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Sun Aug 10, 2008 8:40 am

I'd be curious to know what the ZDDP amounts are in the current (SM) VR1 racing oil. The product info for it (VR-1 Racing) on their site is dated from 06'.

Tue Aug 12, 2008 8:54 pm

Read the link to Valvoline i posted previously- The bulletin is dated June '08.

Wed Aug 13, 2008 12:06 am

Yeah I saw that. I was looking for the specific amounts of ZDDP.

Wed Aug 13, 2008 5:48 pm

I have read and re read this forum... Lot's of advice and opinions... I remember my first beetle. It was 1987 I was 16. The guy that taught me how to work on it Dave Patterson told me always 30 wt Castrol, three bugs and a bus later and various other very knowledgeable VW mechanics (in Louisville KY) have always told me 30 wt Castrol. I just rebuilt my 71 std. 1600 engine at 100,000 miles. Once inside it looked great, I couldn't believe how clean it was and how little wear it had. I think with my regular 3000 mi. changes and top offs when needed and valve adjustments it would have gone another 100,000 without a rebuild and I drive a lot.

I must admit after reading all this stuff I'm all nervous about breaking in the rebuild without some kind of additive or Brad Penn break in oil.

F - IT

I'm sticking with what has worked in all seasons (in Louisville) since I was 16

Castrol 30 wt HD and regular maintenance :D

By the way, Im leaving Oct 25th to drive my 71 all the way around the world. I'll keep you posted on how the oil holds up...

Wed Aug 13, 2008 9:09 pm

I sent an e-mail to Valvoline requesting the specific amounts of ZDDP and this was their reply:

"The Valvoline VR1 Racing Oils still contain the same amounts of Zinc and Phosphorus as they always have at 1300 ppm (.130) of Zinc and 1200 ppm (.120) of Phosphorus."

Thu Aug 14, 2008 2:17 pm

OK Changed my mind... I just got off the phone with my guru (mechanic) he suggested as did the swepco rep (75 years in the business) to break in the new engine with normal big name 30 wt. oil (castrol, penzoil, valvoline whatever). It breaks the engine in quicker and better. Then switch to the oil I decide to use permanently which I have decided is going to be swepco 30 wt. I plan to watch closely and do 3000 mile changes... The swepco rep swears 6000 mile changes would be ok.

I hope this works well, I will let you know, I just ordered two cases of the swepco...

Thu Aug 14, 2008 4:19 pm

ragphoto wrote: OK Changed my mind... I just got off the phone with my guru (mechanic) he suggested as did the swepco rep (75 years in the business) to break in the new engine with normal big name 30 wt. oil (castrol, penzoil, valvoline whatever). It breaks the engine in quicker and better. Then switch to the oil I decide to use permanently which I have decided is going to be swepco 30 wt. I plan to watch closely and do 3000 mile changes... The swepco rep swears 6000 mile changes would be ok.

I hope this works well, I will let you know, I just ordered two cases of the swepco...

non-detergent 30wt oil for break-in, then after 300 miles switch to your oil of choice. Just make sure the oil has the proper ZDDP levels.

Thu Aug 14, 2008 7:43 pm

Why non detergent to start???

Thu Aug 14, 2008 7:51 pm

The detergent washes the oil off the components/parts which can be more harmful than good during break-in.

Wed Aug 27, 2008 12:57 pm

I just ordered 10w30 Brad Penn racing oil. I here its about the best.

Sat Aug 30, 2008 10:34 pm

Eastwood has a ZDDP additive, part # 50332Z for $9.99.

www.eastwood.com

Wed Sep 03, 2008 3:55 pm

20W oil is actually better for break in. The lower viscosity allows the oil to get thru the oil galleys, valvetrain and bearings easier. Back when VW was still manufacturing the air cooled cars they actually used 10W oil for break in and the first few hundred road miles. You could use that weight too if you can find it.

Wed Sep 03, 2008 3:57 pm

Brad Penn sells a "break in oil".

http://www.bradpennracing.com/Products/BIO30.html

Wed Sep 03, 2008 8:10 pm

Amsoil 10w40 Synthetic Premium Protection has 1378ppm zinc and 1265ppm phosphorus.

Not as good as Brad Penn but much more readily available.

Brad Penn is 1500ppm zinc and 1340/1400ppm phosphorus.

Thu Sep 04, 2008 5:14 am

Anyone have thought on or know anything about SWEPCO 30wt?

Fri Sep 05, 2008 1:46 pm

...found while browsing for 2008 info

Mobil1
15W-50
Boosted, higher viscosity, fully synthetic formula designed for
performance vehicles
Recommended applications: HT/HS applications & Racing and Flat tappet applications
SM
ACEA Approval: None
Phosphorus 1200 ppm.

Rotella T
Synthetic 5W40
Zinc level of 1600ppm

Thu Sep 18, 2008 7:18 am

danny6972 wrote: I just ordered 10w30 Brad Penn racing oil. I here its about the best.

i just ordered 4 cases of it too. i am planning on using in both race cars for now. seems to work great as i posted my fastest time yet last weekend.

Thu Sep 18, 2008 2:14 pm

it hasn't been referred to yet (shame shame), so here is required reading....

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?s=178c489d1c0...oil_basics

John
Aircooled.Net Inc.

Thu Sep 18, 2008 2:31 pm

wow. that is some research and knowledge there. i am afraid to start any of my cars now.

Thu Sep 18, 2008 2:39 pm

john@aircooled.net wrote: it hasn't been referred to yet (shame shame), so here is required reading....

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?s=178c489d1c0...oil_basics

John
Aircooled.Net Inc.

Well yeah that's great reading but we can't maintain a constant 212* in our acvws like water cooled engines do. Normal cruising at 65 my head temps are 325 to 375, I reach head temps near 400* at the top of some of the long grades on I-40 here in AZ while towing a trailer behind my '61 Westy. My oil temps reach 220-225 on those hills.

Will 0-30 weight maintain it's ability to lubricate properly after passing over the cyl. heads/rockers?

He mentions that at the track the water/oil temps are higher so a higher viscosity oil should be used. Does that mean we should use a higher viscosity oil due to driving at WOT while pulling long hills? :-k

Just my thoughts.

Lou