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Tue Nov 28, 2006 7:24 am

Can anyone tell me how to replacement the the front heater control valve? Its location, any tips, etc. 91' Vanagon Weekender.
Thanks!

Tue Nov 28, 2006 8:24 am

I just did my '84 last weekend;
I pinched off the two heater hoses using small vise-grips and wood pieces in the jaws to flatten the hoses w/o tearing into the rubber. That stopped any flow. (just enough to run down your arm)
With the hoses out of the way you can reach the cable clip. The clip pops off from the bottom of the plastic control valve frame. The top portion of the clip fits through a slot. I sprang it off with a needle nose pliers. It is a bear to press back on with your fingers. adjust the heat to the full closed position at the valve & panel when you clip it back together.

Tue Nov 28, 2006 8:38 am

Thanks for the info. Is the valve located under the van or is it under the dash in inside near the heater box?
Thanks Again!

Tue Nov 28, 2006 8:46 am

The valve is above the spare tire. So remove the spare and look up in the tunnel above where it sat, it is on the driver's side of the tunnel in my 86.

Tue Nov 28, 2006 11:23 am

WARNING!!

Pre load your hand's with band aide's.
Have a bottle of water close by to wash out the antifreeze your going to be swallowing.

This is a real pain job to get to that valve, with both hands up in that tunnel--one to try and get the spring clamp & hose off--the other to hold the valve.

Have a good set of spring clamp pliers--this is a absolute must--
It'll make the job a little easier anyway.

Tue Nov 28, 2006 11:57 am

I stuck a BRAND NEW valve in last year. It is adjusted correctly. The heater still bleeds heat. Whether that is engine / radiator hot air coming through or heat bleeding past the valve, I don't know.

You are now warned!

Tue Nov 28, 2006 12:42 pm

I put an auxilairy shut-off valve in when I replaced mine. That way I can shut the heat off in the summer with no leakage.

Tue Nov 28, 2006 9:27 pm

For some crazy reason your right, the new valves do leak ----

An auxillary valve is just about the only way to stop the coolant from getting to the heater core.

Wed Nov 29, 2006 7:12 am

they don't leak, they always bleed by some coolant by design. but it's supposed to be only a very small stream, to allow trapped air to return to the engine, and not gather near the core.
blow thru the shut off new one, it'll sssssssssssssss a little bit.

an AUX heat valve will stop flow of hot coolant, but may trap air..
much of the heat comes from the front tin, and radiator..

I'm considering making a duct/heat shield to divert rad air down and allow a cool air stream between the rad and the front sheet metal.. think landrover double roof (or catalytic heatshield)

Wed Nov 29, 2006 8:05 am

Terry Kay;
Thanks for making me spit coffee through my nose! You're SO right about 'pre-loading' bandaids. When you're old as I am the healing is slow.

Wed Nov 29, 2006 9:10 am

<<<they don't leak, they always bleed by some coolant by design.>>

Well here ya go--
They don't leak,but are supposed to by design.
I see.
They don't but they do.
I understand the whole heater valve shut off theory much better now.

<< but it's supposed to be only a very small stream, to allow trapped air to return to the engine,>>

Ah Ha !

What trapped Air?
There isn't supposed to be any air in the system---so what air are you bleeding back to the engine pray tell?

<<blow thru the shut off new one, it'll sssssssssssssss a little bit. >>

I can't muster up the steam to be blowing 10--12 pounds of pressure through that valve--the cooling system can--I ain't no air pump--

Look at the ball inside that valve--see that relief cut?

The coolant will blow right passed it and supply the heater core with hot coolant--
Not a lot, as if was open, but enough to sure put out heat through the heater vents.

An auxillary valve is the only postive way to shut it completly off.
Funny thing is auxillary heater valves have been used on internal combustion engines in vehcles for 90 some years.
No problems with any of them holding air except in a VW product.
That's odd---

<<an AUX heat valve will stop flow of hot coolant, but may trap air..>>

Here is that air thing again---What Air?
The cooling sysyem ain't no ballon--it doesn't need any air in it--shouldn't have any air in it.
If you do, take a break and bleed your cooling sytem real good.

<<much of the heat comes from the front tin, and radiator.>>

Some of the heat does radiate off the radiator.
Quick fix?
Add Q-Pads inside the tunnel behind the radiator--and inside on the back side of it.
I did my whole Westy with the stuff---cuts the heat radition problem down to nothing.

<<I'm considering making a duct/heat shield to divert rad air down and allow a cool air stream between the rad and the front sheet metal..>>

There ya go--
A good project for the winter-
It'll keep you busy for awhile.
When your all done engineering this wild project, and it doesn't work--try the 1 hour exterior tunnel Q-pad treatment-- ~ 8 )-

<< think landrover>>

I Think Land Rover I think British Leland, then of the guy that put lights on the pavemnet in the Motherland ( kinda )--Joe Lucas.

The heat shield won't work---

Wed Nov 29, 2006 12:24 pm

That valve is used on lots of VAG prducts. RIght or wrong. Never an issue in my other cars.

BTW: WTF is a Q-pad? Do I go the women's section at Wal-Mart to buy those?

Wed Nov 29, 2006 2:25 pm

FYI...

I haven't done this job yet, but I recall reading that it is MUCH easier to drop the front grille and radiator first.

Then you can stand in front of the van, and just reach in easily to the valve. Otherwise, you're on your back, reaching up into that "tunnel" and cursing.

Wed Nov 29, 2006 8:11 pm

<<I haven't done this job yet, but I recall reading that it is MUCH easier to drop the front grille and radiator first.>>

Yo--Joe---
Please tell me where you might have read this--or at least send me a copy of this interesting info.

It might be easier to get to the valve--but first you'll have to snap off the radiator lower mount bolts that are in caged nuts--
Mucho fun getting the snapped off bolts outa there--and then locating two more caged nuts that you won't have laying around.

Then snapping off the AC condensor fitting's getting that outa the way---
And then having the original 60 lbs garbage filled radiator fall on your chest--

Yea--four hours later you get to the heater control valve.

Good idea--then put it all back together--and still have to bleed the cooling sytem prior to going anywhere.

You just took an hour knuckle busting, PITA job, and made it an all day PITA major project.

I'm proud of ya---go big--kill the whole day, plus splish splash I was taking an eythelene glycol bath.

Nope---

Wed Nov 29, 2006 9:27 pm

<<Thanks for making me spit coffee through my nose! You're SO right about 'pre-loading' bandaids. When you're old as I am the healing is slow.>>

Don't go drowning in your inhaled coffee now---

Your right though---it's like the older a guy gets, the thinner his skin---
I sure don't like this feature either--How do I trade myself In for a new model?-- ~ 8 )-

Wed Nov 29, 2006 9:29 pm

I have 2 '86 Westy's. One having the original heater control valve that shuts off completely, and quickly, I might add. No hot feet in the summer.
My other Westy had a heater that never completely shuts off. I started to R & R the control valve above the spare tire, but had a friend's shop complete the job. Still the same symptom: hot feet on a hot day. The cable adjustment seems to provide full travel of the arm on the valve. Time to install Terry's seasonal shut off valve. But maybe I can rig up a cable to operate it remotely, like a real car does, rather than removing the duct/cover for access.

Wed Nov 29, 2006 9:34 pm

<<BTW: WTF is a Q-pad? Do I go the women's section at Wal-Mart to buy those?>>

Yep-right next to the Q-Tips.

No--Q pads are the self adhesive , chrome heat reflective on one side, black Tar, stick on insulation pads.
Real easy to use, and deaden's sounds and insulates very well.

I filled both of my Vans cavities with them--plus insulated the radiator side of the "HUMP', floor's--etc with the stuff.
Available at any finer body shop supply.
Not cheap at all--real easy to work with, and the bottom line is the sound of silence, and a well insulated Vanagon.

Wed Nov 29, 2006 9:46 pm

<< But maybe I can rig up a cable to operate it remotely, like a real car does, rather than removing the duct/cover for access.>>

The panel take off is only a 2 second job--no big deal--BUT---
DYK that that valve could be, and has been stuck in more places than I can talk about?

I know of some guys that have stuck it up by the spare tire, back by the hoseT-Fittings, Yada, Yada ,Yada.

It's not so important where you put it--it's so it completly shuts the water flow off.

I saw a couple of messages that mentioned that other vehicles use the same valve and have no problems.

Well, Mack Trucks use a very similar plastic valve--right in front of the firewall--super easy to get to.
But for some strange reason--direct from Allentown PA. they come brand spanking new with a heater hose shut off valve on the side of the engine.

Wanna know why?

The plastic valves leak coolant to the heater cores.

Huh-----

Tue Aug 26, 2008 8:53 pm

hey guys I just got avery nice and inexpensive valve at LOWES I do want to instal it behind the cover under the Radio.
But I'll like to know if it will make a difference wich hose do I put it on

Thu Aug 28, 2008 8:12 am

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