TheSamba.com :: View topic

Sat Jun 06, 2009 1:32 am

Thanks desert-craft.com

Now i can do a mockup.

Wed Jun 10, 2009 11:24 am

OK, Clue me in to how the above hardware comes into play. Looks like the large piece is a stiffener/adaptor used along side the spring plate or is it actually the new spring plate? and the smaller flange is for an axle tube stiffener??

Wed Jun 10, 2009 12:35 pm

Quote: If you understand how the no hop works they are pretty simple to build. You will however have to completely disassemble your gear boxes and press the tubes off to get the "over axle tube" onto the original axle tube and also shorten the axle tube snout on the inner gear case half to make the spring plate line up correctly. Also since your present spring plates bolt under the axle to the gearbox you will need to set it up like a type one with the axle tube going through the spring plate. (type 1 spring plate)

actually did this to mine and welded a 3 bolt style flange to the RGB like the type 2 box, so that i could use a stock t1 spring plate

Sat Jun 20, 2009 7:48 am

Hotratz, It is a new sprigplate. It is designed to go over the housing instead of machining off about 1" per side. The small triangular plate is part of the adapter that clamps to the axle tube. I still need to have the collar made that will weld to it. I like your kit but i'm trying to go for the "BOLT ON" route to see what happens.

thanks...Mark

Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:26 am

I had thoughts about a spring plate like that also and it's a good idea. It might even add enough torsional resistance to dampen some of the wheel hop tendencies. Just wondering what type of steel was used or if you had to do any heat treating to get the right torsional characteristics? Make sure to post some pics of the install.

Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:49 pm

they were cut from A36...i need A568? , according to research. I think i will heat treat the A36 to 1200-1400F and quench in oil. What do you think?

I ran into an obstacle today...the snubber mount, just ground off the welds and took out the bolt. Then ground off the pedestal as needed. This was an oversight on my part. I thought the housing was completely round.

I will post pics as soon as i have them bolted on.

Thanks.

Tue Jun 23, 2009 6:25 am

I'm no metallurgist but you're on the right track. Is this the portion of the housing you were talking about?

Tue Jun 23, 2009 1:43 pm

Are you guys tightening in a criss-cross pattern for those boxes? Maybe a but of gasket sealer?

Tue Jun 23, 2009 7:05 pm

Yes...that's the spot! I took out my grinder to it a little. I am going to hunt bolts today to test fit. Those 1.5 pitch bolts are hard to find here in the islands.

Tue Jun 23, 2009 8:30 pm

hotratz wrote: I'm no metallurgist but you're on the right track. Is this the portion of the housing you were talking about?

I'm not sure if I missed a post, but what is being done in this picture?

Tue Jun 23, 2009 9:42 pm

thefladge wrote: I'm not sure if I missed a post, but what is being done in this picture?

The housing needs to be clearanced there so that when the tube the spring plate is bolted to rotates the bolts don't foul the housing.

Edit: Wait, you knew that all ready. Its mounted to a rotary table on a mill to make a really nice radius cut around the axle boss. The ball nose endmill is a nice touch also. Damn machinists can use a grinder like everyone else. :lol:

Wed Jun 24, 2009 6:14 am

The reason I had to clearance that casting was if I use my adapters in the 45º position one bolt interferes in that location. Mine don't move in relationship to the spring plate like yours will but still necessary if I re-index.

BTW, I'm not a machinist. I'm a metal carver :lol: And believe me, I've done my share of grinding :x

Wed Jun 24, 2009 6:20 am

tundrawolf wrote: Are you guys tightening in a criss-cross pattern for those boxes? Maybe a but of gasket sealer?

Yes, I used a gasket and sealed with Durco. Good stuff

Thu Jun 25, 2009 2:27 pm

I have to disagree with some of you guys. I have been running the piss out of my bug for three years now with absolutely no problems with the reduction boxes. Other than less travel than an IRS it works great. The torque is unreal and the suspension is smooth and soft. I have 16 in. of clearance with two people in the car and it climbs real good. Gear reduction at the wheels reduces the load on the transaxle that is why the monster trucks do it, without it they snap their drive shafts. I am running a rather unique no hop kit that totally eliminates the hop. With this kit the axle tubes slide through a tube stiffener that is bolted to the spring plates. The redux boxes have an arm that connects to the torsion bar tube.

Thu Jun 25, 2009 7:06 pm

Thanks derwood38 for posting those pictures. It has finally come to me how the no hop kits work. I have been strugling with this for months (have not turned a wrench yet, just thought process right now).

I could not figure out that the swing tube rotated inside of the stiffner and the spring plate was not directly bolted to the RGB. I could not get pass the binding up thought.

Duh...

The shot with greese coming out the stiffner onto the axle tube triggered a thinking moment.

Now I am thinking that one could just change out the lower hiem joint bar for a slightly longer versions and slightly lay the RGB down to gain some clearence between the tire and the front part of the wheel well near the torsion cap.

Thu Jun 25, 2009 7:19 pm

Derwood has a regular Jonny Johnson no hop kit.

And yes, you can put a longer arm on them and lay the boxs down a little. This will change the geometery some, but if you don't get carried away you shouldn't notice.

Thu Jun 25, 2009 9:12 pm

You are correct it is a Johnson no hop kit! I still have the original arms but the bushings were gone when I got it. I welded 3/4 in. nuts on the ends of some heavy duty pipe and used hem joints. Now the arms are adjustable. 2+ inches of adjustment.

Thu Jun 25, 2009 9:53 pm

The bushings were wasted in mine also, went with uniballs.....

Fri Jun 26, 2009 11:45 am

If you put a longer arm on remember to loosen your axle boot and re-tighten after install. you don't want your boot twisted.

Fri Aug 14, 2009 11:22 am

hotratz did you finish the RGB adapters you were working on? Like to know how they performed.