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Wed Aug 13, 2008 10:14 pm

Quote: This thing works great.......as good or better than new, when used properly
http://www.drilldoctor.com/
I am very curious as to how these things work.
It looks like a pencil sharpener.
I learned to sharpen drill bits properly, during my millwright apprenticeship many years ago.
I find it hard to imagine how a pencil sharpener looking unit could cut the angles, and sweeps, you need on a properly sharpened bit.
I have heard many times they work well!
Can someone enlighten me?

Sat Aug 16, 2008 7:35 pm

mallred wrote: Quote: This thing works great.......as good or better than new, when used properly
http://www.drilldoctor.com/
I am very curious as to how these things work.
It looks like a pencil sharpener.
I learned to sharpen drill bits properly, during my millwright apprenticeship many years ago.
I find it hard to imagine how a pencil sharpener looking unit could cut the angles, and sweeps, you need on a properly sharpened bit.
I have heard many times they work well!
Can someone enlighten me?

It may look like a "micky mouse" RONCO type machine but they work.

It only sharpens the points though....

They work decent... better than having a bunch of useless bits around
(not everyone is adept at old fashioned methods of sharpening bits like you may have learned in your trade/skill)

AND you can get TONS of bits CHEAP AS HELL at pawn shops and sharpen them and save a TON OF MONEY VS buying new bits all the time. Except for a few really small bits that can get broken or a very specific "lettered" or other odd sized bit... I have found pawn shops to have buckets of drill bits for sale for about 5-25 cents each!

http://www.drilldoctor.com/

http://www.drilldoctor.com/ftproot/500750X_Users%20Guide.pdf

Sat Dec 06, 2008 2:54 pm

My Eastwood spot cutter lasted about 10 welds them gave up. I switched to Dewalt Pilot point drill bit (5/16 I believe) and it worked great.

Tue Dec 09, 2008 7:43 pm

I am currently removing my rear package tray as it is rotten and i tried a 3/8 bit but it is hard to tell when to stop and i either go all the way thru or I make a dent but then have to try to pry it up and it never just pops loose..
TIPS?
How do I get it off without punching thru and not prying the crap out of around each weld. It leaves bits of metal behind that I have to grind down.

Tue Dec 09, 2008 11:20 pm

This is what worked for me.

What I did was scuffed up the spot-welds with sandpaper to make then stand out, then make sure your centered on the weld. If the bit walks on you, you may have to use a center punch. The key is to drill SLOW. Not like stupid slow but with the thin metal you don’t want to go at it high speed. With a good sharp bit, steady speed and pressure, you should be able to cut the first layer of metal with one or two full turns of the bit.

Wed Dec 10, 2008 8:29 am

duginabug wrote: This is what worked for me.

What I did was scuffed up the spot-welds with sandpaper to make then stand out, then make sure your centered on the weld. If the bit walks on you, you may have to use a center punch. The key is to drill SLOW. Not like stupid slow but with the thin metal you don’t want to go at it high speed. With a good sharp bit, steady speed and pressure, you should be able to cut the first layer of metal with one or two full turns of the bit. Use a center punch no matter what. Also, I recommend using a wire wheel on a drill to clean the sheet metal of paint, dirt, and rust. Some of those spot welds are almost invisible unless clean sheet metal is visible.

Wed Dec 10, 2008 4:00 pm

is used one of these from harbor freight when i replaced my front apron/tire tray.
3/8 is a little large but it did work very well for $4

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95343
codeman

Sun Dec 28, 2008 8:03 pm

The ones I used that looked like that often had the teeth break off.

Wed Mar 18, 2009 12:13 am

I ended up using the same one as you did there from harbor freight. Only thing is that yes the cut is pretty big. Anyone know where I could get one smaller in diameter?
I tried a drill bit also but it would barely do the job. Is there a specific bit that any of you used out there that made easy cuts?

Wed Mar 18, 2009 4:07 pm

The Harbor Freight one worked great for me. Can't beat the price, even if a tooth or two breaks off after 50 spot welds. Just grab another!

Thu Mar 19, 2009 7:37 am

I'm having success with Irwins turbomax bits. Better than pilot points. Just take your time.

Thu Mar 19, 2009 1:59 pm

Where did you get them at?

Thu Mar 19, 2009 2:28 pm

I found a set at Lowes for around 15 bucks or so. It even had a 1/2" bit with it. I use oil when I drill and I've been using the same bit for 40+ spots so far. Still sharp :)

Thu Mar 26, 2009 6:56 pm

I have one similar to this but it is made by blair. I was breaking teeth like crazy until I decided to drill a small dimmple in the middle of the weld first. The bit stopped wandering and I now get a lot of cuts out of one bit.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Thu Apr 16, 2009 5:25 pm

Well, I bought one of these a few months back, but not from Eastwood. It was from a local tool store for the price of $17.70 for a 3/8" cutter.

I works great by cutting the metal on the top layer rather than requiring both panels be cut. I recommend it over those crappy cutters with the drill bit that has the circle with teeth on it. I tried one once and it couldn't even cut butter.

Tue Jun 09, 2009 9:31 pm

I drill more spot welds than I care to remember, every day practically. This is the back , elbow and wrist saving"est" tool I've ever purchased:
http://www.dentfix.com/viewItem.asp?idProduct=17&a...SS_Capable
Nearly effortless.

Hard to swallow the price at first, but WELL worth it in the long run. A hobbyist would never wear it out if it wasnt abused. Comes with an inline oiler attached.

And if you cant get to the backside, you can remove the clamp and it still works better than any spotcutter bit out there, and I've tried every single new thing that came along on the tool trucks until I bought the spitznagel.

Second best is the style of bits posted by finefettle, a very distant second.

Larry

Sun Jun 28, 2009 4:57 pm

I'm rebuilding a 71 standard bug and I need to take the whole front end off (not worth fixing), what's the best way to get a good clean disassemble?

Mon Aug 31, 2009 11:32 am

I just bought this one.

I'll never use anything else.

Sat Oct 10, 2009 3:57 pm

The_Codeman wrote: is used one of these from harbor freight when i replaced my front apron/tire tray.
3/8 is a little large but it did work very well for $4

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95343
codeman

These are the heat for the home welder/bodyman.... $4.99 plus tax at Harbor Freight..................

Wed Oct 14, 2009 7:34 pm

jmillers62 wrote: I just bought this one.

I'll never use anything else.

I have been using these bits with a drill - very slow go and a lot of elbow grease - I just bought a Rigid impac driver

had to modify the bit a little but MAN!!!! :D :D it cut thru the metal like a hot knife cuts thru butter.