TheSamba.com :: View topic - master cylinder leaking in the front as suspected

Tue Feb 13, 2007 1:37 pm

(I could'nt find the original post)

So what would you guys do?

Anything wrong with using the cheaper master cylinders?

I was thinking of replacing with a cheaper version and then rebuilding the one leaking in my car, using it later when I need it.

Which rebuild kit would I need? 17 or 19 mm bore?

Tue Feb 13, 2007 1:43 pm

I have tried the rebuild kits, I will not do it again. Results that only lasted weeks if at all.

I would trust the cheaper kits before rebuilding again.

Wed Feb 14, 2007 10:47 am

Cool thanks for the heads up.

Thu Feb 15, 2007 6:16 pm

It is VW common knowledge that ANY master cylinder other than AtE or other factory OEG will not bleed, install or work. Many of us have been through this mistake. Get the real Thing... Go to OeVeeDub.com and get the correct part. Right now they have prices lower than ever on this an countless other German parts. For this part there is no substution that will work. The frustration of all the steps are a real pain. Just get an AtE and it will last for decades.... All other parts are junk and rebuild is not an option. K-mann

Thu Feb 15, 2007 7:13 pm

kubelmann wrote: It is VW common knowledge that ANY master cylinder other than AtE or other factory OEG will not bleed, install or work. Many of us have been through this mistake. Get the real Thing... Go to OeVeeDub.com and get the correct part.

Quite an endorsement - here's the direct link.

Thu Feb 15, 2007 7:21 pm

Ferretkona wrote: I have tried the rebuild kits, I will not do it again. Results that only lasted weeks if at all.

I was considering powder coating my master cyl - but it would require disassembly. Regarding the rebuild, is the problem that the parts are crap or that the act of dissassembing and reassembling is difficult and creates problems?

Ideally, I'd buy a new OEM one, disassemble it, powder coat it (requires curing in a 400 degree oven for 20 mins) then reassemble. That should prevent rust.

My other option is to POR-15 or Eastwood coat it, but it's not as good as a powder coat.

Thu Feb 15, 2007 9:42 pm

What's the best price right now?

OeVeeDub.com 89.00
thethingshop.com 85.00

http://www2.cip1.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=113611015

Braxx brand? Says good quality though.

Thu Feb 15, 2007 10:01 pm

I've rebuilt the original units with ATE parts with good success. THis includes master, disc pistons, and drum cylinders. Just be meticulously clean and if anything looks suspect (pitting in the bores) chuck it.

Fri Feb 16, 2007 6:45 pm

Here is a word to the wise...... NEVER paint any brake part. These parts where made from open grained steel to release heat. If you paint them, you seal in the heat which will defeat the design for cooling. Heat retension will lead to poor performance and premature failure.

Fri Feb 16, 2007 6:49 pm

So... just let it rust? I didn't think the master cyl generated much heat - clearly the drums do, but the master cyl?

Fri Feb 16, 2007 8:51 pm

man! the harley guy's have been fighting about this for twenty years...paint or coatings retain heat...no they dont...yes they do...! please! somewhere around this pile ive got a report that compared powder coated heads versus non and the results were marginal..call arlen ness over in the east bay, hell back me up on this im sure. my two cents...painting everything is sooo eighties!, if you got balls, chrome it and then aply some gold flake filagree...now yer pimpin daddy...

Fri Feb 16, 2007 9:35 pm

Why do anything, you can't see it.

Since they used parts from all the models available why did they not use a brake booster. My bus had one.

Sat Feb 17, 2007 4:58 pm

There is like 3-4 brands I wish I knew which was the best to worst.

Also anyone ever use those hand pump bleeders?

Worth investing in one?

Sat Feb 17, 2007 9:50 pm

FreakCitySF wrote:
Also anyone ever use those hand pump bleeders?
Worth investing in one?

Yes, best money spent.

Sat Feb 17, 2007 9:54 pm

CHROME?? (sucks) talk about retro... Purple flames and leather hand grips with long fringe. Gimme a Billy bike any day. How about leathers with your name embroidered on the jacket in nice script with yellow silk thread. Get a good German master cylinder install it and rock on.. or buy other stuff and replace it after it takes a quick dirt nap. Admittedly the master cylinder is not as prone to heat dissipation as the parts that are closer to the wheels. But then perhaps you don't drive like I do. I can make my master cylinder change color.

Sat Feb 17, 2007 10:55 pm

k-man, ian wants to make his master cylinder change colors...now tell him how! as for the bleeders..i got a micro vac and its a pile! im in a rural area and with my vintage collection i need help and there is no "shop" in sight. pressure bleeders do it best, but are huge spendy...dont have an answer but DONT waste the money on a microvac...