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Sun Sep 24, 2006 7:34 pm

Can anyone out there advise what the normal running oil pressure should be for a 2.7 Liter engine for a 1976 911? Thanks! :D

Sun Oct 21, 2007 8:14 am

I am no expert on these engines but I have the same one you do in a 75 911S. It seems that 10 lbs for every 1000 rpm is about right on a hot well functioning engine, with it maxing out at around 30-40 maybe less . It may also drop to zero idling when warm. There are people who will say the engine is tired or there is bearing failure of oil pressure is too low. Maybe, but if oil temp valves are opening and the system is clean with a good cooler and the oil temperature stays reasonable (180-200) you are probably OK. More important is clean oil, valve adjustment, and general noises. Timing chain issues also. If this car of yours still has thermal reactors for smog control, heat issues can be very real. Talk to knowledgeable people about those and the alternatives where you live.

Sun Oct 21, 2007 12:24 pm

I've read that some people recommend installing a set of oil line restrictors to boost the oil pressure. Anyone have experience with installing them?

Sun Oct 21, 2007 6:35 pm

I jst did that. It is recommened my factory, to increae oil pressure that is lost on cam throws. Cheap, easy, and it helped.

Mon Nov 05, 2007 8:59 pm

I bought the restrictor kit a while back, but haven't yet had a chance to install them due to the other urgent items needing attention on my 911. Here in Tucson, it can get pretty hot in the summer, and my knee-jerk reaction to seeing low oil pressure at idle is to think something is wrong. Fortunately, my engine does not have the thermal reactors, so at least that is not an issue. It is a pretty tired engine though, with leakdown test results that I'd rather not think about. I'm actually thinking about doing a 3.0 or a 3.2 swap out in the near future, as I've been told by many that the 2.7 isn't a real good candidate for a rebuild. The restrictors would be an interim solution.

Mon Nov 05, 2007 10:11 pm

I have an 1980/3.0 with 89 miles on complete top end rebuild, updated tessioners, and stainless boxes, new starter, and exhaust. $6500.

Stephen www.route30classics.com

Tue Nov 06, 2007 9:37 am

If the 2.7 has been taken care of it should last a long time. The 2.7 motors get a bad rap due to the head stud failures. But if they have been maintained then they should be good to go. My 2.7 had about 145K miles on it when it crapped out.

I have a 76 as well. I swapped out the 2.7 to a 3.0 in 2001 or 2002. I recently had a connecting rod fail on the 3.0 I put in. It cracked the case so my 3.0 is nonrebuildable. I put about 60K miles on the 3.0. (I like to drive my car a lot) I was able to locate another motor and I am now in the process of putting a 3.2 in my 76. :D It's loads of fun. Actually its not real bad. Luckily its been done before so I have some guys to bounce questions off of. If you are just planning on going to a 3.0 you don't have to do much to the car, depending on what year motor. I think when I went to the 3.0 it was fuel pump, fuel filter, and accumulator, motor and roll. The 3.2 swap is a little more complicated, as it has additional wiring for the DME and the related parts on the 3.2. It also different fuel lines, filter, pump (not real sure if the 3.0 pump will work or not), tranny hast to be notched, new wiring for the ignition. It's not quite as plug and play as the 3.0 but not nearly as complicted as a 3.2 install would be.

I can try to answer any questions that you have. Hope that helps.