vapor into the carb. Gener Berg seems to make the best, but it's very expensive. Lowbugget has one for around $60 that is very nice ( I have one)

#5 - tranny - I am ugrading to a "late model" swing in mine in a few weeks. Will slow down engine speed at cruise, which is a good thing. I have seen that quite a few others have the same set up.

The initial research that I have done indicates that actual process is not incredibly difficult, but its also not real easy. (couple comments about the snap rings or C-clips requiring a special tool and also difficulty with "fulcrum plates") I am winping out and having it done for me.

#6 - Going to alternator is incredibly easy - only need 2 wires - one to your idiot light and one to the battery. Makes a much cleaner looking engine.

#8 - looks like you have a lot covered, but you will find that you will keep learning about lots of stuff that you had no idea existed or was important LOL.

HOLY SMOKE - Whoever built your buggy put the steering wheel on the wrong side!!!!!!!!!!!!! (LOL)

Fri Apr 21, 2006 7:39 am

He he he,

The steering wheel is on the correct side! Much nicer to change gear with the left hand! (I know this from driving in canada and tHe states) !!! :)

When you say breather box, what exactly do you mean? I am happy to vent the oil breather to the atmosphere!

What I need to be sure off is do I need to vent the crankcase where the mechanical fuel pump was, or is a blanker cover enough?

Would not mind seeing photos of your ride

I hope my stuff from lowbugget does not take too long to arrive!

P.s. Our weather here is always wet, today is the first warm and sunny day we have had. I am driving the bug! Yeah!

Fri Apr 21, 2006 8:27 am

Not quite sure you can remove the tranny alone on a swing axle. When I removed mine I marked the swing arm plates and the axle plates (where they bolt together) with a hacksaw, making a mark into both. That way they aligned perfectly when re-installed. The whole assembly slid out. Maybe someone knows for sure if just the tranny can come out. I can't think of a good reason to just remove the tranny. it's so much easier to remove and install the axles with the tranny already out.

Fri Apr 21, 2006 9:19 am

Hmmmm Interesting,

I see where you are coming from.

I will need to work out how to take all of this out.

Can a standard 1600 transmission run with either a 180mm or 200mm flywheel?

Sorry about all the questions but i need to know what I am doing with this.

Any instructions regarding replacing the trans are welcome

Fri Apr 21, 2006 9:38 am

Taking the trans out was easy. Support tranny with a jack. Remove the front mounting bolts, disconnect the 3 (I think 3) bolts/nuts from each torsion plate (after marking!), remove both brake lines and emergency brake cables, remove the two large bolts from the frame horns and slide it out. Not sure on the R&R sequence for the axles.
I believe the 180mm flywheel is 6 volt and you will need a 6 volt starter (correct?). Much easier to put in the 200mm. I also believe that you will need a new starter bushing unless you go with a starter from an automatic. 200mm may also require clearencing of the tranny case.

Fri Apr 21, 2006 9:59 am

I think you have cleared most of my questions up.

I currently have a 12 volt car with 1974 running gear.

It is a 1300 AR twin port engine.

I have ordered a new 12volt compatible 200mm transmission.

It is just that I may have to run my old engine with the new transmission for a while.

Hence why I needed to check on the flywheel size.

From what you are saying, I presume that I can run my old 1300 with my new transmission.

Am I right?

Fri Apr 21, 2006 10:18 am

Have a couple older pics (before major work this winter) on samba galleries- just search for pics from andk5591. Nothing fancy - its a 1970s body with original paint. We drive it when its not too cold (below 50) or raing too hard.