TheSamba.com :: View topic

Tue Mar 24, 2009 5:07 pm

Here is a picture of the No Hop kit I used to have in my Baja.

The arrow points to the "traction" bar that reaches from the mount on the reduction box to brackets welded to the torsion housing.

Here is a picture from the Hibbard book.

Tue Mar 24, 2009 8:55 pm

Actually...none of the so called "No Hop Kits" i have seen on here look correct. They all look like they will bind the suspension arch. None of them are setup with the coerrect pivot points to even achieve a parallelogram. Just my 2 engineering cents. I assume your trying to achieve a four link or ladder bar type system...correct?

Tue Mar 24, 2009 9:07 pm

ppp wrote: Actually...none of the so called "No Hop Kits" i have seen on here look correct. They all look like they will bind the suspension arch. None of them are setup with the coerrect pivot points to even achieve a parallelogram. Just my 2 engineering cents. I assume your trying to achieve a four link or ladder bar type system...correct?

your forgetting these are on swing axle cars, not IRS. the direction in which the suspension pivots is different.

Tue Mar 24, 2009 9:07 pm

is a parallelogram achievable with a swingaxle suspension?

Wed Mar 25, 2009 5:48 am

Don't forget that the axle tube pivots in it's mount with the No Hop kit. The tube that fits over it is bolted to the spring plate, but not the axle tube itself.

Wed Mar 25, 2009 6:37 am

yes i know it has two directions of pivot. The link for the No Hop must contain a heim at both ends ...mayhbe even some of those bushings that increase the amount of rotational angle. But that length rotation has to be the exact same as the spring plate or it will bind.

Sancat...want to design a springplate cap that retains the stock rubber bushing and a pocket of some sort towards the outside that will accept a high degree 3/4" heim?

I will model one in 3D this weekend if i can find some time.

It would be nice if you could cure the hop with just shocks...maybe?

Wed Mar 25, 2009 11:30 am

ppp wrote: But that length rotation has to be the exact same as the spring plate or it will bind.

No actually, draw a line between the spring plate pivot and the axle tube pivot point, this is you pivot axis. Since the no hop bars are mounted inboard of the spring plates, they must be a little shorter to be on the axis between the 2 pivot points. Also, you don't really want a parallelogram. No 4 links are set up this way, you need a certain amount of anti-squat to counter act the weight shift under acceleration.

Sat Apr 04, 2009 11:36 pm

Heres a pic of My JJ no hop kit with uniballs replacing the bushings.

Fri Apr 17, 2009 9:54 pm

here's my reduction setup.

and my baja with 33s :D

I am also considering get rid of this setup and going irs.

Sat Apr 18, 2009 12:15 am

I should have run a no hop kit. Broken spring plates are lame.

Mon Apr 20, 2009 6:20 am

Not to totally change the subject but what park brake cables are you guys using for the lay down configuration. Or any configuration for that matter?

Mon Apr 20, 2009 7:10 am

hotratz wrote: Not to totally change the subject but what park brake cables are you guys using for the lay down configuration. Or any configuration for that matter?

X2

Will the standard beetle unit work in the upright position? I would think the lay down position will require a little longer unit.

Mon Apr 20, 2009 1:15 pm

I have 56? cables in mine which are supposed to be the longest available. They were still about an inch on the short side. I had the old ones still so I cut the ends off and attached them to the new ones with some cable clamps. So far so good......

Tue Apr 21, 2009 7:10 am

So my rail has a big nut rgb trans setup,and bus torsion housing.(Look Ma, no adapters!). Anyone have plans ,or a kit, for a no-hop set-up? I have a 1915 in my rail,and run 33x12.5x15's. Great acceleration,great climber,hop sux!
thanks,Paul

Tue Apr 21, 2009 9:39 am

If you understand how the no hop works they are pretty simple to build. You will however have to completely disassemble your gear boxes and press the tubes off to get the "over axle tube" onto the original axle tube and also shorten the axle tube snout on the inner gear case half to make the spring plate line up correctly. Also since your present spring plates bolt under the axle to the gearbox you will need to set it up like a type one with the axle tube going through the spring plate. (type 1 spring plate)

Fri Apr 24, 2009 7:54 pm

bdkw1 wrote: I have 56? cables in mine which are supposed to be the longest available. They were still about an inch on the short side. I had the old ones still so I cut the ends off and attached them to the new ones with some cable clamps. So far so good......

I use the same cables, but I switched the backing plates. Left on the right side. Right on the left side. The cable doesn't have reach as far.

Sat Apr 25, 2009 8:36 am

thefladge wrote:

I use the same cables, but I switched the backing plates. Left on the right side. Right on the left side. The cable doesn't have reach as far.

That's a great idea for laydown orientation!

Tue Apr 28, 2009 8:49 am

When I was cleaning the inside half of my RGB to prepare to install the "expensive" rebuild kit, I ran into a problem. Once I got all the oil, dirt, and silicone off the housing I now have quite a bit of movement between the axle tube and housing. It looks like to me the the PO did a crummy job at pressing on and off the axle tube and tried to seal up some seriose leaking with silicone. I'm thinking that I wil continue to put it all back together and one the axles and all is in the car I will tack the housing to the tube then pull it out so that I can get a good weld on it all. Is this a bad idea or what do you guys recommend?

Tue Apr 28, 2009 9:32 am

Quote: I'm thinking that I wil continue to put it all back together and one the axles and all is in the car I will tack the housing to the tube then pull it out so that I can get a good weld on it all. Is this a bad idea or what do you guys recommend?

I recommend looking until you find why it is loose. If you cannot fix it, get another RGB box side. Many avaliable from this site in classifieds.

Allthough a mild steel tube can be welded to a cast iron part, I think you are putting a band-aid on a problem that will haunt you later.

Tue Apr 28, 2009 11:19 am

johnsonusn wrote: I now have quite a bit of movement between the axle tube and housing.

Wow, There should be no movement at all. When I pressed my tubes off I had to heat them and use every bit of 20 tons that my press would supply.
Pressing them back on was tight to. If it was mine to decide I'd be looking for another tube and housing. I'm wondering if the P/O decided to hog out the hole for a slip fit rather than pressing them back on or if excessive wheel hop wallowed it out and made it sloppy? You can weld them if you like. The housings are cast steel not iron. Once you do this it'll be tougher to get your adapters off in the future.