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Sun Nov 26, 2006 7:37 pm

1965 Kombi. My locks all work on the door locks, that is, the key goes in and does turn in the lock. But I can't seem to lock any of the doors. I can turn the key almost 90 deg in the lock, either way, but can't pull it out in the apparently locked position or find any other way to get the doors to lock. Seems like what it wants to do is have the key turn 90 and then pull out, but that's not happening.

How is it supposed to work? Ok... sounds like a stupid question, I realize this, but never having had a bus before I have no idea how the door locking is supposed to work.

Sun Nov 26, 2006 7:42 pm

will it lock by pushing it into the lock position, and then shutting the door while pinching the handle?

Sun Nov 26, 2006 8:08 pm

Matt Wilson wrote: will it lock by pushing it into the lock position, and then shutting the door while pinching the handle? No. If I turn the key, it does slide up a mechanism in the latching device in the door, but as soon as I push in the knob on the handle, (The knob is harder to push in, but it can be pushed in) that mechanism slips back down.

If I turn the key, slide that mechanism up and then just close the door, it does the same thing as pushing the knob.

Now... mind you... I also cannot lock the cargo door (no push button) and the rear hatch (push button also). Those are essentially the same deal: turn the key, not quite 90 deg, but can't pull it out.

Mon Nov 27, 2006 5:58 am

To lock/unlock a 65:
Side cargo door .. insert key and rotate 180* degree to lock. reverse to unlock.
If this does not work... remve cargo door handle (screw holding inner hande on) and slide collar off... try key again... there should be a pin on the handle shaft that slides out when you lock the handle... it shoud slide into a slot in the collar, which keeps the handle frm turning when istalled... sometimes this spacing on the collar needs adjustmnet as the soft 'shims' go missing between door/collar/handle

Rear hatch... key should turn 180*

front doors... insert key horizontal. twist one way ~45* to lock, other way 45* to unlock.

Front doors push button the key cylinder has a L tang screwed to it. If the tang is missing or brken it does not activate the door lock mechanism. The Ls for the 67 handles are different than 64-66, and the 67 ones are fragile and break easier, when fighting a sticky door mechanism. I like smooth slick locks, and if the front door mechanisms don't work smoothly, it's nice to remove clean/lube them, or at least spray a bunch of pb blaster at them and get them ungummed up. That claw that holds the door closed on the striker plate... if you put it vertical and push the door button it should spring out energetically. Lightly grease the claw where it hits the striker plate.

Mon Nov 27, 2006 7:48 am

Hey If you want bring your bus over and we can work on it. I'm over by the casinos. 860-208-8132

Mon Nov 27, 2006 10:27 am

On my '65 SC, the key slot is horizontal, just like Clara said. I put the key in, turn 45*, then back to horizontal, remove key. Turn other way to unlock. Locking was kind of hit or miss before I removed the latch assembly from the door and cleaned/lubed it. Now it works great. Before cleaning, I would reach in through the open window, push down on the interior handle and slide the window shut. Locking with the door open won't work because when the latch engages on the striker plate, it unlocks the door. New VWs do the same thing, it prevents locking yourself out.

Edited for stupidity.

Mon Nov 27, 2006 8:11 pm

I love you guys. 8) Have I told you that lately?

Rear Hatch: Works perfectly.
Cargo door: Collar was in upside down. Duh. its also worn and has a tendency to spin out of line a little, so that doesn't help. Ordering a new one.
Driver door: Works as described, thanks Clara! The door has a problem latching to begin with due to busted lower hinge, and if its not fully latched it opens, locked or not. But so long as I've got it latched good, it works.
Pass door: This one is a problem. Must be something wrong with the locking mechanism. It goes up as it should when I turn the key, but I can force it to open by pushing (with a little more force than normal) on the door push button. I need to compare it to the driver's side which works right to see what's different, (but its late and I'm getting that sleepies feeling.) The only thing I've noticed about the pass. side is that when I turn the key to lock, it pushes up on the locking mech in the door but at the last moment the lock "L" thingy slips off the mechanism. I've tried pushing up on the mechanism but it don't go no further. But there is something definitely not right with that latch/lock on the inside, coz the key part works fine (I would have expected it to, Gabriel did it all over for me!)

Thanks all!

WM971252 wrote: Hey If you want bring your bus over and we can work on it. I'm over by the casinos. 860-208-8132 Can you fix carburetors? If so I may take you up on that.

coolerthanelvis wrote: Edited for stupidity. Oh! ... if only life had that option.
:roll:

Tue Nov 28, 2006 10:03 am

Your passenger side has the exact same symptoms that mine had before cleaning and lubing. You will be surprised at how well it will work afterwards. Just lock it from the inside until it's fixed.

Tue Nov 28, 2006 11:11 am

"Can you fix carburetors? If so I may take you up on that. "

Sorry body work is more my thing. Got ton's of part carbs though

Tue Nov 28, 2006 5:15 pm

coolerthanelvis wrote: Your passenger side has the exact same symptoms that mine had before cleaning and lubing. You will be surprised at how well it will work afterwards. Just lock it from the inside until it's fixed. I think I have a different problem. I cannot keep the door locked no matter what. I can engage the locking mechanism with the inner handle up OR with the key. Both acheive the same result in that the mechanism goes into lock position. The problem is that regardless how I get it into lock position, the push button can still unlock it, albeit with more pressure required than a normal open.

In fact, if I do it carefully, the first attempt at pressing the knob to open the door will not unlock it. But the second press will.

I lubed it all with PB blaster, and the only effect was to make it unlock even easier. :?

Is there a detailed exploded view of how the locking mechanism actually works in there? I have a real hard time seeing in enough to see what's not preventing that push button from getting pushed in when in the locked position as compared to the working driver's side.

Sat Aug 02, 2008 5:43 pm

I am bumping this thread up as it seemed like it had the most information, but I am still having a problem that I cannot figure out.

So here is the problem. I can lock my side cargo door from the inside with the flip switch on the locking mechanism, but when I try to lock it with the key, it will not lock. I have pulled it apart and checked that the cylinder is sliding in and out of the outer collar, but when I put it back into the door it will not lock. I can turn the key 180 degrees and the latch will stay unlocked.

I am wondering if the pin that slides into the collar is too short, or if I have an aftermarket collar and it is turning in the door hole. It is squared off on two sides and it seems to be holding, but I am in a dilemna about this. I am getting tired of having to lock the door from the inside.
Help, please!
Thanks!

Sat Aug 02, 2008 7:26 pm

If you lock the cargo doors with the little lever from the inside, you can't unlock it from the outside.

Sat Aug 02, 2008 8:25 pm

tony1 wrote: If you lock the cargo doors with the little lever from the inside, you can't unlock it from the outside.

Thanks, yeah that I know! I am attempting to figure out why my key won't lock the door, even though the pin is sliding into the outer collar.
It is messin' with my head, because usually I can figure these thing out.
I am wondering that maybe the collar is the problem?

Sat Aug 02, 2008 11:05 pm

If you take the complete door handle and collar off and lock it, can you turn the collar by hand once it's locked?

If the pin is sliding out into the collar, you should not be able to turn the handle, the pin will hit the collar.

Sun Aug 03, 2008 7:31 am

EverettB wrote: If you take the complete door handle and collar off and lock it, can you turn the collar by hand once it's locked?

If the pin is sliding out into the collar, you should not be able to turn the handle, the pin will hit the collar.

It is sliding into the collar when apart, but when I reassemble in the door, it seems the collar is turning slightly. Could it be that the collar is aftermarket and not making a good, tight fit?

Sun Aug 03, 2008 7:58 am

An original collar may turn slightly because of wear around the edges. This wouldn't be enough for the door handle to turn enough to open the door unless the lock assembly (the pin) is not working.

Maybe you should post some photos.

Sun Aug 03, 2008 11:04 am

Here you go Everett. Let me know what you think. I do have a rubber spacer between the collar and the exterior of the door.
Locked position from top

Locked position from side

Unlocked

Collar

Sun Aug 03, 2008 1:42 pm

Got it to work! :D
There was a small piece of metal from the casting that was blocking the cylinder from going all the way in when the handle was in place. I filed it down and now it works perfectly.
Thanks for all the help. :wink:

Sun Aug 03, 2008 2:13 pm

Weird.

I don't understand how the key turned if it wasn't moving the pin outward into the sleeve.

Sun Aug 03, 2008 7:26 pm

I think that the gasket for the church key hole fits those better than the cast plastic piece even though technically it's not correct.