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Tue Feb 25, 2003 2:53 pm

Hello i cut out some metal from my 66 bus right below seam line behind front bumper cut out a section can i spray something inside to stop rust behind there where you cant get to?Before i patch a piece of metal back in the space?thanks chris..

Tue Feb 25, 2003 5:35 pm

I don't have a bus so I can't picture the area you're talking about but I have fought my share of rust so maybe this will be helpful...

If you can wire brush it, try that and put Extend or POR 15 on it. If it will get hot from welding and is inside a closed area that you can't get to after the welding, forget about the Extend or POR 15 and order a bottle of Picklex-20 (have to order online from the mfr). Amazing stuff. Spray that on the cleaned metal. It won't stabilize rust but it will stop rust from starting on cleaned bare metal as long as it doesn't get washed off. Be sure to use seam sealer if water can get in there after your repairs are done. Good luck.
Chris
JHC/IHC

Tue Feb 25, 2003 6:31 pm

Thanks for advise im not sure there is a way to clean off rust unless body was dipped its just kinda like a closed tube or something but i will try to find some picklex-20 for my bare metal spots..thanks chris

Tue Feb 25, 2003 8:56 pm

I am restoring my 66 bus and I have had that thought also on rockers, inside doglegs, etc. Here is what I was thinking of doing: Getting a 1/4" clear flex tubing about 10 feet long. Get a can of por 15 and draw por-15 up into the tube to fill it up. Then hook my compressor at low PSI to the non-business end of the tube and blast away after sticking the tube in the access holes or drain areas. Then putting a catch or drip container under to catch all the access. My thinking is this will completely coat the inside of my rockers and the lap seam at the bottom. Then I will use por patch seam sealer to seal up the whole seam (but not the drain holes. I will have to test it into a box to find the right psi to get it to spray or sputter instead of simply squirting out. I am thinking maybe 35 psi to start.

Wed Feb 26, 2003 6:39 am

That might work i mean we all know there has to be some rust right below the seam line behind the front bumper on the inside its just a pocket for rust it has to be eating away at the bus even if you had the bus dipped for rust im not sure how good you could still treat that pocket mabye drill some holes and spray in there then weld them back up?chris

Wed Feb 26, 2003 6:38 pm

This has all been debated before. Dipping gets rid of most of the rust but also leaves NO protection inside those cavities making them more susceptible to rust in the future. Would have to go all the way with the dip stripping and have it dipped in pickling/etch and then primer. That would cost an ass load of cash.

Wed Feb 26, 2003 6:58 pm

Exactely what im saying is does nobody do anything to that front cavity when they restore there bus? seems like eventually that spot is going to end up coming through that high dollar show quality paint job..right?

Mon Mar 17, 2003 11:32 pm

Professional undercoaters have equipment with long sprayer shafts they can stick in small areas and even drill and plug holes to get inside rockers and stuff. Normally that is on new cars that are getting rubber undercoating type treatments that wouldn't be much help on rust. If those guys also perform services on restoration projects that equipment would come in handy. What about a pump up yard spayer with a quart of Por 15 dumped into it, pressurized and squirted inside these areas...and heavy til it's dripping out? The idea of all the body work I have been doing on my 66 bus being for nothing after a few years because the un-reachable rust continues it's evil chore, keeps me up at night.
Somebody must have experience with this. I think the Europeans use that wax-oil stuff to fight it.

Let's get some more going on this one. It will keep our babys looking nicer longer.

Doug

Tue Mar 18, 2003 7:53 am

I remember a company called Ziebart that was big in the 70's and 80's and used to drill holes in new cars and spray this black thick sweet-smelling stuff in to rustproof them. Now that cars don't seem to rust any more they have disappeared. What did they use?

Tue Mar 18, 2003 3:36 pm

Go to a garden shop, or lowes, or home depot and browse their garden section. If you look at those hand pumped pressure sprayers you will notice they come with special little tips. Not sure if you can buy them seperate? Find one that comes with one that will spray in a 360 degree pattern. You will prolly have to buy the whole dange sprayer like I did just for one little tip! But its only like 20-50 bucks. Take that tip and get some plastic tubing to mate with it. Rig this up in a special redneck fashion :) Duct tape comes in handy for this and not that sissy DUCK brand the real contractor grade that onnce its on it doesnt come off! Now take a jug something like a big jug used to hold antifreeze. Empty the container and clean it out good. Take the lid from this container and feed the other end of that plastic tubing into it by drilling a hole and just fishing it through. Drill another hole in the same lid. Not to big, just big enough to stuff the tip of a air blower from your compressor into it. Set your compressor at about 10-15 PSI MAX you will bust the jug if u use anymore pressure. FIll the jug with whatever rust inhibitor u fancy. Screw the lid back on. Stuff your long plastic hose down into what ever crevis u need to reach. Stick the air blower into the other hole on the lid. You will need at least 4 sets of hands to do this so now would be a good time to grab ur kid or the neighbor ;) One person operates the blower the other pulls the tube out as it sprays the inhibitor in 360 degree pattern. I havnt done this to do what you guys are trying to do but I have done it to clean out filthy duct work in houses, for that it worked like a charm! Dont see why it wouldnt work for getting down and dirty with some rocker panels.

-Xrakmare

Tue Mar 18, 2003 4:47 pm

Xrakmare i like your idea thats why i posted this thread i figure the rust is still coming until we spray somthing in there to stop it no need to do all the work if rust will be through from inside in a year...chris

Tue Mar 18, 2003 5:41 pm

But only thing im not sure about is even if you spray inside and coat it wont it still keep eating to the outside and find a way out?

Tue Mar 18, 2003 6:32 pm

I think that if u could get some of that rust converter some of these lads are talkin so highly about and spray that past first to kill of the rust then coat it u might be well off? Just a thought. All I know is if u do coat it the rust will take longer then a year to come back through. Coating it with some sort of rust inhibitor is gonna slow down its growth significantly.

-Xrakmare

Wed Mar 19, 2003 4:47 am

What about a wax type product similiar to what VW uses in all there cars. You all know the stuff, its the goop that drips out of all those cavitys whens its warm outside. My old golf and passat did it. VW really goobers it in there.

Wed Mar 19, 2003 9:41 am

Do any of you watch that show called "A car is reborn" on like TLC or discovery or DIY one of those networks. The guy is redoin a jag and he uses some wax type thing in a can. He sprays it on everything. Maybe find out what it is he uses?

-Xrak

Wed Mar 19, 2003 3:07 pm

I think you mean that brit wax oil stuff. They live by it but also have weather worse than what most of us experience (constant high humidity and low temps good part of the year so things never really dry out). I know POR 15 brags about it's ability to be applied directly to rusty metal without the need for rigorous prep work. That is why I am going to try that. I like their metal ready prep spray to neutralize the rust but I hate the fact that the directions insist on using water to rinse it off. Spraying my bare metal and rusty areas with water always seems to cause a surface rust. My understanding is that these acid type preps are not healthy to just spray and leave as the acid can continue to eat the metal and that is what we are all trying to avoid. I am thinking POR 15 with a sprayer method explained above.

Doug

Wed Mar 19, 2003 5:12 pm

I have bought some of that naval jelly that is supposed to kill rust and turn it black havent tryed it yet it also says rinse with water freaks me out seems like rust would start again if you do that..chris

Wed Mar 19, 2003 6:50 pm

If ur required to rinse someting off with water I think ur best bet is buying a gallon of distilled from the store rather then using hardwater from a well or chlorinated water from the tap... Just a thought.

-Xrakmare

Wed Mar 19, 2003 9:50 pm

I wouldn't use naval jelly to spray into difficult to reach areas. It is pretty corrosive stuff, and unless you can neutralize and remove it, it will kill the rust, and then start to damage the metal over time. The idea of spraying Permatex Extend, or Waxoyl into the hidden recesses sounds good to me.

Thu Mar 20, 2003 4:38 am

J.pickens thanks for the advise havent used any of it yet been scared to but if i do i will be sure to use on outside of body so can clean it off...chris