TheSamba.com :: View topic - Squareback Rejuvenation-Terrible Smell, Like Mold, When Wet

Sun Jul 08, 2007 6:42 pm

Today I go and start up my Squareback. I start it up weekly, even if I will go no where. Checked the engine compartment, and noticed a vacuum leak. Thought it was the hose to the A.A.R., and pulled the hose: it killed the engine. :? I thought I would be able to test vacuum. Now Sie will not start, and the first try did a huge back fire. Second try, I just crank using the button, and then crank with the key all the way over. It sputtered and did a small backfire. Third try, I moved the hose clamp back onto the air filter port, and another big bang. I have all the clicks, pump primes, and runs while cranking. I am going to F.L.A.P.S. for line and hose clamps tomorrow. What did I do? How do I fix it? Oh, I am on page 28 of the F.I. sticky. :)

Mon Jul 09, 2007 10:32 am

Well, I try again to start my Squareback. As per Mr. Adney, I checked for fuel: full, wires: all in place. Tried, no start. Tightened the relays, still nothing, so I cycle the key 30 times. Crank, BANG! It was so hard, it split the muffler, and shot a piece of stuffing a good yard! :shock:
Can I please get some help? My Oma is thinking I should sell it, especially when I stated that I will wait until the local Auto Shop at the high school gets back in session (I know a man who is real good with all autos), but I am not going through that again. :(

Mon Jul 09, 2007 11:07 am

architect_7 wrote: Well, I try again to start my Squareback. As per Mr. Adney, I checked for fuel: full, wires: all in place. Tried, no start. Tightened the relays, still nothing, so I cycle the key 30 times. Crank, BANG! It was so hard, it split the muffler, and shot a piece of stuffing a good yard! :shock:
Can I please get some help? My Oma is thinking I should sell it, especially when I stated that I will wait until the local Auto Shop at the high school gets back in session (I know a man who is real good with all autos), but I am not going through that again. :(

You have one hell of a vacuum leak. Find it.

Mon Jul 09, 2007 12:14 pm

Tram, thank you a million times! :D Have you seen mufflers splitting before?

Why would it do it all of a sudden? Supposedly pulling the hose from the A.A.R. should not kill the engine. Is this true?

I am going to replace all the hoses today. Would that help? Should I hose clamp the connections? Mr. Adney stated it damaged the hoses, and should not be done.

How do I replace the line that comes into the air cleaner from the gasoline fume prevention system (front right?)?

Mon Jul 09, 2007 12:20 pm

You must have unburned gas going into that muffler, then igniting, to blow it open. Yikes!

That larger hose to the air cleaner from the charcoal tank is easy to get at once you are under the car. There is a same-size hose on the left leading fmo your fan housing elbow, so replace them both. Takes about 7-8 feet so get a long piece.

Clamps aren't needed on anything but gas lines, if the hoses are new. Clamps can cometimes let you limp farther on a leaking hose, but it will recrack soon and this is only a band-aid.

The hose from the AAR to the air cleaner is open to atmospheric pressure (well, okay, maybe a LITTLE below atm since it is in the air cleaner suction), so pulling it off should not change anything. If it does then you have something blocking your air cleaner flow, and maybe that is also screwing with the vacuum? Make sure there isn't a rag or something clogging your air intake on the air cleaner.

Mon Jul 09, 2007 12:20 pm

architect_7 wrote: Tram, thank you a million times! :D Have you seen mufflers splitting before?

Why would it do it all of a sudden? Supposedly pulling the hose from the A.A.R. should not kill the engine. Is this true?

I am going to replace all the hoses today. Would that help? Should I hose clamp the connections? Mr. Adney stated it damaged the hoses, and should not be done.

How do I replace the line that comes into the air cleaner from the gasoline fume prevention system (front right?)?

Yes, mufflers can blow apart with a huge backfire. Backfires are caused by a lot of air to very little fuel, OR timing being way off. Usually a blast that will split a muff is a vacuum leak issue.

Pulling the hose off the AAR WILL cause a vac leak- and a big one- if it's the hose that goes from the AAR to the intake throttle body.

If a vacuum hose fits snugly, you don't need clamps. Fuel hoses are a different issue.

If you have been messing with the timing to try to start it, this can be an issue as well.

The charcoal canister (fume prevention) system is not causing the vacuum leak. Get it running first and then deal with that.

Mon Jul 09, 2007 9:42 pm

Tram, I was only asking to plan. :) So, I bought 10'. I am tired (hour after I normally go), so I will do only a synopsis. Replaced all the engine lines, improved by only sputtering, but no go. Mr. Adney had me check the seating of the distributor, and it is not. Thank you all! :D

Wed Aug 01, 2007 9:50 pm

Took more photographs, thus a better introduction. I took some before these, but they are waiting to be developed.

Mr. Adney is including a couple of miscellaneous parts. Also, COFBack is giving me his old timing light for the shipping, so now I can do the job properly. Thank you all for the help, especially COFBack. :D

Now onto the show! Please, if you see something noticeably out of place, or wrong, let me know, please. This is my second Volkswagen, and I am not fully sure how everything should be. For instance, I am now wondering if the brake fluid is to low. I only noticed this later in the photograph. I will check the Bentley soon.

How do I clean the trunk liner, and get the cover for the reservoir to stand up?

How should the reservoir tray be repaired? I am saving for silicone, so this will not be a problem in the future.

Are the mirrors different, or is that me? I have looked for replacements, but I am having a hard time finding a matching set. Where am I not looking? Or could the they be restored?

Is not the beading supposed to go all the way to the end of the fender, and the start of the door?

Also, why do the wipers do not fit the windshield? The first set was 15"s, and the passenger side continued over the rubber window seal, and part of the body, and with the 13"s they do not seat the whole length.

How is the door, rocker, and finder body lines? It seems something is off.

What is the gray coating? It flakes off, and can be removed with a finger nail, revealing more gray. It is out lined in black.

Next is the white out line area. I am trying to figure how to repair it. There is no dent, but a chip. Did the factory use a skim coat for this area? Would it be best to sand to primmer and skim it again?

How do I treat the primmer areas, such as the fenders and the door (circled area)? I want to keep the original paint if I can, and also keep the price down. All I want is to know where I need to go for the future to protect it, because the restoration is going to be awhile.

This is all do to a body man not properly fixing accident damage. The apron was pushed in some, but not repaired. The seal was then exposed and rotted. This then allowed water to get in the trunk (as seen in the second photograph), and rusted the hood from inside out. I cannot find any hoods locally, so I will have to duct tape it for the winter. Plus, I am unsure how to correct the apron.

This is what happens when the sun roof leaks. It also got the bottom of the petal tin. The battery tray also has a quarter size hole also. I plan to have the holes fill welded.

Thank you for your help of keeping it on the road, and not in a carriage house. :wink: I hope to continue, even if Baby shows her age and mileage. They are trophies of the past.

Peace, and keep Type 3ing!

Thu Aug 02, 2007 12:06 am

EMPI has t1 mirrors made in Mexico that are very similar to your mirrors & work fine on my 67 square. Someone said yours are JC Whitney mirrors?

Thu Aug 02, 2007 8:38 am

No, that was someone else. All but one post about this auto is in this topic. So, E.M.P.I. , huh? Thanks, I will keep that in mind. I rather have original, but if it means getting into trouble...

Thu Aug 02, 2007 9:28 pm

Could I have some more? :wink: You know, help, please. :lol:

Fri Aug 03, 2007 7:59 am

Take the front/rear fenders off. You gotta start sometime/somewhere. Throw a tarp over it when your not working on it.

Fri Aug 03, 2007 10:34 am

Thank you Mr. Fisher, but why take off the finders? I plan on driving it, especially since it is on the street. Also, I got have a motivation for going to College, besides a distant career.

I always heard tarps were bad because they trap moisture. Plus, they can scratch the finish, and that is the last thing I want to do.

Fri Aug 03, 2007 10:59 am

architect_7 wrote: Thank you Mr. Fisher, but why take off the finders? I plan on driving it, especially since it is on the street. Also, I got have a motivation for going to College, besides a distant career.

I always heard tarps were bad because they trap moisture. Plus, they can scratch the finish, and that is the last thing I want to do.

Scratching ths finish should be the last of your concerns. You gotta plan a day that Joe and I can come over and give you hand and some moral support. Monday's work for me and mornings as well.

Fri Aug 03, 2007 4:25 pm

Are you the Jack that gave me the parts? I just now noticed your address in your avatar. If so, you made Joe happy. Plus, I could send you an electronic letter with more information.

Wow :shock: , moral support! I will take anything, but I hope it will be more than that! :wink: :D I have the basic skills, but the examples were all American. So, what is my problem is recognizing what is not normal. For instance, the emergency brake. American cars say 5 clicks to engage is correct, while mine is seven. Well, I do not know about Joe, because he still has not gotten back to me. Last I heard he was in Mexico.

The list of things I need to do:
1) Install distributor
2) Check and adjust the dwell angle and timing
3) Check engine idle and adjust if necessary
4) Install fan air boot (It is the old style, so it is stiff, and I cannot seem to get it. Plus, I am scared of tearing it.)
5) Clean and refill air filter
6) Replace activated charcoal filter hoses
7) Check transmission oil level and change if necessary
8.) Clean and repack front and rear wheel bearings
9) Check brakes and rebuild as necessary
10) Replace brake fluid
11) Adjust brakes

This is the order I was thinking of. The further down the list, the more I would like assistance. I also have an assistant teacher that was willing to help as available, plus I have use of space and a lift at the local High School auto shop. The shop does not open until August 20, so, in reality I would not able to use it until the 21 (have to schedule a time). Thus, let me know what you think of the order, and were you would want to help. The list is also in the order from doing it at home to using a lift. Oh, and if you have any idea how long it would take me, please let me know.

Sat Aug 04, 2007 12:57 am

1-7 should take about 2 hours depending how off everything else might be. Brakes and bearing repack I'd say another 2 hours. Of course this is if Joe is there. Let's plan a time and get started. jack

PS PM me so I can get the specifics of where you live, etc.....

Sat Aug 04, 2007 10:39 am

Is Joe JMSkater? If so I was gona say make sure he is there. Make it a bbq with Ron, Russ and hell invite me. You never know :wink:

Have fun and enjoy T3 overload at ibjacks.

Mon Aug 06, 2007 12:54 am

yea im Joe 8)

adriel-- i sent you a PM but might as well post here too. the first few things should take no time at all, and i have some stuff that will help us move along in the right direction. if you have unburned fuel getting into the headers, as someone above suggested, i had that problem way back when and it was the MAP sensor malfunctioning. i have spares of just about everything for a 70/71 (including ECU's if it comes to that) so i think we'll be in good shape. jack knows his stuff too, between the three of us im SURE that car can be going in a day. mondays work well for me too...

im thinking that when jack and i get there, we'll go through the beast as if we knew nothing about it, and assume nothing. that way we can make absolutely sure that we have left no stone un-turned.

best
Joe

Mon Aug 06, 2007 7:55 am

Next Monday at 8am?

Mon Aug 06, 2007 9:11 am

Joe, thank you for reading the whole post. I will respond to your P.M. also.

Interesting you call fine autos "beasts". When I drove it last, it handled way less beastly than my Focus Station Wagon. I could go in a curve at or above the warning speed, and accelerate. It would stay right in the lane, no slipping, and little or no role. Realy exilerating, and way better than one of those dreaded roler coasters.

Once I replaced the air hoses, sie cranked better than before. Now I just have to install the distributor Mr. Adney perfected, and it should be about right. According to Mr. Adney, it should be here this weekend. I do not think you will need to bring any distributors.

If you want to work that hard, cool. I will take anything I can get. Monday the 13 of August would work. The only thing is that there would be no lifts, or a parts washer.