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Sun Apr 29, 2012 5:03 pm

So I finally found a cool radio for my VW, only problem is I don't have a schematic for it? Does anybody have information about this radio? It has no visible labels or identifications on it. The seller had zero information either? The only connections on the unit are a short cable with a rectangle metal box and nine pin connectors. I have surfed the internet and found nothing. Any help will be appreciated, thanks. :?:

Sun Apr 29, 2012 5:26 pm

zuggbug wrote: Finished up the Battery Tray - not much to see, but it will hold a battery now :D

Great job saving most of the OG metal.

Sun Apr 29, 2012 5:54 pm

Grinding welds above your head is brutal.
Great job Mr. Zugg!

Sun Apr 29, 2012 11:48 pm

Not exactly today but over the past month I have gone through my whole engine from valve cover to valve cover and given it a good old fashioned tune up. I took all the tin off, cleaned of all the oil sludge, re-torqued the heads,new thicker race quality fuel lines. Replaced most of ignition system with new coil, spark plug wires, electronic ignition, rotor, cap, and spark plugs. I installed bolt on valve covers which I drilled for vents so I could put on an empi oil breather. I taped the exhaust header and built a custom external oil cooler system, which I made custom 18 gauge brackets for along with a bracket for the oil breather.

Mon Apr 30, 2012 8:29 am

Hi all,

Well, the buffing I did to the '59 Double-Door Panels original 52 year old SWR paint a few weeks ago (see page 468) inspired me to finish off the driver side. Here is a shot of it a month ago prior to finishing this side:

Here are a couple of shots inside the garage (raining outside) after finishing the job...

Man! are my arms sore! But I have a big shit-eatin' grin on my face!!!
I'll try to add better side shots later.

Bill Bowman

Mon Apr 30, 2012 8:41 am

Took it for a dip! :P

Tue May 01, 2012 12:44 am

BulliBill wrote: Hi all,

Well, the buffing I did to the '59 Double-Door Panels original 52 year old SWR paint a few weeks ago (see page 468) inspired me to finish off the driver side. Here is a shot of it a month ago prior to finishing this side:

Bill Bowman

NICE BUS! and nice job on the buff!

Tue May 01, 2012 8:29 pm

You're going to have a mess. That breather box is mounted on its side. The oil/oil mist is going to drip out. The side with the lid (on the box) must be mounted on top

Wed May 02, 2012 12:56 am

I did allot of pondering on how to mount the box and I figured that it was intended to mount lid forward that way oil can drain back in to the engine through the bottom vent, the vents are positioned so that about a cm of oil would pool in the box if positioned with the lid facing up. I have done around 400mi with it and besides a light oil mist which can be expected with an empi breather box it hasn't shown any signs of dripping or leaking. Right now I am just testing the breather box to see how I like it, if its up to snuff I plan on putting better oil lines on it and a vent on the top with a line running off to the right with a small air cleaner on it sort of like an ode to the original oil bath. Thanks for the heads up Daddybus Ill definitely use you advice to mitigate any oily situations with the breather.

Wed May 02, 2012 1:10 pm

DannoT-I don''t mean to pile-on, but why would you mount the oil cooler over the vent? I guess it is better than over the fan on the doghouse. But you are just robbing Peter to pay Paul. It would be a much better idea to mount that cooler completely outside the engine compartment in an airstream that won't be used to cool an air-cooled engine. Also, the cooler looks like possibly a 96 plate. It is possible that you are blocking airflow INTO the engine compartment as well. That isn't a good idea either. Have you noticed a rise in engine temps?

Wed May 02, 2012 1:29 pm

None so far, I have averaged a 20 degree loss in temps where my temps used to range between 220 and 250 on long trips they now range between 200 and 230. The cooler is mounted on its side which leaves a 3 inch gap at the top of the vent to allow air through. After a long drive the oil lines going in to the cooler are hot to the touch while the cooler itself and the lines coming out of it are considerably cooler. Hopefully I didn't rob Peter to bad to pay Paul, but with all things I find its trial and error :wink:

Wed May 02, 2012 3:41 pm

williamblanda wrote: zuggbug wrote: Finished up the Battery Tray - not much to see, but it will hold a battery now :D

Great job saving most of the OG metal.

Nice work Paul. I have to do the same thing on mine, my tray is still solid but I need to replace the corner metal where it's spot welded to the tray, above and below the weld is. Love to save as much og paint as possible.

Wed May 02, 2012 4:16 pm

DannoT wrote: None so far, I have averaged a 20 degree loss in temps where my temps used to range between 220 and 250 on long trips they now range between 200 and 230. The cooler is mounted on its side which leaves a 3 inch gap at the top of the vent to allow air through. After a long drive the oil lines going in to the cooler are hot to the touch while the cooler itself and the lines coming out of it are considerably cooler. Hopefully I didn't rob Peter to bad to pay Paul, but with all things I find its trial and error :wink:

Very good. I stand corrected :oops:

Wed May 02, 2012 10:11 pm

cru62 wrote: Very good. I stand corrected :oops:
My bad I didn't intend for my last post to be corrective , I'm constantly tracking engine temps and was just stating my findings for the oil cooler thus far, it's location may still cause complications down the road.

Wed May 02, 2012 10:24 pm

DannoT wrote: None so far, I have averaged a 20 degree loss in temps where my temps used to range between 220 and 250 on long trips they now range between 200 and 230. The cooler is mounted on its side which leaves a 3 inch gap at the top of the vent to allow air through. After a long drive the oil lines going in to the cooler are hot to the touch while the cooler itself and the lines coming out of it are considerably cooler. Hopefully I didn't rob Peter to bad to pay Paul, but with all things I find its trial and error :wink:
The numbers are oil temps? I wonder how did it affect head temperature?
If you are warming the air that goes into the engine compartment, does it make the heads warmer?

Wed May 02, 2012 10:35 pm

Due to a toolbox malfunction while working on the engine my infrared thermometer met its untimely demise on the garage floor :oops: so head temps have not been accounted for yet, but I haven't seen any signs of excess heat so far. Are there any neat tricks for checking head temps without specialized thermometers that any one knows of?

Thu May 03, 2012 8:20 pm

Can you get one of those little $4 oven temp guages from Walmart's kitchen gadget aisle (14b, I think it is)?

Fri May 04, 2012 6:54 am

DannoT wrote: Due to a toolbox malfunction while working on the engine my infrared thermometer met its untimely demise on the garage floor :oops: so head temps have not been accounted for yet, but I haven't seen any signs of excess heat so far. Are there any neat tricks for checking head temps without specialized thermometers that any one knows of?

I think you need a head temp guage to know the head temps. There is a sender under the spark plug.
You do need to be able to see the temps when the car is under load... while you are driving.

FWIW, I found that adding scoops over the engine louvers dropped the temp in the engine compartment by 20F (making it the same as outside temps), and the head temps dropped by 20F ... the same amount.

If you are dropping oil temps by 20F by an oil cooler over the engine louvers, then the heat goes into the engine compartment. Hmmmmm...... what is that going to do in terms of cooling the heads?

just something to think about. I would think you are robbing Peter to pay Paul.

Fri May 04, 2012 11:00 am

I swapped out the spark plugs in the daddybus. When I bought the old plugs, the counter guy wasn't familiar with NGK numbers and the guy who knew was really busy. I ended up with D8EA's which are for turbo applications (too cold). My newly installed plugs are D6EA's thanks to forum recommendations

Fri May 04, 2012 12:54 pm

Clara wrote: I think you need a head temp guage to know the head temps. There is a sender under the spark plug.
You do need to be able to see the temps when the car is under load... while you are driving.

FWIW, I found that adding scoops over the engine louvers dropped the temp in the engine compartment by 20F (making it the same as outside temps), and the head temps dropped by 20F ... the same amount.

If you are dropping oil temps by 20F by an oil cooler over the engine louvers, then the heat goes into the engine compartment. Hmmmmm...... what is that going to do in terms of cooling the heads?

just something to think about. I would think you are robbing Peter to pay Paul.
I found a similar post by you in an oil temp thread a while ago, and since my bus is already drilled for scoops I have a fiberglass scoop coming from glass action and have already made a fiberglass scoop and plan to put them on my bus as soon as I paint them.