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Mon Mar 26, 2007 7:51 am

Hello all!

A quick question. The threaded hole in the crankshaft where the pulley bolt goes into - does this narrow as it gets farther in or does it stay the same size the hole way in?

Thanks!

Mon Mar 26, 2007 7:55 am

It's not tapered, if that what you are asking.

Mon Mar 26, 2007 7:59 am

Thanks Glenn, that is what I was asking. I inherited a 1776 and when I removed the crank pulley, found that the bolt and crank threads were totally stripped out for the first 1/4"-1/2" in. A stock bolt wouldn't screw in more than a few turns before binding up, so i wanted to see what the scoop was.

Thanks again! :)

Mon Mar 26, 2007 8:13 am

M20 X 1.5 is the thread, and if needed, you can clean the threads up by either cutting a notch into a spare bolt (if the damage is minor), or get a tap from www.mscdirect.com (if the damage is major)

to get more thread engagement you can buy a slightly longer bolt from www.geneberg.com . also be sure to observe the torque recommendation for that bolt- 32 ft./lbs.

Mon Mar 26, 2007 8:15 am

Can you explain what you mean by cutting a notch in a spare bolt?

Mon Mar 26, 2007 8:19 am

Cut a groove front to back so as it cuts into the threads the waste has a place to go.

Dan... I just put a Berg crank pulley bolt on my new engine and its torques to 70ft-lbs. as per the blue Berg instructions. I also used the double bevel washers.

Mon Mar 26, 2007 8:23 am

Okay, cut down one side, correct?

Sat Mar 31, 2007 7:04 am

Glenn, when you put the berg pulley on did you use retaining compound on the crank i am afraid to use it on the crankshaft as i might not be able to remove the pulley so easily in the future, I was thinking heating the pulley in the oven and just using some oil on the pulley/crank and just locktiting the bolt.

Mon Apr 09, 2007 3:32 pm

Okay, I'm back, with another possibly dumb, question on this issue. FWIW, this is a SCAT serpentine system.

I was fooling around with the pulley and the woodruff key, and discovered that the key would only go about 3/4 of the way into the channel in the pulley. It would get hung up on what appears to be a groove in the channel. The woodruff should be able to pass all the way through the channel, correct?

Thanks!

Mon Apr 09, 2007 3:50 pm

thinkvw wrote: Glenn, when you put the berg pulley on did you use retaining compound on the crank i am afraid to use it on the crankshaft as i might not be able to remove the pulley so easily in the future, I was thinking heating the pulley in the oven and just using some oil on the pulley/crank and just locktiting the bolt.

The Berg instructions tell you to put Loctite on the crank nose before installing the pulley. Don't worry because the Loctite will release if you apply heat, should you ever need to remove the pulley in the future.

Mon Apr 09, 2007 5:36 pm

Quote: Dan... I just put a Berg crank pulley bolt on my new engine and its torques to 70ft-lbs. as per the blue Berg instructions. I also used the double bevel washers.

good choice, take care of your degree ring, as they no longer sell them, rumors have it. i wiped mine out when the preheat hose came loose and rubbed. they stopped supplying them because the rings wont stick on when applied.

berg doesnt say to use the double washer do they? i used two because i didnt want to see just one get turned inside out under the 70 foot pounds. i didnt have to buy the berg bolt cuz i had a special longer VW bolt that was used on AC pulley equipped bugs and busses. it is only 3 or 4 mm longer.

Quote: Glenn, when you put the berg pulley on did you use retaining compound on the crank i am afraid to use it on the crankshaft as i might not be able to remove the pulley so easily in the future, I was thinking heating the pulley in the oven and just using some oil on the pulley/crank and just locktiting the bolt.

dont be shy about using the strongest highest temp loctite made if you have a steel pulley like the Berg Acheiver. as loctite warms up it loses its gripping strength which must be maintained. the loctite in this application acts like a crank dowel pin for the pulley- very important, without it you can damage the key or even the crank. reasoning is this: as your engine spins at idle it speeds up and slows down with every plug firing. over time this could work the pulley loose and hammer on the key. this doesnt happen with the stock pulley because it is light.

warming the pulley in the oven will make it slide on easier but it also cures the loctite faster, so work fast. put loctite on both the pulley and the crank snout. clean the key groove in the pulley meticulously and loctite that too. i would wipe it all down with lacquer thinner before loctite goes on for the best grip strength.