TheSamba.com Forums
 
  View original topic: Comparing stock Solex carbs to each other, and to the H30/31 Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6  Next
BrockGrimes Mon May 07, 2007 9:01 am

I looked it up and I'm wondering the distibutor I have has the vacuum can but the fittings are capped off. Is the h30/31 pict carb compatible with this distributor? I mean it runs but it's kinda ruff would the 009 be better suited for this carb?

Sorry I posted it on the previous page:
Well it's made in germany and the #'s are:
---->4ufj
0707611320
113905205an

Randy in Maine Mon May 07, 2007 9:02 am

I would just buy a better carb for it. Send a PM off to keifernet and see whatthe can do for you. Do it right and do it once.

glutamodo Mon May 07, 2007 2:16 pm

Well, that's a DVDA, and detailed on the previous page, the H30/31 does not provide the proper vacuum signal for the advance side of that distributor, or for any DVDA. Right now you're running with just the centrifugal going, and accordiing to the book, that one has 20-25 total centrifugal advance at around 3800 RPM. You'd asked if an 009 would be better - it very well might be, it'll advance about that same amount but it should get there at a lower RPM. (And as I mentioned in the intial entry of this thread, a 65-70 vacuum-only would probably be the best suited distributor for that carb. But an 009 might work out. Hard to say how well though)

BrockGrimes Mon May 07, 2007 6:32 pm

Well the distributor that I have now doesn't have any vacuum lines hooked up. I have a new 009 in a box, I'll have to take my super by a local shop and have them take a look at my current setup.

mtalley69type1 Mon May 07, 2007 8:02 pm

I'm running an H30/31 with 009 combo on my 1600 DP engine in my '69. It runs well enough if you adjust the accelerator pump for full stroke. Gets good mileage (just tanked up today and got 27 mpg combined city/rural highway). Some folks claim it is a beast to tune, but I've got mine running pretty well without many issues.

Still, I'm working on picking up an SVDA from Aircooled.net and let them dial in the advance curve for my existing carb. Might be a thought. However, if you have a new 009 in a box, it would be better than running a non-functional DVDA, for sure.

Another factor will be what jets you are running in the carb. My car is running happy right now with a 127.5 main jet, 50 idle and 65 power jets.

Ry-dog Thu Jul 05, 2007 10:21 am

This is a great post. I actually just ordered an SVDA from aircooled.net. I have a Solex H30/31 and ordered the appropriate SVDA for my carb per the aircooled.net pull down menu.

I am confused as to whether or not thier SVDAs really do work with the H30/31 as is, or do I definitely have to modify my carb to get the best benefit of the SVDA?

I am currently running a 1600SP motor with a 205AN distributor vacuum only (plugged hole for retard on H30/31 carb). I have been noticing a few issues with it, so I decided to try the aircooled.net SVDA because I have heard good things about them.

Since reading this post, I am not sure if I will notice any difference from my current configuration.

glutamodo Thu Jul 05, 2007 6:12 pm

Thanks for the kind words :)

Now, if you did not buy a modified carb from ACnet, then the answer is NO your H30/31 will not generate the proper vacuum signal for an SVDA. And like I said in my post, I tried some mods, and got something closer to a correct signal, but since I'm not a carb expert I'm sure that a lot better job of it could be done, using proper tools and test equipment. And I don't know exactly what ACnet does to the carbs they sell.

Just plugging off or maybe partially blocking off the top advance fitting might be enough, but I'm not sure of that. I guess you could try it and see!

helowrench Fri Jul 06, 2007 7:16 am

glutamodo, you might note to verify the advance canister on the distributor itself. I replaced the advance canister on my AJ dizzy (34-3 carb), removed the temporary 009, and set the AJ to the same factory specs that it lived at before it was removed originally.
When I did so, the car ran like crap, it turns out that apparently the new advance can had a different retard setting.
It was retarding the dizzy about 7 deg when the engine was at 3000.

I had to remove the retard line and cap the retard port. timed it for 30 deg max advance, idle fell in at 3deg BTD and it runs so much smoother than the 009. I will repost when I have mileage #'s for comparison.

Rob

glutamodo Fri Jul 06, 2007 2:49 pm

Yeah, good point - I've seen mix'n'matched vac cans put on distributors before. You certainly can run into some issues when that happens!

Ry-dog Sun Jul 08, 2007 7:56 am

Quick example to support your research.

I have a H30/31 paired up with a 205AN - could never get it timed properly and I couldn't figure out why. Then I came across this post.

Changed dizzys to the stock 205T, which I never ran before. WOW, what a difference - WAYY smoother, peppier and downright enjoyable to drive compared to the previous dizzy. In my mind, this supports the fact that the H30/31 cannot make the 205AH or any DVDA run properly, which was clearly stated by the original poster.

When doing some searching, I found an old post with questions about the vacuum signal for the H30/31 that was a few years old (I guess I posted it and had forgotten about it). Interesting responses which now appear to be outdated.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=92731&highlight=pict

hsosa1 Sun Aug 19, 2007 9:59 pm

30pic 1 and a 010 a good combo for a 1600dp? Im glad i ran into this post. A lot of good info.

paynogan Fri Nov 14, 2008 8:41 am

currently have a h30/31 on my 69 beetle. Idle is poor and you cant adjust the idle because the screw is not there due to an electric idle adjustment. Been thinking of going back to the pict 1 and from your info this seems like a good choice. What about mpg between the two.
good job!

li_gangyi Fri Nov 14, 2008 9:20 am

Electric idle adjustment? Can you take a picture of that? Forgive me, but I haven't seen one hooked up to a H30/31 before.

Kelley Fri Nov 14, 2008 11:23 am

He probably means the electromagnetic cutoff solenoid. I can't see how it would block the fuel/air adjustment screws, or how his car would even run if one of the screws were missing.

Paynogan, do you have pictures?

glutamodo Fri Nov 14, 2008 3:45 pm

Yeah, there is no electric idle adjustment on a H30/31. Just the idle cutoff valve, but there is an air bypass and volume screw adjacent to it. The 30PICT-1 originally had a idle cutoff valve located on the pilot jet (which is usually unnecessary in my opinion and experience) The H30 is just like the 30PICT-3, as seen here, and the idle adjustment is a combination of all three screws indicated. 1 gets set so it just barely rests on the fully-open fast idle cam, 2 is the volume screw (mixture) and 3 is the bypass (idle speed) And the procedure for the initially setting up the 34PICT-3 is about the same on the H30:




UJSLOST Sat Feb 28, 2009 8:26 pm

So I have a H30/31 carb
Dist numbers are 0231 170 036 VW#043 905 205A

According to oldvolks this is a 73-74 beetle autostick dist.


So I am gonna have problems arent I?

Should I just not run the vac advance at all?
or should i buy another stock dizzy and if so which one? or should i get a 009

Im lost here.

glutamodo Sat Feb 28, 2009 8:53 pm

Yeah, that one won't be a good one to use with the H30.

UJSLOST Sun Mar 01, 2009 8:58 am

glutamodo wrote: Yeah, that one won't be a good one to use with the H30.


would the 009 work good with it then? I know alot of ppl hate the 009 and alot of ppl love em.

glutamodo Sun Mar 01, 2009 9:24 am

Well, that 036 that you have, since the H30 won't effect the vaccum advance much, it'll act a lot like an 009 in there. However looks like it doesn't read total advance til around 3900 RPM, that's kind of high.

A centrifugal 009 - it might be OK, it might not. Me, I'd use a vac-only distributor like H30 is designed to function with.

UJSLOST Sun Mar 01, 2009 10:47 am

intresting.

So just brain stroming here and being very newbie.

What is the differance in my 036 (which if i read correctly is also a 205A autostick), and say a regular 205 which is for a manual trans?

Is it the springs and weights for the advance curve? Whats the differance in an autostick dist and a manual trans dist?

This is driving me nuts cause I am used to working on v8 american engines and distributor to carb type isnt that big of a deal. But it seems to be a very big deal on these little air cooled engines, which have really amazed me at how much differant in some aspects they are. There is more than meets the eye here !!!!! :P



Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group