TheSamba.com :: View topic

Sat Sep 09, 2006 7:59 pm

I finished up most of the work on my CB beam today and thought I'd share with those who might be looking to get one.

The beam comes narrowed 2" I narrowed it two more by trimming off the tubes. I didn't cut them down flush with the side plate because I wanted to keep the outer welds intact for strength. Before cutting, I had to tap the bushings in 1" further than they came.

I had a 66 beam that I used to get torsion slats and trailing arms from. To fit the torsion slats, I installed them - using the center adjuster to line them up in the beam. Then I measured two inches at the ends of each side and cut. used vise grips to clamp the slats together outside the beam end while cutting for stability.

Installing the trailing arms was the only tricky part. The later trailing arms (64-67) don't fit in the bakelight bushings that come in the beam. Thanks to Rizzag for telling me that you have to remove the extra sleeve that is on the arm. I've outlined the sleeve with a red box in the picture. You can press it off, try heating it, or do like I did: use your cut off wheel to split it and watch it fall off. :) Be careful not to slice into the trailing arm. :)

Once the arms were ready to install I just greased them up and slid them on- a little tapping to make sure the arms are seated on the slats. All I have left to do is drill out the "dimples" in the slats where the grub screws go in. Anyone know what size bit to use?

Sun Sep 10, 2006 12:42 am

Thanks for the pics.

Do the trailing arms fit well in the bushings?

This beam seems well priced and looks to be pretty good quality from the pictures I've seen. How is the fit and finish? How are the welds and material thickness?

Thanks again for the pics.

Sun Sep 10, 2006 4:34 am

Kewl stan! What year is the bus in the background? Is it the bus getting the lowering treatment?

Sun Sep 10, 2006 7:13 am

The beam is super solid - a really good deal for the money I think. For the time it would take narrow it yourself, $300 is a good deal. The bushings were fine once I could slide the torsion arms in all the way - no issues.

Anthony - the bus is the background is a customers 21 window at the shop i work at. I'll have to post a pic of the shop sometime - make everyone sick. :)

Sun Sep 10, 2006 9:36 pm

Finsihed up the rest today. I have to admit, seeing how just the screws with jam nuts hold the trailing arms in place scares the crap out of me! But it's held all my other buses together without me knowing it. :) Here's a couple of pics of the finished beam. My bus will be black over silver (Vegas Bling Style) so I did the beam in silver for contrast against the black undercoating. Thanks again to everyone who helped me figure this thing out! Now if I can just get that package from Skim....... :wink:

Sun Sep 10, 2006 9:47 pm

I bought one too. One thing... how will the shocks mount on top? There are holes but they are not threaded. I have`nt really messed with it yet.

Sun Sep 10, 2006 9:55 pm

bolt and nut brother :wink:

Sun Sep 10, 2006 10:02 pm

Thats weak, It`ll never stay tight like that. The hole should be tapped with threads or there should be a stud coming out of the shock tower.

Sun Sep 10, 2006 10:14 pm

You could always weld the nut to the back of the plate if it makes you feel better.

Sun Sep 10, 2006 11:47 pm

Bryan67 wrote: Thats weak, It`ll never stay tight like that. The hole should be tapped with threads or there should be a stud coming out of the shock tower.

Why should a nut and bolt come loose?, thats how they are on bay beems, use a nylock or a spring washer.

:wink:

Mon Sep 11, 2006 7:29 am

Stan, could you do me a favor and measure the angle of the link arms on your beam? I have an adjustable beam set up by Jason at Rust Box and had to cut off the upper shock housing to fit the shock without rubbing (basically now an exposed shaft shock now). I'm curious to know if the link angles were altered since I see some weld marks on them.....It rides fine now although I'm trying to figure out what to do in the future when I have to replace shocks....

Mark

Mon Sep 11, 2006 2:07 pm

markyb wrote: Stan, could you do me a favor and measure the angle of the link arms on your beam? I have an adjustable beam set up by Jason at Rust Box and had to cut off the upper shock housing to fit the shock without rubbing (basically now an exposed shaft shock now). I'm curious to know if the link angles were altered since I see some weld marks on them.....It rides fine now although I'm trying to figure out what to do in the future when I have to replace shocks....Mark

Run a spacer on the top...

Stan3 wrote: Now if I can just get that package from Skim.......

Does that mean your getting some Earlies :!: ....

Mon Sep 11, 2006 3:57 pm

I can't, there's no way to get the link arm off (short of cutting it off), it's completely welded over on the torsion ends...must have been one of Jason's early jobs.......

Mon Sep 11, 2006 5:26 pm

markyb wrote: I can't, there's no way to get the link arm off (short of cutting it off), it's completely welded over on the torsion ends...must have been one of Jason's early jobs.......

Trailing arm?.... The leaves are welded on the ends?.....Your wanting to run a shock and it won't fit the top....so your wanting to kick the top out towards the wheel right?....run a spacer between the shock and the beam...not trailing arm and beam...

Mon Sep 11, 2006 5:28 pm

I've had my cb beam in about a month and a half.
I also had mine cut down to a 4". So far a great beam

The only problem was my grease fittings didn't fit.
I evently found some at a local u-pull-it.

Also I'm not running any shocks up front but the
ride is smooth.

For the price this is the best deal going IMHO

Thanks goes out to Mike and Tanya at Foreign Policy.

Tom

Mon Sep 11, 2006 5:33 pm

I still have 2 CB beams left in stock if anybody needs one

Mon Sep 11, 2006 5:45 pm

krusher wrote: Bryan67 wrote: Thats weak, It`ll never stay tight like that. The hole should be tapped with threads or there should be a stud coming out of the shock tower.

Why should a nut and bolt come loose?, thats how they are on bay beems, use a nylock or a spring washer.

:wink:

they are nut and bolt on late split beams as well.

Mon Sep 11, 2006 6:01 pm

hi tom! its me shannon!! small world :D any way i just wanted to tell every one i was at tkelley's today and he has one bada$$ single that foreign policy helped put together, it has the same adj beam your all talking about, flipped spindles, swing axels, smart tires and is SLAMMED it is soooo nice that i took pictures of it ,it is a total hoodride- rat racer! im thinking of getting the same set up if i get my hands on one more bus. or on the one i have now.

Mon Sep 11, 2006 6:11 pm

any way today after seeing tkelly's single cab with that same cb beam 4 inch narrowed i got to thinking if the cb beam could be modified for airbags do-it-yourself style, and if so you wouldnt need the shocks? i was thumbing through an import tunner mag and the air bag control systems are not that exspensive now that so many people are doing it.

Mon Sep 11, 2006 6:19 pm

if you have the capabilities to build an air ride beam, why buy an expensive core to start out? you could just build one out of your stock beam.