TheSamba.com :: View topic - Squareback Rejuvenation-Terrible Smell, Like Mold, When Wet

Mon Sep 01, 2008 12:00 pm

adriel.... just buy a digi cam :roll: they aren't expensive anymore for a simple point and shoot.

Mon Sep 01, 2008 12:06 pm

JSMskater wrote: adriel.... just buy a digi cam :roll: they aren't expensive anymore for a simple point and shoot.

Dude, Joe, since when do I have any bread? :roll: :lol: I rather buy a headliner, but alas, that does not look to good.

Hey, is your Sazal battery or corded?

Mon Sep 01, 2008 12:21 pm

Got the pictures:

Are these usable? I am cleaning up, so if they are any good, how much are they worth? I have a set of cylinders, all the same condition.

I picked this up for free, for the cardboard. Trouble is the glove started to tear the board when I tried to remove it. Apparently, the heat of the roof where it was laying melted it onto it. Is there any way to pull it off?

And, here is the newest junk pile: . The wheels I need to sell, and the engine needs to be disassembled, and parts of it sold. I am going to only use a small part of the apron, and decide later what to do with the rest.

Bumpers need some work, but they are fairly strait, and for the price I got them I cannot count teeth. I will clean them with M.E.K. or old gasoline, coat with baking soda, and then rub down with aluminum foil, and they should shine. I am not sure I dig the over riders, but I am going to leave them for safety.

Mon Sep 01, 2008 12:52 pm

my sawzall is corded.

those cylinders are fubar. I'm willing to bet that crank is too.

Mon Sep 01, 2008 1:09 pm

JSMskater wrote: my sawzall is corded.

those cylinders are fubar. I'm willing to bet that crank is too.

What makes it so?

Mon Sep 01, 2008 1:25 pm

architect_7 wrote: JSMskater wrote: my sawzall is corded.

those cylinders are fubar. I'm willing to bet that crank is too.

What makes it so?

broken cooling fins, rust, corrosion.... buy new or better used...

Mon Sep 01, 2008 1:38 pm

blankmange wrote: architect_7 wrote: JSMskater wrote: my sawzall is corded.

those cylinders are fubar. I'm willing to bet that crank is too.

What makes it so?

broken cooling fins, rust, corrosion.... buy new or better used...

I got them with a load of stuff. I will drop them off at the recyling tommorow, so thank you for the quick reply! :D

What about the crank?

Mon Sep 01, 2008 4:01 pm

Hi Adriel,

I would throw away the crank too. They're not rare, they're easy to find and cheap, used or even new. Not like the bumpers, which are not remanufactured, so nice find for these.

Pierre

Mon Sep 01, 2008 4:04 pm

[quote="architect_7"]

I picked this up for free, for the cardboard. Trouble is the glove started to tear the board when I tried to remove it. Apparently, the heat of the roof where it was laying melted it onto it. Is there any way to pull it off?
quote]

I would try to cut most of it with a cutter, and then remove slowly the remaining stuff with some sanding paper...Just an idea...

Mon Sep 01, 2008 4:19 pm

Pierre G wrote: Hi Adriel,

I would throw away the crank too. They're not rare, they're easy to find and cheap, used or even new. Not like the bumpers, which are not remanufactured, so nice find for these.

Pierre

Pierre! You are back! Glad to see you! Hows the bus coming?

I use the crank for weighted stretches, plus it is a work of art. So, glad to know it is not useful for an engine.

Pierre G wrote: architect_7 wrote:

I picked this up for free, for the cardboard. Trouble is the glove started to tear the board when I tried to remove it. Apparently, the heat of the roof where it was laying melted it onto it. Is there any way to pull it off?

I would try to cut most of it with a cutter, and then remove slowly the remaining stuff with some sanding paper...Just an idea...

I like the idea of cutting it away: then I can see what is left and can see what I am doing.

Tue Sep 02, 2008 12:47 am

architect_7 wrote:

Pierre! You are back! Glad to see you! Hows the bus coming?

Yes, I'm back. I'm here almost daily, but don't post all the times...The bus is at a dead point. The resto should re-start soon I hope. The bodyman jumped on 1 or 2 other "urgent" projects and I have to wait a little. The worst part is that the T3s are waiting to go after the bus...Hope I can bring one of them there before the end of 2008 :roll: .

Pierre

Tue Sep 02, 2008 2:01 am

architect_7 wrote: Got the pictures:

Are these usable? I am cleaning up, so if they are any good, how much are they worth? I have a set of cylinders, all the same condition.

The way I see those crank and cylinder, I am really really afraid that using them will note really save to a couple of bucks in the process. The Jornals of the crank shaft are too rusted that polishing them would result onlyto a first undersize scenario, chances are, you'll install a a set of first undersize main bearings. And, as a result thereof, your case has to be rebored!

The cylinder inner wall is also roo rusted. Using a better surplus crank and cylinders may be a better idea. Or yet, brand new parts may be (although it is too costly!)

Keep us posted.

Sat Oct 04, 2008 5:58 pm

I got the Squareback to purr now. Still loud, but quieter, to the point Father did not know it was mine running! :shock: I cleaned a spare A.A.R., and installed it. Started it up, and the idle was a touch higher. Let it run till it was really warm, and adjusted the idle. The ambient temperature has gotten a frigid 70 degrees, so trying it now after sitting for four hours, the start up was a bit tougher. Had Father take a listen, and we both agreed it was way quieter, and smoother. You could also here it change its toon and get slower revolutions, to the point it was too slow. He said to adjust the idle a bit for the weather, which is minor compared to where I was when I started.

Previous to all this, I had a 20 year old ZXZ go on the Squareback. No problem, get out the tools, and the spare. Well, the had to find another jack, the hubcap was rusted on, and the lug nuts were a pain. But, I got that Goodyear on, and soon as the weight was on it, it started to sag. Within a few days it was flat. I will see about a couple of tires tomorrow, then see how she runs.

Sun Oct 05, 2008 4:59 pm

Decided to go with new 165SR15s. Not a name brand, but will do for three years. Once I got the tires on, took it for a drive. Still lacks power, and surges a tad.

I also eliminated the kidneys. I removed the sleeve from them, and used existing holes to mount it to the fan shroud. Then hose clamped the metal tubes to the sleeves. I do not have the tubes on the cylinder tin hooked up, but it saves me loosing the only clamp, and having the kidneys dangle, ready to come loose. I also have no way to hook up the fuel hose on the Driver's side, which seems to go to nowhere anyway. Added bonuses are the tubes are not as close to the exhaust, especially the Driver's side, and the rubber tubes will not keep coming off.

Sat Oct 11, 2008 6:42 pm

I almost forgot a shout-out to Russ, Tram, Joe, Jack, Mike, and all the rest who have helped along the way! I would not be at this point if it was not for you all! :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)

I had some time, and reworked the injectors. There was an extra seal that needed to be eliminated, removed the air cleaner, used a bit of petrol jelly, and wiggled them right in. There was plenty of room to get the nut on.

It is really cold now, so after adjusting the idle still a bit rough. Did its surging, but started driving it real easy. Then, after a bit, drove it hard! Drove it in first at 25-30M.P.H., flooring it all the time, even dropped the clutch once. Seemed to have more power, especially after warm. Reversed into the neighbors drive, and parked it, shifting back and forth. Defiantly better after warm, and at idle it purrs. No odd running, extra fuel, etcetera.

Sun Oct 12, 2008 2:24 pm

KROILed the distributor felt and the other moving point. See if that helps next time.

Thu Oct 16, 2008 9:43 pm

Tuesday night, Bob sparked an idea. Through this, realized something was not right... checked and the order was 1-3-4-2. So, I have been driving several hundred miles on the wrong order. I never mess with the ignition system, so I do not how it like that. Now at 1-4-3-2.

Had a few minutes, and decided to go for a quick drive. Start up was easier, but still had to adjust the idle. It sounded smoother, and quieter. Surging in first was hardly noticeable, but there was one in second. It was so smooth, and did not feel the need to drive the pedal to the floor. Shifting also seemed better. Once warm, it was a dream to drive. No need to slip the clutch in first to get it going, and no acceleration into second gear. Up a small hill, it seemed like it did not mind, and down it, it did not need gas to keep it alive. A odd noise, but better than the scream and popping before.

Then, tonight I decided to drive it again, and even got Father to agree to come. Tragedy struck when I realized the heat exchanger sleeve was missing. Shut it down, and try to fix it. I ended up using the sleeve from the fan shroud, and duct taping the other end. After driving it, cut the end off a Solo cup and used that.

While working, noticed the number three injector plug was not in the injector. :shock: Ahhh, why do these things just happen? After plugging it in, start up was easier, and ran better.

Amazingly, Father wanted to come. He has had a 1200 Bug since 1968, so I thought he would be of some use. Trouble is, he drove my Squareback only once, and that was when I had no seat belt hooks. Showed him were the belt was, then he could not figure out what to do with it! :lol: Buckled him in, and it was too loose, because my 250 pound Brother had last used it. He said just don't crash! :lol:

Right off, it shook in second, so something is a bit out. First thing I noticed was it warmed up faster, and drove real nice. I can give it a good punch off the line, but too much and it hesitates a touch. Second, hold on tight! Drove it up the steepest hill in the area, which is a real monster. I say about a 45 degree angle. Father said in the Bug it is a first gear hill... and I was in second with a bit of room to spare! :shock: :lol: First is really a better gear because it does not risk lugging the engine. Coming down, it was perfectly smooth, no need to gas it, and no popping.

Father's verdict: way smoother (before he kept insisting it was missing, and I knew it was rough), and it was too loud. I mentioned the split, and he said it seemed as if it had no muffler! :roll: :lol: Said everything seemed fine, other than that, and I could say that I am set.

Thus, the questions are what oil do you use for the distributor, and any ideas on where to get the sleeve? How about a temporary solution?

Projects that need to be done are to fasten the fuse box to the dash, grease the passenger window regulator, lube the passenger door (hardly moves, and is loud enough to hurt), and new side window rubber. There are a couple others, but they have to wait for Joe and his welder.

What size screws did Volkswagen use to attach the fuse box? What finish were they?

Fri Oct 17, 2008 6:27 am

Did you pop off the plastic caps on your door hinges?

Fri Oct 17, 2008 10:29 am

Mike Fisher wrote: Did you pop off the plastic caps on your door hinges?

mine sounds like you're opening a steel shed door. weirdly, the door handles are REALLY hard to open and the key is really hard to turn. i tried greasing the locks with graphite but didn't seem to do anything?

anybody know how to fix these items for both adriel and my sakes?!

Fri Oct 17, 2008 10:30 am

Mike Fisher wrote: Did you pop off the plastic caps on your door hinges?

A while back, so back I do not remember what I did. But, it really did not help. I heard auto transmission fluid works well, but I do not have any. I have KROIL, WD-40, and machine oil. Which would be the best of the three? There is rust in the hinge, B.T.W..