| dmaxben |
Mon Feb 19, 2007 1:27 pm |
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alright sorry if Im repeating anything, ive read this thread a dozen times, and I have Jeff Hibbard's baja book on the way, but still have a couple questions.
have an offroad 68 swing axle type 1. If I had IRS parts close by, id do that swap, but theres nothing near me, so I figured Id do the RGB's. Its not a serious cliff jumper, just something to mess around with offroad (will not be driven onroad) that Id like a little more rear clearence with; and to match the front lift spindles I made.
So ANY (58-67) bus reduction boxes will bolt onto my stock 1968 swing axle type 1 transmission? I dont really care whether its big nut or small nut boxes, as long as either will bolt onto my stock axle tubes and spring plates. Will my stock rear drums and backing plates (wheels are 4x130mm bolt pattern) bolt onto any bus redux boxes?
Im assuming I will have to...
1. flip the ring gear in the trans so I dont go backwards
2. maybe make some custom plate to properly mount the boxes to the bug spring plates
other than that the type 1 brakes, backing plates, axle tubes, etc will all work fine correct?
option 2 being that most people in the classifieds section will only sell the redux boxes WITH the transmission. If I do that is there any advantage to just running the entire bus trans? I think they had 4.37 RP vs. the type 1 4.12 correct? I would have to change the nose cone, and maybe grind the bellhousing to fit my 12volt flywheel?
thanks again for the help :oops:
ben |
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| bajabugman66 |
Mon Feb 19, 2007 10:16 pm |
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| to do the bus trans swap, its pretty much a direct bolt in other than the plates that hold the redux boxes on. |
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| merc |
Tue Feb 20, 2007 12:30 am |
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Yes, If you add the RGB's to a type 1 tranny, you'll have to flip the diff and Ring gear.
Yes you'll have to fab some plates/adapters to mount the boxes onto the spring plates.
I'm not 100% on the rest of your ?'s. |
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| dmaxben |
Tue Feb 20, 2007 10:24 am |
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awesome thanks for the help, looks like it shouldnt be too hard...ive built allison auto truck transmissions but never touched any manual...hopefully I wont screw anything up... :lol:
ben |
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| thrown_hammer |
Wed Aug 01, 2007 6:42 am |
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I finally got the drums off the small nut trans. I am letting all the bolts soak with penetrating oil before I continue. Looks like I need to replace all the brake hardware. My plan is to have the redux swap done before next spring. Slow and steady…
8) Anyone else have any updates? |
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| hotratz |
Mon Mar 23, 2009 6:20 am |
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Just thought I'd add another RGB adaptor to this thread. These are still experimental. They are indexable for three positions. Upright, 45º and lay-down. (lots of time on my hands ha ha)
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| joescoolcustoms |
Mon Mar 23, 2009 7:09 am |
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| Alright hotratz , Where did you get them and how can I get them too? |
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| ppp |
Mon Mar 23, 2009 7:20 am |
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oh yes!!! i would buy a pair also. Any info?
can you make the axle tube piece into 2 parts with bolts on top as shown and a set on the bottom? So i won't have to remove the axle tubes.
what shocks are you going to run with those adapters? |
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| allanb4570 |
Mon Mar 23, 2009 7:21 am |
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| nice, real nice job hotratz! Keep us informed on how they work! |
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| hotratz |
Mon Mar 23, 2009 11:21 am |
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joescoolcustoms wrote: Alright hotratz , Where did you get them and how can I get them too?
The concept and fabrication are my own. I'm really not interested at this time in making any more. Primarily because they have not been tested. You are free to look over the build pictures if you'd like and copy them. Adaptor Build
ppp wrote: can you make the axle tube piece into 2 parts with bolts on top as shown and a set on the bottom? So i won't have to remove the axle tubes.
You have to press the tubes out to get the index plate over the tube anyway plus you have to cut 1" off the housing snout were the tube presses into so the spring plates fall in the right axis location. Otherwise the spring plates would be drastically bowed in and probably wouldn't bolt up. I'm still researching the shock thing |
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| joescoolcustoms |
Mon Mar 23, 2009 1:24 pm |
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I understand hotratz.
I am in the Gotta, Wanta, Needa stage right now and really like your style of adapter. I like keeping the springplate in its stock position.
Shock mount is easy. Run a peice of flat steel from the OG RGB shock hole to the forward spring plate bolt. Drill/weld the lower shock mount where needed on the flat steel.
I can fab this same adapter and it will be just as strong and just as functional, but will not look as good as yours.
Keep us posted. |
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| hotratz |
Mon Mar 23, 2009 2:19 pm |
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| Yeah, I was looking at doing something just like that for the lower shock mount. The problem is it'll only be good in the upright position. If you use the other positions something different will have to be incorporated. All pretty minor concerns right now. I'm just glad to have them done and on the car at this point. :lol: |
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| Jason C |
Mon Mar 23, 2009 4:31 pm |
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| Interesting approach. Looks like alot of thought went into them. Keep us updated on how they do. |
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| thefladge |
Mon Mar 23, 2009 4:54 pm |
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Those adapters are awesome! I like the way you can set the reduction boxes at different positions.
I'm just wondering how strong they will be with those aluminum spacers. The original Johnson adaptors were all welded steel with the spacers being all part of the adapters. I'm sure you'll find out how strong they are once you put them to the test.
I have John Johnson laydown adapters on my car. I've also used the upright adapters and the no hop kit in the past. I made my own brace bars and shock mounts.
Pictures taken during assembly:
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| hotratz |
Mon Mar 23, 2009 7:13 pm |
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Yes, I'll be doing frequent inspections. The spacers are 6061 T6 alum. As long as I get proper torque on the bolts I'm not worried about the spacers.
The Johnson adapters were built for all out race. These are more of a recreational style. I tried to make the whole package as light as I could and retain a fair amount of strength. Time will tell. Sometimes you need to build a straw horse, try it out and improve until you have something that works. |
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| thefladge |
Mon Mar 23, 2009 7:37 pm |
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You might be able to make some money if you manufacture those adapters (after testing them).
I worked at a few VW part shops back in the '90's and people were always calling us for reduction box adapter kits for their Baja Bugs. We didn't sell them and nobody was making them at the time. |
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| dcamomanx |
Mon Mar 23, 2009 9:08 pm |
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I was just wondering why did you change out the no hop kit? Did you have problems with them? What were your concerns?
I have and old no hop kit and wanted to use them but wanted to know how they handled
Thanks Doran |
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| hotratz |
Tue Mar 24, 2009 6:11 am |
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dcamomanx wrote: I was just wondering why did you change out the no hop kit? Did you have problems with them? What were your concerns?
I have and old no hop kit and wanted to use them but wanted to know how they handled
Thanks Doran
If your asking me, I've never had a No-hop kit. When I decided to make these I wasn't aware of how the no hop worked. I also wasn't sure if I wanted upright or lay down adapters so I made them indexable. If you have a No Hop kit you should be happy with them. |
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| strohma |
Tue Mar 24, 2009 4:21 pm |
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| Silly question but does any one have pictures of a No Hop kit. I like Bugzilla style adaptors. Do you use a no hop kit with those? |
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| mtnroads |
Tue Mar 24, 2009 4:34 pm |
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I beleive the no hop kit was a stand alone conversion kit to put RGB trans into bugs. Here are some pic's of my buggy with bugzylla adaptors.
these were taken before front end cut & turn. |
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