TheSamba.com :: View topic - oil leaks- do any engines not leak?

Sun Jul 06, 2003 8:44 am

I know they don't leak- they mark their spot, but is there such a thing as an aircooled engine that doesn't leak? Does anyone have an engine that doesn't leak?
Is it pointless to try to stop evey leak- ones that aren't "bad"?

I was a jet mechanic in the Navy and all of the multi-million dollar planes leaked- especially when it was hot out. Any time planes were pulled into the hanger they had to have drip pans under them to catch the oil and hydraulic fluid. (just thought I'd relay a leaky story)

Sun Jul 06, 2003 9:08 am

Unless they have been properly rebuilt with quality seals they all leak some degree. You'll even get a little bit of a leak (a drop of a film) on the bottom of the oil filter in the best case scenario unless you overtighten the filter.

Largely the leaks come from the valve covers and the push rod tubes and this can be cured with some attention. You need covers with flak surfaces, new gaskets, a smooth flat head surface and a sealing technique (100% dry, grease and sealing products that cure hard don't solve the problem). Where possible, purchase brown viton seals. They are the higher quality used on Porches and have a longer life that the VW seals.

Oil sump plate: use a new gasket
Oil pressure switch: is it tight?
Oil cooler: new seals
Dipstick: new gaskets, boot cracked?
Oil pump: is it on tight?
Distributor: is there an o-ring on the shaft?

It can leak in other places but you'd have low compression if you did. The harder ones include where the case halves meet. If it's leaking there your case has been mishandled.

There is also a seal between the crankshaft and the flywheel called the rear main seal. Many busses leak there because the seal was installed incorrectly or they used a cheap seal. This seal is a nuisance because it means dropping the engine and removing the flywheel.

Personally, I don't like oil leaks because I prefer to use synthetic oil to ensure the life of my engine and each drop costs more on top of making a mess in someone else's driveway. Unless the PO was nice to your engine and you can get away with a little maintenance you have to watch for the leaks and fix them one by one.

Even with good seals, overfilling the engine with oil will raise the crankcase pressure enough to force it out good seals it's better to be between the lines on the stick instead of slightly above it.

Sun Jul 06, 2003 11:29 am

no oil leak= no oil! lol.
j/k

Sun Jul 06, 2003 11:11 pm

Hey, my oil leak is not normal when there is a puddle of it by the next morning :P

Sun Jul 06, 2003 11:44 pm

My motor doesn't leak and it was rebuilt in '84.
Well none of the oil hits the ground, I think it burns off faster than it leaks.
My tranny on the other hand...

Chris
74 Transporter

Mon Jul 07, 2003 8:56 am

I must be the exception to the rule. My 76 2L hasn't shown any sign of leaking yet and in just over 6000 miles I've had to add 1/3 litre. I think the motor is the strongest part of the whole damn bus.

Mon Jul 07, 2003 12:25 pm

I don't leak either. Just a drop that clings to the bottom of the oil filter.

Tue Mar 24, 2009 10:00 pm

i bought a bus that didnt leak at all! but now that i've got tearing into it i noticed it had silicone substance all over the gasket, now that i've cleaned it off and just gone to grease-coated gaskets....the famous territorial markings have arrived! Kinda miss the leak-free jerry rig

Tue Mar 24, 2009 10:26 pm

some people who have tried using elephant snot * to mate the case and as backup on seals to the case etc found they had no leaks but then they were never able to split the case again if something else when wrong. Once that stuff hardens you are in trouble. You can watch silicone or gasket cinch seep out over time and the leaks begin. I've never seen a motor that didn't lose a drop or two occasionally but the leaks should be like one drop a trip, not a puddle. Puddles mean something is wrong.

* 3M yellow heavy duty weatherstrip adhesive

Tue Mar 24, 2009 11:32 pm

mine doesn't leak as much ... hardly at all (after i fixed the oil cooler leak)

it gets wet on the left side of the engine were the valve cover is but i never left a drop no were (yet) :wink:

Tue Mar 24, 2009 11:42 pm

Cyril doesn't drip at all, though there is the light moistness on the lowest places. On a few long trips, I noticed that he doesn't burn any discernible amount either.

Tue Mar 24, 2009 11:46 pm

my 77 westy didnt leak.
and it was a GEX motor with 80k miles. :shock:
but the pushrod seals were replaces once along the way

Wed Mar 25, 2009 7:38 am

ratwell wrote: Unless they have been properly rebuilt with quality seals they all leak some degree. You'll even get a little bit of a leak (a drop of a film) on the bottom of the oil filter in the best case scenario unless you overtighten the filter.

Largely the leaks come from the valve covers and the push rod tubes and this can be cured with some attention. You need covers with flak surfaces, new gaskets, a smooth flat head surface and a sealing technique (100% dry, grease and sealing products that cure hard don't solve the problem). Where possible, purchase brown viton seals. They are the higher quality used on Porches and have a longer life that the VW seals.

Oil sump plate: use a new gasket
Oil pressure switch: is it tight?
Oil cooler: new seals
Dipstick: new gaskets, boot cracked?
Oil pump: is it on tight?
Distributor: is there an o-ring on the shaft?

It can leak in other places but you'd have low compression if you did. The harder ones include where the case halves meet. If it's leaking there your case has been mishandled.

There is also a seal between the crankshaft and the flywheel called the rear main seal. Many busses leak there because the seal was installed incorrectly or they used a cheap seal. This seal is a nuisance because it means dropping the engine and removing the flywheel.

Personally, I don't like oil leaks because I prefer to use synthetic oil to ensure the life of my engine and each drop costs more on top of making a mess in someone else's driveway. Unless the PO was nice to your engine and you can get away with a little maintenance you have to watch for the leaks and fix them one by one.

Even with good seals, overfilling the engine with oil will raise the crankcase pressure enough to force it out good seals it's better to be between the lines on the stick instead of slightly above it.

Where is the oil pressure switch?

Wed Mar 25, 2009 8:08 am

In a type 1 engine they are located just to the left of the distributor and looks like this...

http://www.germansupply.com/home/customer/product.php?productid=17033&cat=&page=1

The ones from German Supply are not supposed to leak.

Wed Mar 25, 2009 8:17 am

Mine didn't leak for probably the first year I had it, now it's a couple of drops after each run. I haven't sourced the leak yet though. :?

Wed Mar 25, 2009 9:06 am

Thanks to the nice people on this board and good suggestions, I believe my bus is now (at least, for now) leak free. It was the oil cooler seals. They were super squished and hard as rocks. I think Moses must of used them on his camel.

Sun May 03, 2009 11:12 pm

My Tram-built motor didn't leak one drop ever.

The motor I have now? I can't keep oil in it.

Mon May 04, 2009 5:30 am

Ghoti wrote: My Tram-built motor didn't leak one drop ever.

The motor I have now? I can't keep oil in it.

Veee gonna um pimp za oil leak. :lol:

Mon May 04, 2009 5:41 am

None of my engines....that I have built....have ever leaked a drop. The exceptuion is the occasional part failure (rear main or oil pressure switch). Catch those parts quick, change them and be done. Of course my engines are type 4.
You have to pay attention when building. Use the right parts and correct sealants in the right places.

The theory/myth/legend that all ACVW's leak and are supposed to is a load of sh*t....designed to cover up poor habits and laziness IMHO. Ray

Mon May 04, 2009 8:44 pm

Raby engines dont leak