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Tue Sep 23, 2008 7:21 am

larryskydives wrote: On our Harleys, I am running MCV 20W 50 which is formulated for motorcycles and is specified/reccomended for our application. Also, by using an AMSOIL Nanofiber Oil Filter, they will warranty double the manufacturers oil change interval which lets me go 10,000 miles or one year.

It's my understanding that Harleys take a specific oil with friction modifiers for some applications that have roller/needle bearings.
Without those modifiers and the inherent "slickness" the rollers/needles slide rather than rotate in the rod/cranks.
A blanket statement that Harleys take that specific oil might not always be true.
I know you said "our" and "our application" but that doesn't prevent some from taking this as the gospel.

Fri Oct 03, 2008 2:02 pm

I live in Northern California - it can get hot sometimes - never gets too cold. I run straight 40w conventional.

Sat Oct 04, 2008 5:56 pm

You would make more horsepower and protect your motor better with 10W-30 synthetic. Just my 2 centometers.

Wed Oct 08, 2008 2:40 pm

Stuggi wrote: Anyone tried the "old-school" Castrol 20W-50 oil that comes in a metal can, like back in the day? I've thought about gettin' a can of it an trying it out, can't be much worse than the standard 10W-40 shell oil I ran before the tear down.

Turns out it costs 45 € for a 4-5 liter keg, so I'll be getting one of those some day for the keg, but I'm probably going to be running Castrols Syntetic 10W-30 or 5W-30...

Thu Oct 09, 2008 5:14 am

Quote: The exhaust catalyst found on diesel engines isn't the same as that of a typical passenger-car application, so we're able to retain high ZDDP levels. The API specification change to CJ-4 for 2007 has resulted in moderate zinc reduction from about 1,400 ppm to 1,200 ppm. And even at these slightly decreased levels, ROTELLA T 15W-40 conventional and 5W-40 synthetic still contain three to five times the amount of the desirable anti-wear additives as some current gasoline-engine oils.

I will continue using Rotella in my motorcycle, lawnmowers, and my Ghia.

Thu Oct 09, 2008 7:41 pm

Ok..waiting on arrival of new 2382 engine. Comes w/ Brad Penn for break in. I live in Nebraska and the car will only be driven in above freezing temps. Temps average around 85 in the summer w/ 100% humidity. There are a few days we hit 100 degrees and there are nights we will be in the 60's.

What oil and weight would you recommend? Price is not a factor.

Thu Oct 09, 2008 7:46 pm

matthewb1 wrote: What oil and weight would you recommend? Price is not a factor.
Glenn wrote: Or use Brad Penn 10W-30 which along with backing off my ignition timing 2 degrees reduced my oil temps by 20 degrees.

Fri Oct 10, 2008 7:08 am

I am having very good luck with SWEPCO (Southwest Petroleum Corp) straight 30... At first 3000 mile oil change since using SWEPCO, the oil was almost as clean as when I put it in. Further my Temps are staying down below 195, this also has to do with the full flow I installed. However, I am really liking the SWEPCO 30 wt...

Fri Oct 10, 2008 9:10 am

So, Brad Penn 10W30 is the best for my situation and climate? I see it is a semi-synthetic. Because of the ZDDP content, this is by far better than a Mobil 1, correct?

Fri Oct 10, 2008 9:46 am

ragphoto wrote: I am having very good luck with SWEPCO (Southwest Petroleum Corp) straight 30... At first 3000 mile oil change since using SWEPCO, the oil was almost as clean as when I put it in. Further my Temps are staying down below 195, this also has to do with the full flow I installed. However, I am really liking the SWEPCO 30 wt...

Optimum operating oil temps should be between 190ºF - 210ºF (87.77ºC - 98.88ºC), watch that temp. Do you have a thermostat valve inline with your full flow oil lines? Or is it "full flow" all the time?

Fri Oct 10, 2008 2:14 pm

Full flow all the time. Im sitting pretty around the mid 190's... Thanks

Wed Oct 15, 2008 10:26 am

matthew, if price is not a factor I would recommend an ester based pure synthetic such as Redline 10W-30 (thats what I'm familiar with and, of course, switch after your motor is broken in). That would protect your motor in the higher summer temps of 80 - 100 degrees. It's expensive but you did say price is not a factor. If you want to go conventional oil 10W-30 would be fine during cooler temps and maybe summer too but I'd keep an eye on the oil pressure. If it drops too low step up to a 10W-40, but only if conditions warrant it, in other words - hot temps. FYI, back in the day, VW used 10W oil to break in their engines. They would tell the customer to come back in ~500mi and they would change to strait 30W or 10W-30. Choice is yours, nothing wrong with BradPenn, just my 2 centavos. :)

Sat Oct 18, 2008 7:58 am

I'm rebuilding the 1776 that came in my 67 when I purchased it. I'm considering using Royal Purple break-in oil and then the 20-50 after that. My buddy uses RP in his 99 dodge 318 and he goes the recommended (by RP) 15000 and has no problems. I plan on either keeping my filter pump or going to an remote mount in the lines going to my remote cooler. Should I run the air cooled that long or change it sooner? Does the filter make enough of a difference to let it go that long?

Sat Oct 18, 2008 8:03 am

3k mile

Sat Oct 18, 2008 9:15 am

A bit unscientific but I tried some Castrol 15W40 for a thousand mile trip and my Bus ran a lot hotter than normal. I admit the timing was a little off but no more than I've driven around on before. At one point I measured 245F with a meat thermometer at a gas station highway fill-up and I was getting very worried. It was 105-108F outside.

This a stock 1500cc engine in my stock '63 Bus. No doghouse, thermostat and flaps are in place and working. Valves set to .15mm during this trip.

Sat Oct 18, 2008 11:26 am

EverettB wrote: A bit unscientific but I tried some Castrol 15W40...

That crap doesn't even smell like oil, I'd never put it in one of my engines. Have you ever compared the smell of Castrol to any other oil? I've always used Valvoline 30wt, which has never done me wrong.

Sat Oct 18, 2008 4:45 pm

What does it smell like? :shock:

Sat Oct 18, 2008 6:08 pm

Jesse67 wrote: I'm rebuilding the 1776 that came in my 67 when I purchased it. I'm considering using Royal Purple break-in oil and then the 20-50 after that.
It is a big mistake to use 20W-50 tar in a new engine. Your tight bearing gaps will not allow the thick oil to get to where it needs to be to do it's job. Accelerated wear will result. Higher oil temps too due to the cooler being bypassed.

Sat Oct 18, 2008 6:11 pm

Oil needs to flow... if it doesn't, then your causing wear.

Wed Oct 22, 2008 5:12 pm

What about 20/50 in a type 4 powered bay? outside temps range from 65 to 95 where im at.