TheSamba.com :: View topic - Comparing stock Solex carbs to each other, and to the H30/31

Sat Jul 23, 2011 12:35 pm

Jeff54Griffin wrote: Thanks,
I find quite a few places that sell the jets (idle and main) for 34 pict-3's.
I will use them in my h30/31.
Jeff Griffin

If you need jets now, Ovals up in Milton has them in stock...They're open on Saturday's until 3pm

-Ben

Sat Jul 23, 2011 8:53 pm

I've never seen nor heard of that base flange number before. The 126-3 came about in Feb 1969. In August 1969 all new versions of the 30PICT-2 and the new 30PICT-3 came out for various markets and applications - but for all of those they changed the base flange numbers to 2-hundred series numbers. From what I can tell, the 126 series ended in July 1969. So I don't know about this 126-4.

Mon Aug 08, 2011 8:29 pm

So what is the difference between the 205K and 205L vacuum only distributors used in conjunction with the various incarnations of the 30 Pict 1 carburetor on the 1966 and 1967 beetles?

I have an H30/31 and was wondering if a 205K or 205L would be suitable and functional? I know many people advocate the cast iron, mechanical only 010 and 019 for the H30/31, but from looking at the classifieds it seems like a 205L or 205K could be had relatively cheap (I don't think this has been asked earlier in the thread, but if I missed it I apologize in advance).

Mon Aug 08, 2011 8:53 pm

The main difference was different vacuum canisters. I think the 111905205L was older, introduced when they were using 28PICT-1, the 113905205K with the 30PICT-1. Unless you mean the 113905205L, those were the "VW" distributor, not Bosch. But they still use a similar vacuum profile as each other. Either of those should work. I'd probably lean towards the K myself, having run those for many years on my Baja.
-Andy

Tue Aug 09, 2011 6:21 am

Glutamodo,
I just installed a H30/31 that I rebuilt on my 69 autostick with a new 1776 motor. I am impressed!!! It was a bitch to set properly but it now idles at 900 as smooth as silk for the first time. I still have an 009 on it while I wait for a new vac canister for my 205P. The 009 has a small stutter if gassed quickly but runs through the different speeds just great. Your "how to" and other tips helped me a great deal, so THANKS!
Jeff Griffin

Tue Aug 09, 2011 12:28 pm

You're welcome. !

I will say one thing, I do not think that "P" distibutor will work correctly with the H30/31 - it's an SVDA and it had a special series carburetor it was matched to only on Autosticks. The vacuum advance won't pull much, if at all, so it'll mostly be running on the centrifugal (so, quite like the 009) - You can try it, but it might not be any better.

If you still have issues, I might be tempted to try an "M" vac-only distributor instead. Or mess around with modifying the carb - but at the start of this thread I did mention I tried that without the greatest of success.

Of course, your running a 1776 with it alters things somewhat. What jetting did you use, out of curiousity?

-Andy

Tue Aug 09, 2011 4:50 pm

Jetting is 130 main, 55 idle, stock 125 air. The carb was new without any main jet when I purchased it and it had a 50 idle jet. Previous owner said he could not get it to run well. Without a main jet installed I'm surprised that it ran at all if it really did. I kitted it even though the inside was absolutly clean and new.
The 205 P was recommended by someone.
What do you see as the issue with the H30/31 vac line- too small-too large, or just located wrong.
Thanks,
Jeff Griffin

Tue Aug 09, 2011 5:47 pm

The problem? That's a long answer, which I've already discussed - go back and read the very first post in this thread - it explains exactly how the H30/31 is plumbed for the vacuum signal - almost idential to the (NON-AUTOMATIC) version of the 1970 30PICT-3. I've never seen the automatic version, as to the exact size and placement of the lower advance drilling, and the lack of the upper fitting.

The "P" distributor would be best, it is Autostick, but only if you have a compatible carburetor.

-Andy

Tue Aug 09, 2011 6:05 pm

I'm told that the 30-2 that I removed is best for the 205P. As I indicated in the above post it never ran as good and smooth as the 30/31. So I find myself in this interesting spot-
Carb (30/31) works great but may not work with the P.
Carb (30-2) not so great but is best with the 205P.
009 sucks with the flat spot- I did time it at 3500 rpm.
Any reports on how the 30/31 work with the 034 Hot Spark or the aircooled.net SVDA?

I'm going to try the 205P with the 30/31 when I get the vac and then go from there.
Thanks for the advice,
Jeff

Tue Aug 09, 2011 6:21 pm

Here's my experience, others may disagree.

When I got my sedan it originally had a 30/31 with 009. Engine is supposedly 1776 (never confirmed). It ran ok but very rich with poor top end power. PO put a 140 main in it which fouled plugs and blackened the exhaust tips. Engine always seemed out of breath. I cut the main jet down several times before settling on a 120, which was not ideal but at least the plugs no longer fouled every 500 miles. I think the 30/31 is too small for a 1776.

Replaced the 009 with a new Mexican SVDA, it ran better but slight flat spot, probably due to poor vacuum to the canister. Replaced the 30/31 with a rebuilt 34 pict 3 and WOW. More power, better breathing, engine came to life. The carb currently has a 132.5 main jet, 75 air correction, and 60 idle. If traffic cooperates I can get 30-32 mpg highway.

Tue Aug 09, 2011 6:23 pm

Glutamodo,
I see in your report that you do NOT recommend this carb with either of the 034's.
So it seems that it is the 30/31 with the 009 is about the best that I can have OR
a good 30-2 with my 205P.

Jeff Griffin

Tue Aug 09, 2011 7:48 pm

Well, as I said, I might try a vac-only distributor with your H30/31. Theres a couple of reports in this thread where people tried an M or T distributor and were quite happy with them. Yours being a large engine and it being an Autostick all are extra variables though.

Your previous 30PICT-2, unless it was one of the rare Autostick variants, you'll have the exact same mismatch issues. So the question would be on that one, what was the modification state number? (base flange number on the left side)

-Andy

Wed Aug 10, 2011 6:31 am

126-2
It was original to this car and is for standard trans, which was also original to this car, 1969 bug.
I altered the carb as shown on vwar.org for the control vac with it working the autostick perfectly. No bumps,grinds,etc. It just does NOT run the car anywhere near as good as the H30/31.
I realize that because of the 1776 SP I am in unchartered waters. I follow the threads here and vwar.org to try to limit expensive false steps.
I do appreciate the help and advise.
Jeff Griffin

Wed Aug 10, 2011 9:08 pm

Andy have a question on the H30/31. You mentioned that the H30/31 has a problem running off of the upper advance port because it doesn't provide enough vacuum for proper advance. I was thinking since the bore of the H30/31 is bigger than the 30Pict 2 wouldn't that cause a drop in vacuum?

Thu Aug 11, 2011 10:05 am

It's only a slightly bigger bore - remember, the 34mm carbs provide the correct signal and those are even larger than the H30/31. And the 30PICT-2 and 30PICT-3s DID come in SVDA variants, I've just not seen one (and I went through and checked every spare carb that the shop I used to work at has lying around to see if I could find one) to know just how it's plumbed. I honestly don't know if it's just as simple as plugging off the upper fitting. It did not act properly for me when I tried it.

-Andy

Thu Aug 11, 2011 6:44 pm

I just rebuilt the H30/31 because of an idle problem. I have a 205T distributor, and with the H30/31 is ran great. Ii do think that the main jet could be gibber as you suggested on the first page. Wouldn't vacuum be higher the closer to the venturi restriction? What about bending the high down to see if it increases vacuum?

Thu Aug 11, 2011 7:54 pm

There really isn't a whole lot of bend to that pipe, not without kinking it.

The purpose of the upper advance fitting pipe thingy is to lower the vacuum, actually. It acts to spread the generation of that vacuum signal so it progressively gets higher and is not keyed totally to the throttle.

Tue Sep 27, 2011 8:35 am

This thread has prompted me to dig into my carb and dizzy setup, which has been - suffice to say - enlightening.

I've never been a big fan of the H30/31: I've always gotten piss-poor mileage with them and rich running, no matter how I tuned it or changed my driving style. (This is my own experience - there may be other issues at hand) Hopefully as I dig into this more I'll do better.

Thanks for writing all this down.

Fri Dec 02, 2011 12:58 am

Got some information I'd like to share,

Picked up a 30 PICT -2 with the base flange # VW132-2, and it does not have the small screw on the right. The casting for the screw is there, but it has not been drilled out.

The original carb that came with my car (August 1969 VW1300) has the base flange # VW237-1 and has a large adjustment screw on the right.

the carb was paired with a 111905205T distributor.

Replaced the worn out 237-1 with the 132-2 and it works fine.

regards

SD

Fri Dec 02, 2011 2:11 am

Intersting but mostly for those not in the US. As those are both 1300 carbs from after they dropped that engine here. So they are just not seen here. I've never seen either.

VW 132-2, according to my notes it's a non-US 1300 carb that was introduced 2/68 - and it supposedly does not have a power fuel system like the previous 1300 carbs.

VW 237-1 came out in 8/69 and was for manual transmission 1300. Don't know about the power fuel system on it, but I'd guess that if the previous didn't have it, neither would this one.

-Andy