TheSamba.com :: View topic - Squareback Rejuvenation

Mon Aug 15, 2011 12:05 pm

MOCHABILL wrote: :roll: this post just keeps getting more confusing :?:

Well I have a confusing personally: no one has figured me out! :wink: :lol:

Mon Aug 15, 2011 12:13 pm

notchboy wrote: Sell the squareback and get a Honduh :wink:

I would sell if I could get $4,500 for her, as real ticked it up and quit. Jack does have a point I am not getting much enjoyment out of it, despite me liking to work on it. So not about money, just what is best.

Oh, and I do not like a lot of Asian stuff, especially Jap crap as they call it. Opa had a 80's Corolla that was to be my first car, but Oma did not want it to be so. Blew the head gasket.

Mon Aug 15, 2011 12:25 pm

pedro sainz wrote: JSMskater wrote: adriel-- sweet find!!!!

just gotta fix the apron and you should be set! :D

Post place Mar 11 2007

66 pages till NOW
how much $$$ have you spend :?:

:idea: here;s one for SALE good price and Running

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1162429

Actually, part of the thread got lost in the Great Crash, as bought her in October I.I.RC..

I never kept track of the money, but at the time did not care, and should not if going to be problem after problem. Plan to spend a day Thanksgiving and see if it will run. Thinking I should get a place out here for it if I want to keep it, as sitting is killing her.

If I was going to get another, have to be a rust free late sunroof Squareback.

The main reason I have not considering selling it is keeps me emotionally stable and happier than without. It is part of who I am, as grew up with her always in the picture. I remember when I was three months shy of four and Sue babysitting while Joelle was being born. I remember the times going to Sue's and it was there.

Mon Aug 15, 2011 12:33 pm

Tram wrote: pedro sainz wrote: JSMskater wrote: adriel-- sweet find!!!!

just gotta fix the apron and you should be set! :D

Post place Mar 11 2007

66 pages till NOW
how much $$$ have you spend :?:

:idea: here;s one for SALE good price and Running

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1162429

Dual carbs? :roll: Shirley, you jest.

Doubt it. Wish there was a way to have you or some other expert go though it and bless it other than mechanics, as they always screw me and cost a fortune will at it.

Wed Aug 17, 2011 5:33 pm

I guess so and so back then lived for comfort. Factory air and a gas heater still installed in a boneyard find. Appears to be all there and in the Dakotas so not rusted. I need some advice on if this car is worth $700. Of course with no pics it would be hard to advise, I know. But the left front fender needs a major fixing (sideswiped) and the one or two lenses replaced...but other than that...seems like a fair deal. Toasted interior in the Dakota sun. Any input?

Sat Apr 21, 2012 2:31 pm

I would have gotten to this sooner, but with all the makeup work from when I was out with the concussion and being an adult... Hard to find six hours to write the post. Trouble is details and days are all blurred together. So decided to make time, as a lot has happened since the last post. So, onto the update and a few pictures!

First off, this will be the last time I work on it at Jack's. I wore out my welcome thinner than butter on a hot pan. Our personalities and religion (despite having L.D.S. family) were always clashing, and surprised I even was able to bring it back for another University year, for which I am very grateful. I had to bargain, but got until the 15th at 21:00 to get it out. I have a tow vehicle so as not to spend time getting the Squareback road legal. I rather not risk Jack putting it on the street with the keys in. Just need to pay up and get a dolly, which I should have done last Summer. Not sure where I will put it, but temporarily on the street at the egg donors house. If G-d blesses me with a house, I will tow it out to Arizona. I am done renting out here, as rent is in the nine hundreds per a month with no yard for my E.S.A. dog.

Second, I have decided on keeping the Squareback, because I found out it is unsellable. In my youth and inexperience, I bought something I should not have. I got hurt by emotions, and trying to avoid that again.

Third, I was able to do some work on the Squareback, but my wheels broke down the day before I was to leave and so was unable to finish. I made sure to be up by seven and out the door by nine so as get a full day in. It is almost running, just need to address the battery then get it road legal so as can drive it.

The first task I set about was correcting the ride height. I thought I set it all right, but did not realize how much the spring rate has on tape measure results. So I got me a proper tool called an angle level. At first, I thought something had sagged. So I went though the front suspension checking for looseness, and found all my ball joint boots are now shot after about ten months! :shock: Is there a reason for this?

Once I did not find anything loose, I checked all the toques. All was good.

The next day I had the level. I wanted to be O.C.D. (for which I am truly diagnosed with) and figure out all the angles, but gave up when I found that different places on the arm would give different readings due to its taper. So what I did was rationalize and test it. I made note of the old angel comparing both sides; about the same. Then pulled out one arm, using knowledge from the Bentley to the lowering video, fiddled to find how many degrees approximately each spline is, and came up with she was down what looked to be two splines. So I raised both sides up by two inner splines, put it all right, set back on the ground, and worked the suspension a bit, and got this:

The next day I tried to get to the battery, but because of the front fender and door in the cargo area, could not get to it. So Jack and I came up with the plan of replacing the front fender and scrapping the other. Turned out to be a real pain as the wiring put up a fight and there are no instructions how to remove the antenna leaving the cable in the car. The reason I did not want to remove the cable as the routing is fantastic going though the body across and comes out again at the passenger side and did not want to damage the cable pulling it out.

Found it interesting how much dirt was behind the headlight.

Had a bit of trouble getting the fender off.

I knew the outer fender was rusty, and expected the inner, but...

I now could see inside, I decided to see how bad it was form inside out.

Yes, that is daylight! :roll: :cry:

I just cleaned this about two years ago, and look at the dirt!

I pulled the can and went at the whole area with a screw driver and ended up with some rust holes, the largest about an inch by half inch. I thought I had a picture, but do not find it... Interesting enough, the water did drain out the bottom, and it has no rust, even surface. :? I would like to get the emissions system working again, but doubt it, as this is not working. I rather pollute than purposefully damage a classic auto.

I cleaned it up best I could without any power tools or supplies, and put on the fender.

Based on the condition, do you think I should try and drive her to the Invasion? Is anyone going from San Diego or Phoenix? I felt a bit left out driving a water pumper and thought by now I have her on the road. But, I let women run my life. Not sure how not to, but have to try.

Bob, how long do you think it would take a beginner to weld in both front inner fenders and one rocker skin? I can do ugly but decent welds thanks to Jack and Gizmo loaning me a rig for a bit. Trouble is, need to get my own. I rather not have to deal with gas due to space. Or, is this not an option?

My thinking is I get more out of getting good at welding and doing metal repair than selling it and getting something else. Am I being rational?

Could it be a daily driver? It seems every time I get it going, something goes wrong... :roll:

Thanks in advance for any help!

Sat Apr 21, 2012 4:38 pm

Adriel Rowley wrote:
Bob, how long do you think it would take a beginner to weld in both front inner fenders and one rocker skin? I can do ugly but decent welds thanks to Jack and Gizmo loaning me a rig for a bit. Trouble is, need to get my own. I rather not have to deal with gas due to space. Or, is this not an option?
Thanks in advance for any help!

I prefer gas, but it can be done without. However, you need to do more grinding when used without a shielding gas.

From the pics posted, it'll take some time. It really depends on how deep you dig. Some of the spots shown are multi layers, and it takes time to correctly repair them. No matter how you look at it, rust is very expensive to repair. I stay busy most of the year just doing rust repair work for others, mostly on newer cars and trucks (less than 10 years old, but some are close to 20). The more you do it, the easier it gets. After a while you know what little short cuts you can do, and what you can't, and knock out the job. I can't really tell you how long it would take, because every job is different, and the owner may want things done a certain way. I know I would prefer it to be repaired like the factory built it, and that's what I try to do when I rebuild an area. I don't have a lot of fancy tools, but I do have an idea how these cars were built, and that helps when you need to rebuild one. If you can, try and borrow Jack's or Giz's blue Bentley, then take it to the library, and scan the reair section in the back of the book. Those factory "cut away" sections are really priceless. Granted they are for the early cars, they can be just as helpful on the later cars. I think Russ had a few pages scanned onto his web site, but I'm not 100% sure. I hope this helps.

Sat Apr 21, 2012 6:00 pm

Bobnotch wrote: Adriel Rowley wrote:
Bob, how long do you think it would take a beginner to weld in both front inner fenders and one rocker skin? I can do ugly but decent welds thanks to Jack and Gizmo loaning me a rig for a bit. Trouble is, need to get my own. I rather not have to deal with gas due to space. Or, is this not an option?
Thanks in advance for any help!

I prefer gas, but it can be done without. However, you need to do more grinding when used without a shielding gas.

From the pics posted, it'll take some time. It really depends on how deep you dig. Some of the spots shown are multi layers, and it takes time to correctly repair them. No matter how you look at it, rust is very expensive to repair. I stay busy most of the year just doing rust repair work for others, mostly on newer cars and trucks (less than 10 years old, but some are close to 20). The more you do it, the easier it gets. After a while you know what little short cuts you can do, and what you can't, and knock out the job. I can't really tell you how long it would take, because every job is different, and the owner may want things done a certain way. I know I would prefer it to be repaired like the factory built it, and that's what I try to do when I rebuild an area. I don't have a lot of fancy tools, but I do have an idea how these cars were built, and that helps when you need to rebuild one. If you can, try and borrow Jack's or Giz's blue Bentley, then take it to the library, and scan the reair section in the back of the book. Those factory "cut away" sections are really priceless. Granted they are for the early cars, they can be just as helpful on the later cars. I think Russ had a few pages scanned onto his web site, but I'm not 100% sure. I hope this helps.

Bob, it sure does! Thank you so very much! :D

I just meant rough, sorry that was not more clear. What I understand from you is that it could not be done in time for the Invasion. It also lets me know that I really need a more permanent place to make the repairs then at Jack's.

How is rust expensive when labor is cut out? I know I need a rig which is a pretty penny, clamps, and some better body working tools. I thought gas was really expensive, but if I have more cost due to purchasing more tools, and having to deal with contamination, guess better to pay to play. I really want to be rational. If you think it be better to move on, think I could do it, but be hard to be truthful.

I am not sure I can trust any old welder, as not sure they can do a good job. The only person I know is quite the craftsman, but charges craftsmen prices (think it be several grand to get all the work done). If I could get it done for less than a grand, I would seriously consider it.

I will see about getting that information. Jack is not speaking to me, but I get along with Gizmo and Pedro. Jack's manual came in very handy one time, so know that they can be used for late models.

As for layers, I have the patch panel for the other side, but has to be modified for the sunroof drain. So on the pillars, I would plan on going all the way to good metal, even if all three layers. For the rocker, just the surface skin, as the inner rocker is fine. What gauge steel is the body?

Another option is just keep it running, nothing else, like Jack's Notchback. Just feel odd driving a multi-colored pile...

Oh, and one last thing. I would not have considered saving the Squareback if it was not for your builds. I just have a feeling learning how to fabricate and weld in the future could be useful, especially being in construction and design/art. But, is it worth the cost...

Sat Apr 21, 2012 6:55 pm

I accidentally found some interesting information. I got confused when Jack said the welder he had was a M.I.G. welder and was using gas, as Joe's M.I.G. did not, and he welded a subframe on a Jetta with it. It turns out it depends on the wire used, as flux and shielded do not need gas shielding. I also found out argon/co2, 75/25% reduces splatter over pure co2, so have to consider that too. So, I could do some welding without gas, and see how it is. Then, if need be, I do not need to change rigs, but get gas.

I see M.I.G. welders are not as expensive as I thought, and could get a Lincoln kit that includes welder, helmet, and couple types of wire for about three hundred. Then about $50 for the sheet metal. Therefore, it seems it could be done for under $400 to get the work done, or half day at shop rates. So, what am I doing wrong?

Sat Apr 21, 2012 6:59 pm

Adriel Rowley wrote: I accidentally found some interesting information. I got confused when Jack said the welder he had was a M.I.G. welder and was using gas, as Joe's M.I.G. did not, and he welded a subframe on a Jetta with it. It turns out it depends on the wire used, as flux and shielded do not need gas shielding. I also found out argon/co2, 75/25% reduces splatter over pure co2, so have to consider that too. So, I could do some welding without gas, and see how it is. Then, if need be, I do not need to change rigs, but get gas.

I see M.I.G. welders are not as expensive as I thought, and could get a Lincoln kit that includes welder, helmet, and couple types of wire for about three hundred. Then about $50 for the sheet metal. Therefore, it seems it could be done for under $400 to get the work done, or half day at shop rates. So, what am I doing wrong?

Adriel, I have the Mitchell "crash guides" that body shops used for repairs on these if that will help.

Sat Apr 21, 2012 7:05 pm

Tram wrote: Adriel Rowley wrote: I accidentally found some interesting information. I got confused when Jack said the welder he had was a M.I.G. welder and was using gas, as Joe's M.I.G. did not, and he welded a subframe on a Jetta with it. It turns out it depends on the wire used, as flux and shielded do not need gas shielding. I also found out argon/co2, 75/25% reduces splatter over pure co2, so have to consider that too. So, I could do some welding without gas, and see how it is. Then, if need be, I do not need to change rigs, but get gas.

I see M.I.G. welders are not as expensive as I thought, and could get a Lincoln kit that includes welder, helmet, and couple types of wire for about three hundred. Then about $50 for the sheet metal. Therefore, it seems it could be done for under $400 to get the work done, or half day at shop rates. So, what am I doing wrong?

Adriel, I have the Mitchell "crash guides" that body shops used for repairs on these if that will help.

Danke for the offer! I do not know, as do not know what information it provides. But, if you think I could use them, then danke!

Do you think it be wise to do the repairs? I hate making big decisions, especailly when I can be emotional, despite being Germanic. :wink:

Sat Apr 21, 2012 7:07 pm

Adriel Rowley wrote: Tram wrote: Adriel Rowley wrote: I accidentally found some interesting information. I got confused when Jack said the welder he had was a M.I.G. welder and was using gas, as Joe's M.I.G. did not, and he welded a subframe on a Jetta with it. It turns out it depends on the wire used, as flux and shielded do not need gas shielding. I also found out argon/co2, 75/25% reduces splatter over pure co2, so have to consider that too. So, I could do some welding without gas, and see how it is. Then, if need be, I do not need to change rigs, but get gas.

I see M.I.G. welders are not as expensive as I thought, and could get a Lincoln kit that includes welder, helmet, and couple types of wire for about three hundred. Then about $50 for the sheet metal. Therefore, it seems it could be done for under $400 to get the work done, or half day at shop rates. So, what am I doing wrong?

Adriel, I have the Mitchell "crash guides" that body shops used for repairs on these if that will help.

Danke for the offer! I do not know, as do not know what information it provides. But, if you think I could use them, then danke!

Do you think it be wise to do the repairs? I hate making big decisions, especailly when I can be emotional, despite being Germanic. :wink:

There's an example I just posted here for another user:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5992914#5992914

Sat Apr 21, 2012 7:12 pm

Tram wrote: Adriel Rowley wrote: Tram wrote: Adriel Rowley wrote: I accidentally found some interesting information. I got confused when Jack said the welder he had was a M.I.G. welder and was using gas, as Joe's M.I.G. did not, and he welded a subframe on a Jetta with it. It turns out it depends on the wire used, as flux and shielded do not need gas shielding. I also found out argon/co2, 75/25% reduces splatter over pure co2, so have to consider that too. So, I could do some welding without gas, and see how it is. Then, if need be, I do not need to change rigs, but get gas.

I see M.I.G. welders are not as expensive as I thought, and could get a Lincoln kit that includes welder, helmet, and couple types of wire for about three hundred. Then about $50 for the sheet metal. Therefore, it seems it could be done for under $400 to get the work done, or half day at shop rates. So, what am I doing wrong?

Adriel, I have the Mitchell "crash guides" that body shops used for repairs on these if that will help.

Danke for the offer! I do not know, as do not know what information it provides. But, if you think I could use them, then danke!

Do you think it be wise to do the repairs? I hate making big decisions, especailly when I can be emotional, despite being Germanic. :wink:

There's an example I just posted here for another user:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5992914#5992914

Das wunderbar! The shop times be helpful as could multiply by four and get close to the time it would take me, and also to calculate how much a shop charge to get an idea, so as to help decide. No hurry, so take some time and feel better.

Sat Apr 21, 2012 7:14 pm

Adriel Rowley wrote:
Bob, it sure does! Thank you so very much! :D

I just meant rough, sorry that was not more clear. What I understand from you is that it could not be done in time for the Invasion. It also lets me know that I really need a more permanent place to make the repairs then at Jack's.

How is rust expensive when labor is cut out? I know I need a rig which is a pretty penny, clamps, and some better body working tools. I thought gas was really expensive, but if I have more cost due to purchasing more tools, and having to deal with contamination, guess better to pay to play. I really want to be rational. If you think it be better to move on, think I could do it, but be hard to be truthful.

I am not sure I can trust any old welder, as not sure they can do a good job. The only person I know is quite the craftsman, but charges craftsmen prices (think it be several grand to get all the work done). If I could get it done for less than a grand, I would seriously consider it.

I will see about getting that information. Jack is not speaking to me, but I get along with Gizmo and Pedro. Jack's manual came in very handy one time, so know that they can be used for late models.

As for layers, I have the patch panel for the other side, but has to be modified for the sunroof drain. So on the pillars, I would plan on going all the way to good metal, even if all three layers. For the rocker, just the surface skin, as the inner rocker is fine. What gauge steel is the body?

Another option is just keep it running, nothing else, like Jack's Notchback. Just feel odd driving a multi-colored pile...

Oh, and one last thing. I would not have considered saving the Squareback if it was not for your builds. I just have a feeling learning how to fabricate and weld in the future could be useful, especially being in construction and design/art. But, is it worth the cost...

I could have it done for the Invasion, but I'd have to spend almost everyday between now and then to have it ready to go (that includes the mechanicals). The metalwork side could be done in less than a month IF you stayed after it, but you also need more than just metal and a welder. From what I see, it needs sandblasting, the existing (that you can see) rust cut out, then the new metal pieces fitted to the cut open areas, the paint ground off around the edges, and finally some epoxy shot where you can't (or won't) be able to get to later. Then the patches welded in place, and the welds ground smooth, sealed again in epoxy, then move on to the next rusty area. Yes the outer rocker skin can go on, but the metal behind/under it is shot in the front corner, and needs to be repaired. This ALL takes time, and time IS labor (ask Tram).

When it comes to welding, you actually want a craftsman, who is also part artist. That's because you rely on both to do a good job, and sometimes fitting patch panels requires thinking outside the box, just to fit correctly. A good welder who does this, IS an artist. He can work the miracle you want, and have it not even be noticeable.

You can get away with almost any welder (machine) you want, but the better ones are easier to use. They cost a little more too. It really depends on what you're going to use the machine for. If it's just to fix this 1 car, a unit from Harbor Freight will work. If you're going to use it on several projects, or do some heavy welding (for art work), you might want to look at getting a bigger machine. Myself, I use a 20 year Snap on 115 volt mig welder. I also have a Miller Tig machine (for welding aluminum, and stainless steel). I bought the Miller, because I wanted to be able to weld other stuff, besides sheetmetal.

I kind of taught my son to weld (back when we were building his T-3 Roadster), and he's seen the kind of work I can out of my garage, and how busy I can get at times. He decided to take welding classes (at the local community college), as he was looking for a trade, and thought that it might be a good one. He's since welded up the entire exhaust system of his daily driver (yes, it's a honda), but he can also stop by here and do welding for me (when he's not doing it at his new job), and he's still going to school (getting certified in the different positions). The way I look at it, it's something you can always fall back on, and you'd be amazed at how many people need something fixed.

And just so you know, most VWs were built out of metric steel. The closest for body metal (when converted) is 22 gauge (non-galvanized).

Sat Apr 21, 2012 7:22 pm

There's no easier way to go sour on a project than setting unrealistic goals for completion. If you show up in a non- ACVW, who cares? I was planning on driving my "B.O.M.B." (big ol' Mercedes- Benz) if I was going to go, but that's out of the question now.

Given your skill level, (and I do NOT mean that as a slam) there is no way you're going to get that car done and successfully make a 2000 mile (?) maiden voyage. So why not take your time, go through the ENTIRE thing, be anal about it, and debut it in 2014? That's what I would do.

Sat Apr 21, 2012 7:49 pm

Tram wrote: There's no easier way to go sour on a project than setting unrealistic goals for completion. If you show up in a non- ACVW, who cares? I was planning on driving my "B.O.M.B." (big ol' Mercedes- Benz) if I was going to go, but that's out of the question now.

Given your skill level, (and I do NOT mean that as a slam) there is no way you're going to get that car done and successfully make a 2000 mile (?) maiden voyage. So why not take your time, go through the ENTIRE thing, be anal about it, and debut it in 2014? That's what I would do.

Yup, I totally agree. Who knows, you might have more time available, a place to work in, and the tools needed to do the job. Keep in mind, there are others out there who have been working on their projects for longer than you have (or look at the T-34 guys). Those people aren't in a hurry, because they're working full time, paying for a house AND raising kids. That takes time and money, so the project gets put on hold, or slows down. It's totally acceptable. :D

Sat Apr 21, 2012 8:36 pm

Bobnotch wrote: Adriel Rowley wrote:
Bob, it sure does! Thank you so very much! :D

I just meant rough, sorry that was not more clear. What I understand from you is that it could not be done in time for the Invasion. It also lets me know that I really need a more permanent place to make the repairs then at Jack's.

How is rust expensive when labor is cut out? I know I need a rig which is a pretty penny, clamps, and some better body working tools. I thought gas was really expensive, but if I have more cost due to purchasing more tools, and having to deal with contamination, guess better to pay to play. I really want to be rational. If you think it be better to move on, think I could do it, but be hard to be truthful.

I am not sure I can trust any old welder, as not sure they can do a good job. The only person I know is quite the craftsman, but charges craftsmen prices (think it be several grand to get all the work done). If I could get it done for less than a grand, I would seriously consider it.

I will see about getting that information. Jack is not speaking to me, but I get along with Gizmo and Pedro. Jack's manual came in very handy one time, so know that they can be used for late models.

As for layers, I have the patch panel for the other side, but has to be modified for the sunroof drain. So on the pillars, I would plan on going all the way to good metal, even if all three layers. For the rocker, just the surface skin, as the inner rocker is fine. What gauge steel is the body?

Another option is just keep it running, nothing else, like Jack's Notchback. Just feel odd driving a multi-colored pile...

Oh, and one last thing. I would not have considered saving the Squareback if it was not for your builds. I just have a feeling learning how to fabricate and weld in the future could be useful, especially being in construction and design/art. But, is it worth the cost...

I could have it done for the Invasion, but I'd have to spend almost everyday between now and then to have it ready to go (that includes the mechanicals). The metalwork side could be done in less than a month IF you stayed after it, but you also need more than just metal and a welder. From what I see, it needs sandblasting, the existing (that you can see) rust cut out, then the new metal pieces fitted to the cut open areas, the paint ground off around the edges, and finally some epoxy shot where you can't (or won't) be able to get to later. Then the patches welded in place, and the welds ground smooth, sealed again in epoxy, then move on to the next rusty area. Yes the outer rocker skin can go on, but the metal behind/under it is shot in the front corner, and needs to be repaired. This ALL takes time, and time IS labor (ask Tram).

When it comes to welding, you actually want a craftsman, who is also part artist. That's because you rely on both to do a good job, and sometimes fitting patch panels requires thinking outside the box, just to fit correctly. A good welder who does this, IS an artist. He can work the miracle you want, and have it not even be noticeable.

You can get away with almost any welder (machine) you want, but the better ones are easier to use. They cost a little more too. It really depends on what you're going to use the machine for. If it's just to fix this 1 car, a unit from Harbor Freight will work. If you're going to use it on several projects, or do some heavy welding (for art work), you might want to look at getting a bigger machine. Myself, I use a 20 year Snap on 115 volt mig welder. I also have a Miller Tig machine (for welding aluminum, and stainless steel). I bought the Miller, because I wanted to be able to weld other stuff, besides sheetmetal.

I kind of taught my son to weld (back when we were building his T-3 Roadster), and he's seen the kind of work I can out of my garage, and how busy I can get at times. He decided to take welding classes (at the local community college), as he was looking for a trade, and thought that it might be a good one. He's since welded up the entire exhaust system of his daily driver (yes, it's a honda), but he can also stop by here and do welding for me (when he's not doing it at his new job), and he's still going to school (getting certified in the different positions). The way I look at it, it's something you can always fall back on, and you'd be amazed at how many people need something fixed.

And just so you know, most VWs were built out of metric steel. The closest for body metal (when converted) is 22 gauge (non-galvanized).

Bob, thank you so much for the help! :D You have a lot of good points! I am so lucky to have you all!

The mechanics scares me more than electrical, as I rebuilt the engine myself. If I did not have to go through the desert, be way less scared. If I knew I could caravan, then I get it out there, especially with so many experts.

For primer and paint, I have had fairly decent results with self-etching rattle can, then high build. But, good point about the epoxy. I did try and find that in a can in Comufonia without su

Ope, someone is at the door, and just bet it is the neighbor child with his dog. Yep, it was, and wanted to take a walk, but too late, so he asked for ice cream. So we two had some together while the dogs hung out. He is a poor kid, so sweeties are a luxury.

But without success. Supposedly there is an industrial supply place near by that has it. I really like using aerosol with grip attachment as do not have to get a gun and buy full cans that might dry out.

I do have a H.F. sand blaster and sand from years ago, but would have to recall where I stashed it. Why is sandblasting not enough, and grinding is required? I thought it just had to be bare metal? That was what I did for the fresh air box weld (half done).

I do have a sander, but a bit large. I did also forget about a cutting tool. What would you recommend? Is there one that do both the grinding and cutting? Rough cost?

I did not know the second skin in was also gone. I do have both rockers, but the rear portion is shot. I almost tossed them, but saved them for the skins. So, might be best and tackle the front passenger fender with the rocker lying beside the auto, and decide the best plan for cutting/patching depending on material left on both parts. I could then see what I am really up against. I would then think the pillar be first to weld in, as then both ends of the rocker have something to weld to. Might even try practicing on the bad part of the rocker.

I understand there is a lot of time and labor, but willing to do it to keep a sunroof Squareback on the road. I just bet you a lot of Squarebacks with sunroofs were scrapped for this reason. I am lucky it was parked on a hill all its life so as most of the saltwater went down the front drains. I also feel still a tad guilty scrapping Gorden's, but if I use the rocker, it was for a good reason. :wink: Also, I really love welding, as there is something therapeutic.

I am both a craftsman and an artist, so therefor, am I qualified?

I was thinking about something like this: http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=gasless+m...QQ8wIwADgK From what I was reading, the cheaper ones can be frustrating, and rather have it, and if I need it again, know it will work. Sound reasonable?

Now that I think on it, the Chevy does need a door skin patch... Wonder if that make it more sell-able? :-k

I am not interested in T.I.G. as have no need, at least right now. Also requires more skill, right? I learned about T.I.G. when the steering coupler went out as I was cornering in a golf cart while going down a handicap ramp at my old job. T.I.G. welding was the only thing that could weld the frame back together. Luckily a month of chiropractic got me near normal. Some day I would like to try for the experience.

I taught myself to weld, as Jack did not have a clue. The trick I learned was being incremental and methodical about the adjustments. Seemed if I set the feed first, things worked out a bit better. I could take classes, but do not need everything they teach me, so I would get bored. I am sometimes too intelligent for my own good. :roll:

Good to know my thinking was not off about something I could have as a skill. That is why I learned how to use both types of milling machines. My Squareback engine has a part I machined for it.

I knew it was metric, and thought it was 18 or 20, but good to know it is actually 22. Do you know about what gauge attach metal is?

I remember welding galvanized requires a respirator because of the toxins it releases, but thank you for reminding me.

Hopefully this was not too long, and my tired brain made sense.

Sat Apr 21, 2012 9:01 pm

Tram wrote: There's no easier way to go sour on a project than setting unrealistic goals for completion. If you show up in a non- ACVW, who cares? I was planning on driving my "B.O.M.B." (big ol' Mercedes- Benz) if I was going to go, but that's out of the question now.

Given your skill level, (and I do NOT mean that as a slam) there is no way you're going to get that car done and successfully make a 2000 mile (?) maiden voyage. So why not take your time, go through the ENTIRE thing, be anal about it, and debut it in 2014? That's what I would do.

That is what I have been thinking. Too many things are happening too fast. I should just take it easy, and get it done when I can. I might even rebuild another engine, and learn form my mistakes (did not sleeve the lifter bores which is needed in a magnesium case with higher lift cam). I could even take it with me! :wink: :lol:

Georg, I am actually trying to find a W123 300TD. I would love to show up in that, as it is at least German. :wink: Trouble is finding one for less than $5,500 in decent shape, with maybe less than 250,000 miles. I am so done with the Mercury falling apart and getting very poor gas mileage. I want something reliable that I can work on and keep getting spares for (Mercedes is good about producing then even for the classics of the 1950's).

I actually am aware of my lack of skill, thus why I am asking for advice. Thank you though for being kind.

Sat Apr 21, 2012 9:02 pm

Finally something I know more than most on here about, welding! 8)

That Lincoln will work great, very easy to set up and use. Also a 20 gallon bottle of co2/argon is about 30 bucks,(I think it's 20 gal, I'm talking about the little ones) just get the gas and don't even dick with flux cored. The flux cored is nasty. Also i think you asked about dual sheild? Dual shield is flux cored wire with co2 shielding gas, it's like wearing a belt with suspenders.
As for tig, it takes like three times as long as mig, requires metal to be emaculately prepped and you have to run 100% argon which is expensive, not to mention the actual welders can be bigggg bucks. And having no training on how to tig weld you will only get frustrated with it. Also the harbor freight welders are shit IMHO, sorry.

I agree with bob, having a welder is so useful, fixing gates, welding your friends ricer exhausts, helping build patio furniture ect ect ect... Lots of people will be asking you to fix stuff for you if you know how to weld, it's such a useful skill. A welder is a great investment, and if you get a little better quality one it will last long and make better welds.
My .02

Sat Apr 21, 2012 9:06 pm

Bobnotch wrote: Tram wrote: There's no easier way to go sour on a project than setting unrealistic goals for completion. If you show up in a non- ACVW, who cares? I was planning on driving my "B.O.M.B." (big ol' Mercedes- Benz) if I was going to go, but that's out of the question now.

Given your skill level, (and I do NOT mean that as a slam) there is no way you're going to get that car done and successfully make a 2000 mile (?) maiden voyage. So why not take your time, go through the ENTIRE thing, be anal about it, and debut it in 2014? That's what I would do.

Yup, I totally agree. Who knows, you might have more time available, a place to work in, and the tools needed to do the job. Keep in mind, there are others out there who have been working on their projects for longer than you have (or look at the T-34 guys). Those people aren't in a hurry, because they're working full time, paying for a house AND raising kids. That takes time and money, so the project gets put on hold, or slows down. It's totally acceptable. :D

I plan on getting a job near the end of summer and not going back to University until the following summer. Which case, I would have more time, as be on a schedule. So, good point!

I have been looking at those projects every time Jack criticized me. He seemed bitter towards the end, but might have been due to the fact I wore out my welcome.

I was putting off marriage until I was done with my education and had a job, but maybe I should put it off until I am done with the Squareback. :wink: :lol: