| andrethke@aol.com |
Wed Jul 30, 2003 10:02 am |
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I just finished a rebuild on my 1971 super's engine, but something's wrong. It seems like its running awfully hot and it's much louder than it used to be. The fan is spinning and the oil cooler is working (I can feel it get hot beneath the tin). I have two theories: First, I think maybe my timing is bad. I have a 009 and using a timing gun, I've set it at 10 degrees ATDC at idle. The VW manual says to set the distributor at 5 degrees BTDC. I've often wondered if I should disregard that recommendation with a 009 distributor. My other theory is that since the parts are mostly new, there is a lot of extra friction causing extra heat and noise that will hopefully subside as I break in the engine. Can anyone offer any suggestions.
Some other details that may be helpful: My new engine has Mofoco cylindar heads and a Gene Berg full-flow oil filter kit. I also installed an oil sump, so it takes about 5.5 quarts now. I installed a compu-fire point replacement kit in the distributor. It has a rebuilt stock carb and the stock oil bath air filter. The pistons and cylindars are stock 85.5.
Thanks for the help!! |
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| templarnato@hotmail.com |
Wed Jul 30, 2003 10:06 am |
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| I believe you advance timing 10 degrees above stock with a 009, so if the manual says 5 below, you should put it at 5 above. |
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| UncleBob |
Wed Jul 30, 2003 11:02 am |
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What do you mean by 'louder'? Just exhaust? A fresh motor will sound healthier than an old, tired, low compression one. But, if you're hearing metal noise, then something is up. Valves OK? How hot is hot?
009's you have to time at full advance (3000rpms) and let the idle fall wherever. You're looking for 28-32 degrees at full advance. |
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| keifernet |
Wed Jul 30, 2003 3:00 pm |
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set it like clay suggests, revved up ( hope you have a degree wheel)
it should read 8-10 degrees BTDC ( or mark to the RIGHT side of TDC) at idle
I think you may be confused on ATDC and BTDC...
both too far retarded and too far advanced timing will make an engine run hot, plus like you say the new parts/friction |
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| CJM722 |
Wed Jul 30, 2003 7:51 pm |
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Well.. this may seem dumb.. but one day i was drving home and i lost an Exaust Tip.. and it got louder.. and sounded really funny.. so i took the one that was still on till i got a replacement.. i drove it back and forth to work and by the end of the 2nd day the car was running very sloppy and hot.. i put on some new tips.. and... Presto.. a running car again..
Chris |
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| andrethke@aol.com |
Sun Aug 03, 2003 8:50 pm |
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I do have degree marks on my pulley and I timed the engine to 30 degrees at 3000 rpms, which seemed to make it run a little cooler with a little more power. It still sounds much louder than any other stock engine I've heard. Would the Mofoco heads make that much of a difference? Also, I installed an NOS muffler from Germany, but it's not a VW part. I dunno, maybe I'm just being too critical. The engine doesn't sound loud like there is a serious problem, it just sounds like a normal, healthy engine magnified. My other bug (1972) has lots of power and runs cool, but it purrs quietly (relatively, I mean we are talking about aircooled VW's here!)
My other question is how should I tune the stock carberator with a 009 distributor. If I follow the directions in the official VW manual, the idle is higher than the manual indicates, and it cannot be brought down by the large idle control screw. I can bring it down, however, by turning the small volume control screw counter-clockwise, but I'm afraid that will adversely affect my gas mileage. Should I just let it idle fast or adjust it using the small screw? Thanks everyone! |
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| keifernet |
Mon Aug 04, 2003 9:21 am |
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How many miles do you have on the rebuild???
I would say take the rocker arms off and re-torquing the 4 cylinder head stud nuts and then re adjusting the valves should have been done in the first 3-500 miles and again at around another 1,000-1500 then reuglar service intervals after that.
the studs tend to stretch and the heads can loosen up. this will eliminate if your hearing any noise form the loss of the cylinder to head surface seal.
On the carb, are you sure the screw on the throttle arm is not touching the choke cam? |
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