TheSamba.com :: View topic

Thu May 17, 2007 9:38 am

I've been looking at putting in a 3" lift for my buggy, and I noticed that the ones from Chirco and CIP1 don't necessary look the same. The one here from Chirco looks like it has supports built into the frame...

http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/product_info.p...7d6cad0b25

While the one offered by CIP1 looks like it is just open channel without any supports at the holes...

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C26%2D701%2D280

Does anyone know if there is really a difference? I want to get a sturdy kit. I know many make their own, but I just don't have the time or the resources to do that. It would be quicker for me to take an existing kit, and make the cut on each side to shorten the rails. Also, I didn't mean to pick on either of these vendors... they're just the ones that I was searching through real quick...

Thanks for the feedback anyone can provide.

Thu May 17, 2007 11:14 am

I had mine made of aluminum,but we modeled it after the CIP1 style kit that my buddy has for his project.
The main thing that we changed on my aluminum one was adding some reinforcments to make it more "squared".I used 5 or 6 inch bolts all the way through (cant remeber which) and mine is more like 2 1/2" versus 3" (do they come anyway besides 3"? Ive never seen it).
IMO though the "real" steel kit seems plenty sturdy.
Good price too.I tossed around ordering one and they were all in the $199-$220 range for the same kit.

Thu May 17, 2007 11:20 am

I'm using a store bought one on one of my buggies. I don't
remember who I bought it from, but its like the cip1 that you
showed. It's just a channel with no inside supports. I plan to
use some thick wall tubing as spacers. I'll pass the bolts threw
the body-lift-tube-lift-chassis. I think that it'll look good cause
you won't be able to see the bolt threads. I hope that makes
sence.

Thu May 17, 2007 11:39 am

My buggy will see 90% street use so I only went 1.5". Not real easy to find steel stock around close so used what I could find. Ended up with 1.5 X .125" wall. Kinda thick, but easy to weld. Damn the chassis is STIFF now :shock:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/350790.jpg

Thu May 17, 2007 11:53 am

I was just going to cut some rubber or carpet to cover the "inside" of the lift and hide my wiring.
I dont want a wall to wall carpeted floor but somthing on the "sides" could look tasteful.

Good looking lift BTW!

Thu May 17, 2007 12:29 pm

I was involved with the installation of one of the "Up Yer Bug" kits from Andy Felix. The kit was extremely well made, and it fit perfectly without modification. Something to consider.

http://manxclub.com/images/upyerbug.jpg

Lee

Thu May 17, 2007 4:52 pm

i have the one from Circo and the metal is pretty thin i added strength and support to make it stronger . i only bought it because i thought it was the same as the up yer bug
i have seen the up yer bug one and the end pieces were cast much stronger

both links you have are the same lift just differnet pictures

Thu May 17, 2007 8:56 pm

I have had the less expensive one on our buggy for over 3 years now. Have run it hard off-road without any problems. It doesn't matter if there are supports or not, as it is thin wall stuff, and would bend easy either way under load. I beefed ours up by running the bolt through some 3/4" aluminium square tubing inside the rail at each bolt hole. This way, when I torque down on the bolt, it doesn't crush the lift.

I upgraded the bolts to larger grade-8 that run all the way through to the bottom of the pan. You can also use flush nuts so they don't stick out the bottom, but I have never had a problem catching anything on them.

Fri May 18, 2007 4:59 am

Thanks a lot for all your suggestions and feedback. I'll try contacting Up Yer Bug and see what they have available.

Fri May 18, 2007 9:43 pm

I spoke to up yer bug a couple days ago. His kit has cast aluminum for the front and rear and .085 rectangle tube for the sides. $350.00 for the kit.

I will be getting one in the next couple weeks.

John

Sun May 20, 2007 1:47 pm

You also have to take into consideration that the body weighs less that 100 lbs. so the body lift doesn't have to be overkill.
Jerry...

Mon May 21, 2007 2:04 pm

I also have the cheapy thin walled crappy one too. Thought it was something different. Got it cheap, second hand unused....

I wedled it all together as one piece. it stiffened up quite a bit but i still plan on reinforcing it some as I am gonna have a roll cage. Not concerned with rollover as much as just having a more solid frame for safety reasons.
Anyway, I figure braced and all it will work. Planning on running the wiring throught it and covering up the sides with Plastic or something.

Mon May 21, 2007 2:26 pm

Great point.Mine is much stronger than it needs to be im sure.

lostinbaja wrote: You also have to take into consideration that the body weighs less that 100 lbs. so the body lift doesn't have to be overkill.
Jerry...

Mon May 21, 2007 10:44 pm

Keep in mind that your buggy body will not provide the same torsional strength to the car that the steel bug body did. This is why convertible bugs had reinforced sills on the bottom...no roof to tie it all together, just like your buggy.

A sturdy lift kit can aid in recovering some of the strength that was removed with the body. I went out of my way to get a sturdy lift kit for my car....2x3 square tubing. Here are a few pics

Weight is about 60#. 70 bucks in square tube and 250 for a guy who is a better welder than me to fab it. Front section is plate steel with sills welded above and below the header.

I may "capture" my roll cage with ears on the lift kit for the rear hoop, and am considering stealing an idea from another poster here of putting the windshield hoop cage over the top of the lift kit in front to save footwell space, which I could not do with a C channel kit.

Just another idea...everyone approaches this stuff differently, and there are a lot of good ideas in this forum.

Tue May 22, 2007 12:44 am

When I build buggies up I use an all alloy box section lift kit 3 x1-1/2'' or 2 x 1-1/2'' with a cast front yoke and put the rollbar 'feet' onto of the fiberglass lip/lift kit at the rear corner and use through bolts, makes for a strong conection to the chassis