TheSamba.com :: View topic

Wed May 21, 2003 10:05 pm

I tried for an hour to get the struts out of the steering knuckle. I am replacing them with new struts. I unbolted the three bolts, and got everything else off, but can't seem to pull the strut off. It's a '73 if that's important to anyone. I need help ASAP, as this is my daily driver... Thanks
-Chris

Wed May 21, 2003 11:40 pm

Big hammer... no joke...give them a bit more than a love tap.

BTW you could have just left the "3 bolts" on and just undo the one bolt on the ball joint and separate it from the control arm there...

Thu May 22, 2003 9:23 am

I've been beating it with a hammer all day. I doesn't even budge! Soaked it in WD40 over night, and today. Nothing. Even if I took off the one bolt on the ball joint, wouldn't I still have to remove it from the steering knuckle? Am I doing something wrong?

Thu May 22, 2003 10:10 am

do you have any kind of a repair manual at hand?

Thu May 22, 2003 11:56 am

DO NOT CONTINUE TO BEAT IT WITH A HAMMER!!..otherwise you will be making a trip to the junkyard for another strut..

try adding a little heat...propane torch...do not get it too hot or you will damage the metaleurgical properties of the metal..then gently tap with an insulated hammer..or place a piece of wood between a regular hammer and the strut.

this should free it...

Thu May 22, 2003 12:09 pm

alot of the big hammer thing depends on if you know where to strike it without causing damage. you won't ruin the strut or any part of it unless your a gorilla or carlessly ignorant...

Thu May 22, 2003 2:04 pm

You all r crazy if just replacing the strut unbolt top mount then with long pipe or pry bar push down on the part with the ball joint so the strut assembly comes off the top. if the bottom of the assembly with 3 bolts doesn't come off do'nt worry about it. it's just that over time the oxidation process makes the metal sweat and it will chemically bod the metals together. trust me this has happened to me almost made the same mistake of hitting it with a hammer.

Thu May 22, 2003 2:08 pm

You will have to change the struts with the assembly on the car

Thu May 22, 2003 2:33 pm

I had the same problem with my 72 SB. My solution: I also replaced the spindles. I'm sure that is not what you want to hear, especially since its your daily driver. BFY Obsolete sells used spindles. Good luck.

Pete.

Fri May 23, 2003 10:05 am

Thanks guys! I got the driver side off. It doesn't really matter if the old strut gets a little dented, I am replacing them anyways. I am putting lowered adjustible struts on.

Fri May 23, 2003 10:09 am

On which notch is the best to put the split ring, on the adjustable struts? I have P165R15 on the front. I want it as low as possible, without the tire rubbing on the fender.

Fri May 23, 2003 1:32 pm

I put that ring on the lowest ring to really slam it and my 165's rubbed hard. I went with 135's up front so I can make full turns. Plan on getting 135's. I'm sure it will look great. Good luck.

Fri May 23, 2003 4:20 pm

I was able to set it up for a 4" drop with Maxx struts and it works fine with 165's (no rubbing what so ever. I talked to John at Topline and he thought that was wierd also. If you slam it (last ring 5"plus drop) I would take 72 Marathon's advise and use 135's. Are you getting the Maxx Struts or just the standard adj. struts. Watch your rim and the bottom of the ball joint....on the 3-bolt struts (depends on drop) the bottom of the ball joint gets REAL close to the rim.

Fri May 23, 2003 6:25 pm

A 3" drop with 195/50R15 tires, anything lower will require the 135 skinny tires. The bolt, on the bottom of the ball joint (early cars) can be trimmed a small amount to clear the wheel. This problem occurs with 15" wheels with positive offset on early cars.

http://www.superbeetlesonly.com

Sat May 24, 2003 10:29 am

Thanks alot guys! I appreciate all the posts. Will be posting pics of the car soon...
-Chris